At Fixya.com, our trusted experts are meticulously vetted and possess extensive experience in their respective fields. Backed by a community of knowledgeable professionals, our platform ensures that the solutions provided are thoroughly researched and validated.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Okay, here's a bunch of info in the order I would troubleshoot since the one year warranty expired.
1) The water filter might be clogged. Try just removing it to see if it makes ice. If it does change the water filter.
2) The water inlet valve might (still) be defective. The water inlet valve is an electro-mechanical valve. The coil can show good for continuity and still not let the water thru although you didn't say if it worked when he left. if recently replaced it should be under his warranty.
3) The water pressure in the house might be too low. The water inlet valve which supplies water to the ice maker is designed to work with a minimum of 20 psi of water pressure.
4) The door switch might be defective. When the freezer door is opened the freezer door switch does two things, it turns on the light in the freezer and turns off the ice maker and dispenser. If the door switch fails the dispenser will not turn on. The switch can be checked for continuity with an Ohm meter. If it doesn't have continuity it should be replaced.
5) It could be that the ice maker assembly itself is defective. The freezer temp should be between 0-5 degrees for the ice maker to cycle properly. There are several components in the control module of the ice maker that can fail and most are not sold separately. Also, ice makers have a relatively short lifespan and so it might not be worth fixing. If other, simpler parts like the water inlet valve or shut off arm have been ruled out, and the only thing left is the ice maker itself, replace it as a unit. Not as expensive as you may think...Under $100
6) The icemaker module at the front might also be defective. The module has a motor that cycles the ice ejector arms around to push the ice cubes out when the ice maker thermostat closes. It also has contacts in it for the mold heater and water inlet valve. The motor or contacts of the module can fail. Usually there are test points in the module that a service person can use to determine if there is a problem with it or one of the related ice maker components.
7) The icemaker mold thermostat might be defective. Inside the control module of the ice maker is a thermostat which monitors the temperature of the ice mold (ice tray). Once the mold reaches the proper temperature the ice maker starts a harvest cycle by ejecting the ice cubes and refilling with water. If the mold thermostat is defective the ice maker doesn't advance. The thermostat can be checked for continuity. Replace it as needed.The freezer temp should be between 0-5 degrees for optimum performance.
I can understand why, at -27C the water should be a block of ice in a hot water heater. If it is a furnace for heating a home then I would suggest replacing the batteries and if that doesn't work replace the thermostat, they are stocked in the big box stores.
Same thing happened to my GE Hybrid Geospring Water Heater. Luckily, I bought the extended service plan from Lowes. The problem is a leaking evaporator coil in the heat pump (top portion) of the water heater. Believe it or not, the evaporator coil may be freezing up due to low refrigerant levels, which triggers the filter alarm. GE knows all about this problem, and it is covered by the 10 year warranty FOR PARTS. Labor is not covered, even though this is a big defect. Unless you bought the extended warranty... You will need an HVAC service tech to fix this problem, preferably one who works for GE Appliance services. Last, but not least, owners need to report this to the Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC.GOV), as in my opinion A RECALL IS IN ORDER HERE. After all, the thought that 410A refrigerant is leaking into my home (my water heater is in our multi-purpose room) is ANYTHING BUT SAFE!
Knocking water pipes are caused by air trapped in the pipe. If the pipe only went uphill and horizontal, the air releases out of the faucet and doesn't cause a problem. But if the pipe takes a turn back down, there is an opportunity for the air to remain trapped. Try this ---. Turn on all of your hot water faucets full blast at the same time. Start with the highest faucet farthest from the hot water tank and work your way back to the one closest to the hot water tank. Count to ten, then close them in reverse order. If that doesn't clear the air, then look for a place where the pipe travels horizontally then back down. If such a place is accessible, and if the pipe is copper, buy a self-piercing tap of the type that are used to supply water to an ice maker. Install it and let some water out and hopefully some air out. If you also attach a section of clear hose you and you open the valve very slowly, you will be able to see the air bubbles in the hose. I use just such a setup on my hot-water heating system and it works like a champ.
Good luck!
To my knowledge the blades are not replacable. Some things do not go down the drain well, potatoes, carrots, mostly vegetable that when mashed will set up. You can clean your blades by putting a few ice cubes down the disposal, don't do too many at a time or the ground ice will plug the screen. If you grind up potatoes or such do just a small amout and run plenty of hot water with it.
×