Carburetor leaks - Northstar Pressure Washer 3000 PSI

For every ATV ever made in the history of ATVs??

Google

year make model remove carburetor

and you will get this

https://www.google.com/search?q=Kawasaki++Brute+remove+carburetor

..

Without know the specific engine I would say the carburetor float float valve seat is leaking. Usually a carburetor cleaning and rebuild usually fix this it leaking out the carburetor.

Now with some engines the gas tanks are two piece plastic that glue together that leaking over time and need replacing.

Either way you first must determine where the leak is.

Could be worn or sticking float valve, located in bowl of carburetor. to test turn off fuel, remove bowl from carburetor, gently raise floats all the way with finger, turn on fuel, it should not leak until released.

Inspect the fuel inlet hose closely. If you notice a wet spot around the hose where it joins the carburetor fitting, or the hose has become swollen, soft, brittle or hard, replace the fuel hose and the small fuel filter inside the carburetor fitting. Install a new worm clamp to tighten the new fuel hose to the fitting. Use a Phillips screwdriver.

Check for a fuel leak around the accelerator-pump cover assembly. Some carburetor models come equipped with a diaphragm-accelerator pump on the side of the unit. If the cover screws have come loose, fuel will leak through the diaphragm and external cover. Look for a square cover on the side of the carburetor and tighten the cover mounting screws at each corner with a Phillips screwdriver.

Look around the gasket located between the carburetor upper body and the main, or lower body. This gasket may have worn out or the carburetor upper body mounting screws may have become loose, allowing fuel to leak outside the carburetor.

Ensure the upper body mounting screws are tight, if you found a leak. If they are tight, remove the clip holding the throttle linkage to the carburetor with a pair of needle-nose pliers and reposition the linkage to the side. The linkage allows the driver to operate the throttle plates in the carburetor through a cable when depressing the accelerator pedal. Unfasten the screws holding the carburetor upper body from the main body with a ratchet, short ratchet extension and socket. Remove the old gasket and install a new one.

Inspect around the bottom of the carburetor where it joins the intake manifold if no leaks were found around the gasket located between the carburetor upper body and the main, or lower body. If you find a wet spots or marks around the bottom of the carburetor, the base plate gasket is leaking. Remove the upper and main carburetor body using a ratchet, short ratchet extension and socket. Install a new base gasket and replace the carburetor assembly.

Is the gas leaking out of the tank? Is the gas leaking from the carburetor? Where is the gas going? There have been issues related to the brass seat in some of the carburetors. The fuel leaks internaly in the carb. and "spills" over into the crankcase. This is noticeable by gas in the oil when you remove the dipstick. If this is what is happening, you would need to have the needle and seat replaced in the carburetor or replace the carburetor itself whichever is easiest. Hope this helps in some way.

If the "T" is broken the new "T" will come with o-rings to seal it into the carburetors. If the o-rings are all that is leaking, Honda only sells the o-rings in the "T" kit or in the carburetor o-ring kit (either the "T" kit or the carburetor gasket kit will probably run of minimum $50 per carburetor or more ). If all you need are the o-rings , find a dealer that stocks the K&L generic carburetor o-ring kit. You should be able to pick out the o-rings you need for about $1 each (you will need at least two up to six depending on how many tubes run between the carburetors). If you are dealing with one of Honda's tubular rubber "T"s , then you will just have to spend the cash for a new one. The procedure involves removing the carburetor rack and carefully separating the two leaking carburetors so you can insert the new "T" or replace the o-rings. If there are more tubes than just the "T", be sure you replace all the o-rings so you do not have new leaks after reassembly.

Hello,
You may have idle jet is get problem or vacuum leaks. For temporary remedy, use a carburetor cleaner to clean your carburetor and found the vacuum leaks. For complete cleaning, dissemble your carburetor and have the jets, linkages cleaned. And check hoses linked to your carburetor for leakages.

Hello Pete,

Is fuel actually leaking from the bottom of the bowl, or is leaking out the air filter and running down to the bowl?

If the former, then your bowl bolt's gasket has likely deteriorated. This would allow fuel to run down the bolt itself. Note that some carburetors will have a fuel shutoff solenoid (to the engine, not to the carburetor) that holds the bowl on, rather than a bolt. There will still be a gasket though. Turn fuel off before trying to service.

If fuel is running out from inside the carburetor (through air cleaner, etc), then you have a float / needle that is stuck. This is quite common after a small engine has been in storage and fuel was left in the carburetor. The residue causes the float to stick to the bottom. Turn the fuel off, undo the bolt that holds the bowl on, and carefully remove the carburetor bowl. Use a can of carburetor and choke cleaner to spray out the "gunk" in the bowl, spray off the float, and then reassemble. If it still leaks, then your needle seat will need to be replaced as well.