Bosch 24 in. SHU66C02 / SHU66C06 Built-in Dishwasher Logo

Related Topics:

Joe Wickline Posted on Jun 09, 2017

I have an SHU66C06 model Bosch dishwasher that when I start diagnostics immediately displays a "2". I have confirmed resistance of the flow switch, heater, and NTC/hi limit switch. All measure close to correct values. When I check voltage into control board it measures 10 to 12 Volts. Coming out the other side of the relay it measures mV's to maybe a volt or 2. I'm not sure what the voltage into the relay should be - I would have thought 120V. Any expertise here?

3 Related Answers

BElectric

DILLIGAF

  • 1140 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 11, 2011

SOURCE: Bosch SHU9955UC /U12 Complaint: Long cycle

Hi there,

The long cycle times indicate a fault in either the water heater circuits or the timer.

I'm assuming from the model number you are in the US and therefore on a 120v supply. The heater is about 2000 watts, so a 10 amp draw is indicative of increased resistance (and therefore a fault) on a 120v system. If resistance through the coil (in ohms) in the water heater increases, the draw (in amps) will drop.

2000 (w) / 120 (v) = 16.7 amps

If you are using a 240 volt supply:

2000 (w) / 240 (v) = 8.3 amps

I suspect your water heater is failing. Either burning out or possibly shorting to earth. This is consistent with the symptoms of the fault, i.e. long cycle times but with evidence of heating. If there is a short to earth within the heater, it will still heat and draw current. A short to earth within the heater wont necessarily trip a breaker, but it will trip an RCD if you have one fitted.

You need to test for resistance (Ohms) between the hot/live and common/neutral terminals on the water heater. I'd also advise testing between the hot/live and earth terminals on the water heater. If you have continuity between hot and earth, the water heater has failed and needs to be replaced.

I'm assuming you have a multi-meter for conducting these tests? Please can you resistance test the water heater as described above and let me know the results. I also need to know whether you are on a 120v or 220-240v supply.

Please disconnect the dishwasher from the power supply before conducting electrical testing.

Regards,
BElectric.

Ad

Anonymous

  • 403 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 16, 2011

SOURCE: Hi I have a Bosch

First thing to do is check and make sure that it is connected to the hot water line.

Anonymous

  • 4323 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 12, 2011

SOURCE: Bosch SHU4302c - The

Hi
Yes if NTC is okay and you have already checked it then the issue is with the control board that is bad and should be replaced. Hope this helps...please post back for further assistance.

Daniel

Add Your Answer

×

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

0helpful
1answer

Bosch Dishwasher model SHU66C06 doesn't enter wash cycle

this sounds like flow sensor failure,it it fails machine will either not fill up or fill and drain without washing its a cheap part to replace and is fitted downstream of inlet valve behind l/h/s side panel either attached to inle hose or heat exchanger.
5helpful
1answer

Have a shu 4322 dishwasher it fills with water and drains but the spray arms do not spray. have not tried anything yet.this dishwasher is not hooked up. it was given to me by a friend who replaced all his...

Hello,

Welcome to FixYa.


There was indeed a recall involving the control replacement nearly two years ago now if I recall.

As for checking into the present issue ( it doesn`t sound like anything to do with the control based on your description ) it sounds like the pump impeller may have become stuck. Did the dishwasher sit idle or in storage unused for a period of time ?

I have a service bulletin I could send you via email regarding remedying that issue of stuck impeller if you contact me at [email protected]

I`d suggest you run the dishwasher through a diagnostic, but either procedure will require hooking it up.

To do this test/diagnostic on the SHU4322 series machine, it is as follows...

To start test program, press and hold both REGULAR WASH and RINSE & HOLD program buttons, then turn unit on by pressing ON/OFF button. Initially, control module version # will be displayed (e.g./ "20" = version 0 without jumper).

When wash program buttons are released, lights above them will flash. To end test program, press ON/OFF button.
To check each program indicator light, press its button. To check Cycle Countdown display, Refill Rinse Agent light and REGULAR WASH light, press REGULAR WASH button (press Delay Start button to test Cycle Countdown display alone).

Cycle Countdown display will show "88" when REGULAR WASH button is pressed and "8h" when Delay Start button is pressed.
To start testing, press both the REGULAR WASH and RINSE & HOLD buttons a second time.

When testing has ended, Cycle Countdown display will show a fault using codes below. If more than one fault occurs, code numbers will be added together, (e.g./ "6" = faults 2 + 4).
0 = No faults detected 2 = Heating fault 8 = NTC (temperature sensor) fault 1 = Aqua Sensor ("Sensotronic") fault 4 = Filling fault F = Filling fault (display occurs during wash, not test)

0 = No faults detected
1 = Aqua Sensor ("Sensotronic") fault
2 = Heating fault
4 = Filling fault
8 = NTC (temperature sensor) fault
F = Filling fault (display occurs during wash, not test)


To check for heater, high limit or flow switch problems, start testing until heating starts. Using a meter with a current coil, measure current going into dishwasher. If current is ~ 11 A, then heater, high limit and flow switch are OK. If current stays at ~ 1.5-2 A, then heater, high limit or flow switch are faulty.

i.e.

86c0a8d.jpg

If water level switch has failed (opened), display will show fault code "4" and unit will continually fill and drain where testing won't be completed. If flow switch has failed (opened), display will show "0", water won't heat (to 150?F) and water won't stop circulating. If NTC probe has failed (opened), display will show fault code "8" immediately and testing will end shortly after water has started circulating.


What needs to be done to solve the problem will depend on the results/findings of the dianostic, so let me know what you find and we can go from there.

Either way keep me in the loop and I`ll assist you the best I can. Thank you for choosing FixYa and good luck.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)
0helpful
1answer

Water won't drain

Do the diagnostic test:
SHU 53 MODELS

To start test program, press and hold both SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO program buttons, then turn unit on by pressing ON/OFF button. Initially, control module version # will be displayed (e.g./ ?21? = version 1 with jumper). When wash program buttons are released, lights above them will flash. To end test program, press ON/OFF button.
To check each program indicator light, press its button. To check Cycle Countdown display, Refill Rinse Agent light and REGULAR WASH light, press REGULAR WASH button (press Delay Start button to test Cycle Countdown display alone). Cycle Countdown display will show “88′ when REGULAR WASH button is pressed and “8h” when Delay Start button is pressed.
To start testing, press both the SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO buttons a second time. When testing has ended, Cycle Countdown display will show a fault using codes below. If more than one fault occurs, code numbers will be added together, (e.g./ ?6? = faults 2 + 4).
0 = No faults detected 2 = Heating fault 8 = NTC (temperature sensor) fault
1 = Aqua Sensor (“Sensotronic”) fault 4 = Filling fault F = Filling fault (display occurs during wash, not test)
To check for heater, high limit or flow switch problems, start testing until heating starts. Using a meter with a current coil, measure current going into dishwasher. If current is ~ 11 A, then heater, high limit and flow switch are OK. If current stays at ~ 1.5-2 A, then heater, high limit or flow switch are faulty.
If water level switch (f1) has failed (opened), display will show fault code “4′ and unit will continually fill and drain where testing won’t be completed. If flow switch (e5) has failed (opened), display will show “0′, water won’t heat (to 150?F) and water won?t stop circulating. If NTC probe (f2/f4) has failed (opened), display will show fault code “8′ immediately and testing will end shortly after water has started circulating.
---------
The dishwasher not draining is most probably faulty drain pump or drain hose is got bit loose.It has to be checked and confirmed
.You can get required parts from www.repairclinic.com
Thanks. Keep updated for any more query. You can rate this solution and show your appreciation.
0helpful
2answers

Bosch dishwasher, SHE43M 30" built-in, door won't latch closed, yet can still start cycle.

check latch on dishwasher side of the unit to make sure it has `nt got loose they make them so you can remove them when the unit is discarded so children can`t get trapped in side
1helpful
1answer

The dishwasher has been running for 3 hours and seems to be stuck on 1 minute left. Upon opening, there was sudsy water remaining in the bottom, but the dishes looked clean. The washer just won't go to...

SHU 53 MODELS To start test program, press and hold both SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO program buttons, then turn unit on by pressing ON/OFF button. Initially, control module version # will be displayed (e.g./ ?21? = version 1 with jumper). When wash program buttons are released, lights above them will flash. To end test program, press ON/OFF button. To check each program indicator light, press its button. To check Cycle Countdown display, Refill Rinse Agent light and REGULAR WASH light, press REGULAR WASH button (press Delay Start button to test Cycle Countdown display alone). Cycle Countdown display will show ?88″ when REGULAR WASH button is pressed and ?8h? when Delay Start button is pressed. To start testing, press both the SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO buttons a second time. When testing has ended, Cycle Countdown display will show a fault using codes below. If more than one fault occurs, code numbers will be added together, (e.g./ ?6? = faults 2 + 4). 0 = No faults detected 2 = Heating fault 8 = NTC (temperature sensor) fault 1 = Aqua Sensor (?Sensotronic?) fault 4 = Filling fault F = Filling fault (display occurs during wash, not test) To check for heater, high limit or flow switch problems, start testing until heating starts. Using a meter with a current coil, measure current going into dishwasher. If current is ~ 11 A, then heater, high limit and flow switch are OK. If current stays at ~ 1.5-2 A, then heater, high limit or flow switch are faulty. If water level switch (f1) has failed (opened), display will show fault code ?4″ and unit will continually fill and drain where testing won?t be completed. If flow switch (e5) has failed (opened), display will show ?0″, water won?t heat (to 150?F) and water won?t stop circulating. If NTC probe (f2/f4) has failed (opened), display will show fault code ?8″ immediately and testing will end shortly after water has started circulating.
2helpful
1answer

Bosch SHU 6800 Water hot at sink only luke warm at the washer

BAD CONTROL BOARD TO TEST TO SEE IF THIS IS THE ISSUE RUN TEST PROGRAM
To start test program, press and hold both SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO program buttons, then turn unit on by
pressing ON/OFF button. Initially, control module version # will be displayed (e.g./ “20” = version 0 without jumper). When
wash program buttons are released, lights above them will flash. To end test program, press ON/OFF button.
To check each program indicator light, press its button. To check Cycle Countdown display, Refill Rinse Agent light and
REGULAR WASH light, press REGULAR WASH button (press Delay Start button to test Cycle Countdown display
alone). Cycle Countdown display will show "88" when REGULAR WASH button is pressed and "8h" when Delay Start
button is pressed.
To start testing, press both SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO buttons a second time. When testing has ended,
Cycle Countdown display will show a fault using codes below. If more than one fault occurs, code numbers will be added
together, (e.g./ “6” = faults 2 + 4).
0 = No faults detected 2 = Heating fault 8 = NTC (temperature sensor) fault
1 = Aqua Sensor ("Sensotronic") fault 4 = Filling fault F = Filling fault (display occurs during wash, not test)
To check for heater, high limit or flow switch problems, start testing until heating starts. Using a meter with a current coil,
measure current going into dishwasher. If current is ~ 11 A, then heater, high limit and flow switch are OK. If current stays
at ~ 1.5-2 A, then heater, high limit or flow switch are faulty.
If water level switch (f1) has failed (opened), display will show fault code "4" and unit will continually fill and drain where
testing won't be completed. If flow switch (e5) has failed (opened), display will show "0", water won't heat (to 150ºF) and
water won’t stop circulating. If NTC probe (f2/f4) has failed (opened), display will show fault code "8" immediately and
testing will end shortly after water has started circulating
1helpful
1answer

Bosch dishwasher sps546 will not fill. switches on ok

you have to remove the cover of your unit in able to access the valve/.pump
0helpful
1answer

SHE45M05UC

the problem is the float switch is stuck
3helpful
3answers

Bosch

f is fill fault to much or not enough water or water in the sump white plastic base the f code will not go away until you solve the problem when the f code shows up the drain motor will run all of the time
Not finding what you are looking for?

141 views

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Bosch Dishwashers Experts

ZJ Limited
ZJ Limited

Level 3 Expert

17989 Answers

Mike Cairns
Mike Cairns

Level 3 Expert

3054 Answers

Cindy Wells

Level 3 Expert

6688 Answers

Are you a Bosch Dishwasher Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...