Temperature control keeps going down. Replaced the Temperature probe, replaced axial fans. Contactor works but cant get no power from board to close contactor. This second board I have replaced.

I have never heard that one before, but it exists.

EXHAUST PROBE FAULT/AXIAL PROBE FAULT - This routine indicates a problem with the temperature
sensor circuit. This error will trigger an "Exhaust Probe Fault or Axial Probe Fault" condition and will go into a
Fault Mode with a brief audio indication. The dryer will run with no heat for 3 minutes. Once the 3 minutes
expire, the Phase 7 non-coin microprocessor controller (computer) will shut off ALL outputs and will remain in
Fault Mode until the dryer is addressed.

https://www.manualsdir.com/manuals/41424/american-dryer-corp-phase-722-non-coin.html?page=83

https://www.google.com/search?q=Maytag+dryer+model+MDG78.+Axial+probe+fault

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If the contactor hums I gather that it is not closing like it is supposed to. You need to put a meter on the leads to the contactor that are coming from the control board on the air handler and see what the voltage is that is coming out to the condenser unit.

Is your indoor fan running also? If not, your condenser contactor has welded shut and needs to be replaced

Hello, if the indoor blower runs nonstop a relay in the intergrated control board faulty and the whole board must be replaced, you can get tap the board to stop the blower but eventually the board will need to be replaced. If the contactor is clicking that means it is receivingpower from the indoor unit

Hello,im assumimg you are referring to the contactor coil on the oudoor unit. First you must verify if the coil is receiving 24 volts from the thermostat at the coil terminals, if not there is a problem with the low voltage circuit, possibly a a open thermostat wire or a fuse blown on the indoor control board. If ther is 24 volts at the contactor coil and it does not engages then the contactor coil must be replaced

If you just bought it, have it replaced, or repaired under warranty. If it is an old oven, replace the temp probe first (if it electric) It senses the temp inside oven, It is the least expensive part of the fix. If that doesn't work, replace thermostat/temp control board. When you replace a board, you replace the probe too. It will be needed either way. If just changing the probe works, you saved yourself some money.

Hi.


If both baking and broiling element do not heath above a certain temperature, then the part to be replaced is the temperature probe, still located inside the oven cavity.

A faulty temperature probe will keep circuit to the heating elements open, affecting both broiling and baking function.

The temperature sensor can be tested removing it from the oven cavity and reading Ohms on the sensor wires. If the circuit is open at room, then the temperature probe must be replaced.


Regards.

So only fan is running, the compressor not running okay check the voltage going to the compressor. The connection is coming from Thermostat or temperature controller, if there is supply going to A/c Comp. check the safety thermostat relay above the compressor.

If the fan starts by pushing on it, it's the fan section of the capacitor and it needs to be replaced ($30-40, do it yourself). If the fan doesn't take off when you spin it, turn off the power and follow the wires making sure they are in good shape and tightly connected. With the power to the outside unit off and the inside section on, turn the temperature inside down as low as it will go, go outside, turn on the power and use a voltmeter to verify there is 208-240 volts going INTO the main contactor and OUT OF the main contactor. If you do not have 208-240 volts coming out of the contactor (WHEN IT IS PULLED CLOSED, most units have a 5 minute delay) then it is most likely the contactor points. Turn off the power and replace it or file the points clean. Before removing anything, make a close up video or take good pictures to be used for reassembly.
If the fan has power, doesn't start by pushing it and feels warm or hot, wait an hour for it to cool off and try it again. If it still doesn't start, it's most likely a bad fan motor and needs to be replaced.
Ron

The F30 error code indicates that the electronic oven control board detects an "open" oven temperature sensor probe circuit.
This is usually caused by a failed oven temperature sensor probe.

Replacing this component will likely fix your problem.

You can order this part from www.searspartsdirect.com website.

If you replace this part yourself, be sure that you unplug the range to disconnect electrical power before accessing this component.

On some models, you can replace the probe by removing the screws that mount this component to the inside back wall of the oven.
Carefully pull the probe inside the oven cavity until you encounter the wire harness disconnect plug.
Unplug the sensor and replace it with the new one. Mount the new probe on the back wall of the oven.

On some models, you have to remove the lower back oven panel to access the sensor probe.

If you replace the probe and still have this problem, you will need to unplug the range and measure the resistance through the violet wires that plug into the control board (this is where the sensor probe circuit is connected to the control board).
If the resistance through the oven temperature sensor probe circuit is normal (about 1100 ohms at room temperature) then the electronic oven control board will need to be replaced.


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