The output voltage give 23 volts - Pyramid 10 Amp Power Supply (068888701655) Power Supply

Motorcycles are usually fitted with a permanent magnet rotor type alternator that supplies a 3 phase alternating current to a combined rectifier/regulator, the DC output of which should be sufficient to charge the battery and supply enough current to power all the ancillary equipment.

A fully charged 12 volt battery in good health has a terminal voltage of 13.2 and the output of the regulator should be in excess of that or half for six volt systems.

Some motorcycle systems can be remarkably complex so it is best to use a wiring diagram to aid understanding. Motorcycle batteries won't tolerate a sustained high rate of charge so some systems provide a reduced supply until the headlamp is switched on - just one of the many possible complications that could be encountered with motorcycle electrical systems, ballasted rear lights is another...

Check and replace damaged component/s at its horizontal scan output section circuit. Check the LOT (Line Output Transformer) too for damage. Replace the horizontal scan output transistor. Check the input voltage to LOT. If the voltage is absent check the feeder resistor; if any. If you wish to get some details; check the site linked here. Surf the site with patience. Pull up older posts.
http://electronicshelponline.blogspot.com/
Type in this key phrase " my service table today " in the search box at the top right of the display window of the home page, to get gathered some pages which has the details of practical experiences to the author of that site.

Need a little more info. To charge a battery and this goes for all batteries you must have a higher input voltage than what the batt. Is rated. For example a car battery is rated at twelve volts. To charge your battery the alternator applies about 13.4volts. So if you charger is under voltage it won't charge past the equal amount of charge in the battery. Take your charger to just about anyone with a volt meter and have the output voltage checked. Batteries Plus, auto parts store computer store, best buy geek squad in store should be able to help. Good luck, Bret

no,this is ok,because moitors are voltage based lower in voltage than other appliances w/o motors,a 230 volt motor will operate fine at +/- 10% voltage as in 230 + 23 volts higher = 253volts and visa-versa 230volts - 23 volts + 207 volts, if your losing units,have your power supplier check the incoming neutral connection to the home,then have them install a temporary power quality monitor on the line to check for "power-Spikes/Surges" especially if your near any type of commercial setting with 3 phase power as these large facilities create lots of power spikes during operation of their equipment

Hello from America Dragoljub!

I can give you a general answer. I have not worked with this specific Mustek UPS, so the answer will not be specific. However, it should be enough information to help you to fix the problem. I work daily with many UPS and this is a common problem.

I do not believe that you have an equipment problem. It looks to be a configuration problem.

This is very often because of the UPS setup. When the UPS is configured, an output voltage must be selected. It appears that your UPS is configured for USA output voltage (120 volts RMS, about 165 volts peak measurement).

I am sorry that I do not have specifics to tell you how to configure your UPS. This information should be enough to help you solve your problem, though. Consult your UPS manual and find how to re-configure your UPS for 235 volts output and you will be OK.

Good Luck, and Thank You for using FixYa!

Vic

In ordinary use conditions, the ignition coils for your Honda should last a very long time--possibly the life of the car. It's not uncommon to see Hondas with their original coils at 125,000 or 150,000 miles--or more. New coils do put out a hotter spark than older coils, but in ordinary use, even an old coil should still be firing well within Honda specifications.

If your coils are getting fried early (meaning, a lot earlier than what I just wrote), you might want to check the voltage going to them. Too high voltage will burn them out prematurely. That, in turn, could be caused by a malfunctioning voltage regulator, and that same overly high voltage could also be burning out your bulbs and headlights prematurely, as well as possibly damaging your sound system and on-board computer.

When running, your car's electrical system should not be exceeding 14.5 volts. More than a few cars are designed to max out around 14 volts. Make sure that you check output voltage at several engine speeds, such as at idle, at 2000 rpm, at 4000 rpm. You might notice some variation depending on engine speed, but a good voltage regulator will do its best to keep output voltage consistently over 13 volts. Some Honda alternators and voltage regulators are designed to cut back on output voltage at low RPMs, i.e., when idling or just bopping around town. That would tend to give you a seemingly low reading, like a battery's own 12.6 volts; it would not give you a reading that's too high.

OK, what is the input voltage? I will give you a ruff diagram here. (volt in) Vcc--sw's-on/off/IR-control board (microprocessor)---ccfl (cold cathode fluorescent lamp) inverter (changes DC voltage tow switching DC (such as on/off/on/off/on/off but at a much faster pace (20Khz)---toroidal coil (this coil will step the switch DC voltage up to about 1000 to 1500 switch DC volt, then this coil will change the orientation of the voltage to current relationship by shifting the current by 90 degree's where it lag the voltage---this process has some changes on circuit and how it works)----OK, from the ccfl inverter------voltage multiplier (all this some HV capacitors and HV diodes hook up an configuration where each stage will double the voltage that go into... EXAMPLE: 4 stage voltage multiplier for each stage now it double the voltage 1500V input to 1st stage--output to 2nd stage 3000V output to 3rd stage 6000V out put to 4th stage 12000V switching DC, they will also refer to this voltage AC voltage because AC switch to from - negative voltage to + positive voltage.


Like in you case, the two volts from the controller to ccfl. Out put volt from ccfl with be around 2.4 to 2.6 due capacitance discharge, Now this voltage will be divided in the ccfl by two input windings (I am not going to explain this). Now the two input winding will induce voltage to the secondary winding (step up). The output from secondary of toroidal coil will be multi switching to the voltage multiplier. Probably in the neighborhood of 1500 switching volt. How many stages the voltage multiplier has I don't know. The ignitier voltage to the cathode from the multiplier would be around 12000 voltage to get image intensifier tube to fire. stewbison

You are overcharging the battery and burning it up. 29 volts is way too much. You shouldn't get over 14.5. It's the voltage regulator. You're right on the money dude. Happy mowing.

here is a manual that may help.

http://pettersservice.com/polaroid/docs/FLM-3001ServiceManual.pdf

I've just checked mine as it suddenly stopped working - does not even light up the green button.

I'm getting 8 volts Red to Black and 23 volts Red to Yellow so I guess it's fubared?