SOURCE: not enough hot water. I have an Amtrol Extrol coil water heater
Since you mentioned 'both temperatures' it seems your unit is like most all of them, a lower and upper coil.
If your hot water supply runs out quickly, this normally means that the lower coil has failed.
Since heat rises, the upper coil will never supply a tankful of hot water, just hot to start, and then as the flow continues, it doesn't have time to do more than warm the water flowing into the tank.
Every home should now own a simple digital multimeter; they cost less than $20 US everywhere and one can find them in auto parts stores, electronic supply companies and tool companies.
If you have a Harbor Freight tool store in your area, you can get them for under $10 US any time and sometimes even less:
Digital meter
You need to be absolutely certain that the voltage to the water heater is shut down.
Before you measure anything else, set the meter to its highest AC setting and check across the coils and then from either contact to the metal housing.
If it is dead everywhere, then set the meter to the lowest Ohms scale (normally 200).
The resistance of the coil should be nearly the same reading as when you simply short the meter's probe tips together.
If it measures 'OL' then the coil is open and must be replaced.
SOURCE: Whirlpool Energy Smart water heater not hot
I think some one mis informed you, the normal temp on any water heater from the factory is 120, it should not go above that for reasons of sevear burns, as far as it't smart part it's just a name, you will lose a couple of degrees just comming torm the tank to the faucets, the water heater will allways keep the temp in the tank at what ever it is set at, it doesn't have the brains or computer to know what time of day it is but when the cold water comes in to the tank it comes thru a dip tube that goes to aprox 1 inch from the bottom of the tank, if you take a long shower and do not have a energy efficant shower head you can use up to 5 gals, per min of hot water where an energy efficant one only uses 2.5 or less and still has the same pressure at the shower head, the temp in your water heater tries to stay at the setting it is at depending on how much is used at one time meaning washing machine, filling tub or dishwasher at the same time, it lets more cold in as the hot goes out and as you know it can only heat up so much at a time and the cold water is just going across the bottom of the tank, so the name is just that no diffrent then any other water heater unless you went to a tankless water heater.
SOURCE: no water coming out of carver cascade water heater
is the cold side hooked to the cold side if not you will be feeding the unit backwars making it to where the cold is just comming across the top of the tank, check the dip tube also, this makes the cold water go to the bottom and push the hot out of its outlet,, how many faucets are involved, if just one might want to check the cartridge to make sure it is working properly
SOURCE: I have a thermostat mixer shower but hot water has
The thermostatic mixing spool cartridge may be worn out. The low water pressure may indicate sediment in the cartridge as well. This can be easily removed by hand tools
SOURCE: amtrol water heater WH-7P gets barely warm water
I had the same problem. I had a steam boiler and the water level in the glass gauge was below the top of the coil of the tank. remember water finds its own level, so it settled at the glass gauge level, therefore air got in coil.
to resolve problem : turned on manual water feed to boiler to raise water level. as water level got higher, let out water in hosecock between boiler and amtrol. amtrol noticed hot water reduction, circulator clicked on, boiler kicked on, turned off hosecock, turned off manual feed. I effectively bleed water out of line by running water out of amtrol as water feed in boiler increased water level above coil.
took a while to figure this out, so if this is the problem, dont feel to bad. keep water level of steam boiler high.
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