When the clamp connects with the base it make a loud clicking noise

hi sorry i don't understand what clamp and curl ? can you please give model number, grinding can be a bearing or the motor. usually the bearing in that. top loaders it can be the gearing on the base. as for clamp and curl i don't know what they mean?? pipe clamp ?

Clicking noise would indicate starter solenoid faulty! This would also be the case if battery low but since you have a new battery you can look at the starter solenoid!

Have you checked the battery?

Clicking noises are normal...banging noises are not. Replace the thermostat.

It could be the noise filter , a small part similar to a capacitor connected to main power entrance .

Hello,

Take the lower kick plate off four 1/4 screws. The noise is coming from the motor itself. This is a very common issue on these units. The motor is held into the bottom with two 5/16 hose clamps.

Once the clamps are off the motor will fall down and slide forward. Simply slide the new motor into position and push up lock the two clamps and your done. The two wire connection on the front of the motor would also need to be removed and hooked back up.

Good luck with your repair friend

Check the clamps aound the Inlet and Exhaust sides of the Turbo, and the Rubber Boots that connect the High pressure Air flow to the Charge Cooler Inlet and Outlet sides and the Boot into the Manifold. Any of these defects will create this sound. Especially look for a Split in the Connecting Boots, which will reduce Intake Air Pressure and Volume, which indicates a fault to the ECM, and susequent warning.
Regards,DT

well, check mounting bolts at cylinder heads(black soot is a sign of loos bolts or bad gasket, the connecter clamp at muffler if it has one, and if all looks well, the baffels inside the muffler may be loose or rotten

OK, so we're getting closer!

I find that those with problems that manifest themselves on closing the cassette door are related to a loose ribbon connection(s).

Sorry, no pictures, I fixed mine and sold it!

When I say run from mains, I mean there was a cable in the original box that connected from the charger base into the camera, to give it a constant electrical supply; you can remove the battery and run it like this.
This was just to prove that the battery hadn't gone haywire and simply caused a malfunction.

Personally, at a guess, I would definitely open it up and wiggle the ribbon cables, while you're there you should also clean the moisture sensor...just incase.

1. Cleaning the moisture sensor:
Take the base cover off by removing the 4 screws (3 on base - 1 under LCD). There will be two small copper contacts under this cover toward the top/middle. Either just blow on them or if that does not work clean them with alcohol spirit or similar, put the think back together and power up and that should do it - worked for me.

2. Ensuring ribbon cables are seated correctly:
Turn the cam over.
remove all the screws holding the dark plastic bottom on the camcorder, remove it carefully.
Now you will see the ribbon cables, VERY GENTLY, wiggle them from left to right (about 1mm each way), then push them in.
Test by putting your battery back on and see if it holds a tape, or plays without blinking and switching off - you'll be happy then!

Good Luck

Most base board heaters installation instructions say to attach to the wall with screws which are slack ( not fully tightened) in order to allow the heater case to expand and contract otherwise you get a clicking noise