Where is termostat on a ge 240 volt water heater

Hi LiLo

Is this unit designed to pre heat the water to a given temperature or is it On-Demand. Eg the heater turns on only when a tap is turned on?
Either way, you need to check if AC is getting to the heater by using a multimeter of a Neon Light tester.
Once you find out if it's got AC at the heater then it's a simple matter of following the AC to the actual element.
If the Element shows 240v across the element but does not heat up then the Element is open circuit and will need replacing.
If there is some control mechanism stopping the element from getting 240v then you've found the problem. The Control circuit or temperature sensor.


Good Luck

Push circuit breaker fully off and then fully ON
Test for 240 volt across top twp screws on upper thermostat.
If tank was not full of water when breaker was turned on, then upper element burned out.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html#new

Yes both elements will test for 120 volt to ground at all times... but it takes 240 volt to heat element
http://waterheatertimer.org/Element-tests-for-120-Volts.html

Gene


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If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-element.html
What is wattage rating of element?... printed on end of each element
If element is rated 3500 watt, then 15.6 is ok
4500 watt should be around 12.3
BUT you also have to test element for short to ground, as shown in link above

Gene

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Okayyyy...um, like uh, where does it leak from?? That info would be needed to suggest a fix.

1) Copy following links for detailed resources:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Review-GE-Heat-Pump-water-heater.html#error
http://waterheatertimer.org/GE-heat-pump-manuals-by-date.html

2) T2 is tank temperature sensor failure located just above upper element.
Call for service/ warranty.
Call GE 888-433-4394

3) Was water heater completely full of water before applying power.
Do you have 10 gauge wire and 30 amp breaker.
Is unit receiving 208-240 Volt power. Click breaker fully on-off.
Move wire to another same size circuit breaker.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

1) Test elements,and if elements are good, replace both thermostats
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html

2) Test across top two screws on upper thermostat for 240Volts.
If this test shows 240V, then no more voltage testing is needed.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-water-heater-thermostats-work.html#electric

3) Add comment Feb 2013 and say where you are so far

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

If your top element is bad the the lower element will never turn on be cause the top element completes the 240 circuit. It is like a resister in a circuit. Make sure top element measures out at 13 ohms.

The controls of electric water heaters are designed so that at no time are both the top and bottom heating elements energized. Nearly all electric water heaters of this capacity in the US & Canada (other places, too) operate on 240 Volts.

When the water in the tank is below the set point of the thermostat (in your case - 120 degrees), the top heating element is expected to be on - (unless there is an issue with the top thermostat or limit switch). The top most control is the "high temperature limit". It is identified by the reset button on it. Make sure this isn't tripped by depressing the button. If it clicks - it was tripped and should start to make hot water at this point. If not tripped, you should check for the presence of 240 Volts between the heating element terminal screws. Do not measure from ground to a terminal screw and believe 120 Volts is "good". To make heat, you need 240 Volts - not 120 Volts measured across the terminals - not to ground. The amount of heat created running at 120 Volts is only 1/4 of what it will do at the correct voltage.

If you don't measure 240 Volts on the top element, check the bottom element in the same manner described for the top element.

If unable to measure 240 volts on any element, either there is a problem with the power source (blown fuse or circuit breaker), high temp limit switch, or thermostat(s).

If 240 Volts is present on either heating element, and water is not warm / hot in 30 minutes or so, a defective heating element is suspect. You can change controls without draining a tank, but replacing elements will require draining the tank first. Do not power the water heater without first filling it.

You can read a very detailed "how to" article about checking water heaters here.

I hope this helps - and good luck!

un hook the incoming power lines, turn the breaker back on, and carefully measure power between the 2 hot wires, not the ground. You must have 220 to 240 volts between these 2 wires, if you dont either the breaker is bad, or the wire is broken somewhere. If you have 240 volts to the heater, with the power OFF unhook the wires from both elements and use an ohm meter to test the resistance on the elements, both should be around 30 ohms and about the same, if not one is bad. Test across the elements after re connecting them and turning the power on you must have 240 volts across the elements when they are on, if you have only 120 or 0 then the trouble is the breaker or the wire.

If the water does not heat, then you have to troubleshoot to find the problem. With a voltmeter determine if 240VAC is actually getting to the water heater. Take care here - a defective circuit breaker can give a false 240 volt reading - check for the 240 volts across the upper element (i.e. when the 240 volts has a live load on it, not just an open circuit test).
Also, remember, the upper element has priority over the lower element, and if the water is cold, the upper element will try to turn on and this locks out the lower element (only one element is allowed to heat at any given time). The lower element comes on ONLY after the upper thermostat is satisfied. Therefore if the upper heating element is burned out you will never get any hot water. If you suspect this, TURN OFF THE POWER TO THE HEATER and take a resistance check of the upper element.