I have a 1985 Buick Riviera in very good shape with the exception of battery problems. First: A little history. The Riviera sat for several months. I went out and tried to start it. It tried but there was not enough juice to make it turn over. I called AAA. They started the car and I took it to Les Schwab where they said the battery was fine, recharged it and I drove it home. At first I went out and started it regularly, but as we were not driving it that went, unfortunately, by the wayside. Last month I tried to start it and this time it made no sound whatsoever. We have been busy so I waited until this week and called AAA again. It started right away from the outlet under the hood. (Note: The battery is under the back seat and difficult to reach). Once again I went toe Les Schwab. this time they said the battery was no longer any good and I needed a new one. I have had the vehicle three days since collecting it and it still starts, but I fear it will steadily discharge again. A friendly mechanic suggested I disconnect the battery while we are gone on vacation and then take it to a local electrical shop for diagnosis. My sister tells lme that could cost me nearly half the worth of the vehicle. I am in a quandary. MY QUESTION. What are the most likely causes of the discharge. i read one of your posts that mentioned the alternator diode and another the boot light. I did have problems with eh trunk, boot?, locking a few months ago that suddenly and inexplicably corrected itself, could that be the problem. Any other suggestions? Also, is there a good manual for this vehicle where I can do some of the checking myself under step by step instruction. Thanks. so much. Joan

SOURCE: LG Flatron monitor problem

Hi,

It is often difficult to diagnose/repair an intermittent problem. It could very well be any of the circuitry and components inside: video interface, CCF Lamp, inverter, power supply. All of which would require that you open the casing and poke around inside and that you be familiar with electronic components & circuitries, soldering and use of a continuity/volt meter.

Doing so would void your warranty (being just a couple of months). Perhaps your best bet would be to seek repair/replacement of the monitor from your dealer/supplier and describe fully the nature and frequency of the incidence. It may be that when they test it will check good.

Should you choose to open it up yourself, post back.

Good luck and kind regards.

SOURCE: Half Dead Monitor

Dear
This problem is caused by keyboard switches which are bad quality they are easy to replace, so if you are able to work with solder you can finish replacement in 15min.
Good luck.

SOURCE: screen goes black after a few seconds

Problems like these happen all the time with LCD monitors. Usually one of two things. Bad Capacitors or a bad backlight. To check this, take a flashlight and point at your monitor (usually at a high angle) and see if you can still see the desktop faintly. If so then its either the back light or capacitor. Backlights shouldnt need replaced too often as they have a extremely long lifespan. Capacitors are relatively cheap and easy to replace, all is required is a soldering iron and an inexpensive trip to a Radio Shack. Though this isnt your monitor, it is a very good tutorial on how to go about replacing the capacitors.http://www.wizardanswers.com/liquidvideorepair.html If it is the backlight, here is another tutorial for that :D http://www.inventgeek.com/Projects/shorts/lcdfix.aspx

Bud Martin

• 11361 Answers
• Posted on Jan 10, 2010

SOURCE: Monitor started with momentary blackouts 1-2

Look for bad caps, see failed monitor here: http://s807.photobucket.com/albums/yy352/budm/Viewsonic%20VX2235W/

SOURCE: Every once in a while in the last couple of months

68nighthawk, I would certainly give Lucky Goldstar a call to see if they can do something for you. They should fix this unit for free! I suspect that this could be a thermally intermittant solder connection of a electronic component to a printed circuit board. When the oxidizing gases we breath invade the fracture of the solder joint, oxidize the exposed metals, the circuit will again become "OPEN" and fail to start-up the unit. I would, from your given info, look for this thermal/vibration fracture on the units "switch-mode-power-supply" prtd circiut board. Temperature and humidity will also play a part in the GO or NO GO of this units operation. Good luck with the repair. 12fixlouie