Bosch SHE44C02UC digital display shows longer time for regular wash than power wash

The statement below can be found at: http://www.ehow.com/list_6978265_bosch-dishwasher-error-codes.html,

The SHU4326 and 4326 models use "Regular Wash" and "Rinse Hold" to begin the test while the other three series in this section use "Scrub Wash" and "Delicate/Econo," but all use the same set of fault codes, shown not as lights but as numbers on the Cycle Countdown display. Here, 1 is an aqua sensor fault, 2 is a heating fault, 4 is a filling fault, 8 is an NTC fault and 0 means that everything is working as it ought. During an actual wash, when you aren't testing, the Cycle Countdown display may show the letter "F," which also signifies a filling fault.

Read more: http://www.ehow.com/list_6978265_bosch-dishwasher-error-codes.html#ixzz33JutQVQR

go to the manufactures website and download the user manual giving the model nr eric

Hello,

Welcome to FixYa.

Based on your description I'd say the issue is with the control...unfortunately.

The number"1" being displayed ( on models with the display like yours ) is actually an error code indicating a fault in the heating process.

Bosch has had a history of this exact problem I'm about to lay out for you and this is the first thing I'd be looking for if called out to service the unit with the symptoms you've described.

As I've alluded to the issue is likely within the electronic timer/control, specifically the heater relay solder joint. ( a faulty flow switch, ntc or heater can also cause this, but not very probable ).

My first suggestion would be calling in an authorized bosch service tech. if that is an option for you and your budget however, If you feel capable of checking this on your own, there`s a way to visually inspect the control yourself.

It will require you to remove the control from the unit and then remove the control from it`s plastic housing and look for a burnt solder contact on the printed circuit board.




The culprit will 99% of the times be one of the pins from the heater relay,



**Flip this over and inspect the solder joints, it will be obvious when you see it.**

This ones new, but it's where to look...




...hence the unit sit`s and takes longer

The problem is a solenoid on the bottom of the unit. It is a small black cylinder next to the pump. It operates the valve that changes to the drain cycle. You can probably order one from Bosch

Hi,

The issue with your Bosch dishwasher likely lye`s within`the electronic timer/control. A faulty flow switch, ntc or heater can also cause this, but not very probable.

If you feel capable there`s a way to visually inspect the control. It will require you to remove the control from the unit and then remove the control from it`s plastic housing and look for a burnt solder contact on the printed circuit board. This will be one of the pins from the heater relay, hence the unit sit`s at "1" ( because it can`t heat to advance or until canceled ) trying to heat the water.

**Further to this, if you or someone you know is proficient at soldering, a lot of times it can be remedied by simply repairing the solder...although Bosch recommend`s replacing the control and I don`t pretend to speak on there behalf nor do I profess to know better. This is just my experience (it work`s) and my opinion (why buy new if one can repair ?)**

**Please disconnect the power before attempting any service to the dishwasher. If you do not feel comfortable attempting this service, call a local pro, preferably one familiar with Bosch/Thermador/Gaggenau, to service your machine.**

Hope this answer`s your question, let me know if I can assist you further. Thank`s for visiting "fixya" for your repair inquiries. Please take a moment and rate this solution and leave a testimony to it`s success or failure, but I`m 99.9% certain ;)

Good luck.

macmarkus :)

Light's on mean you have power.

Initiate the self test program by doing the following -

To start test program, press and hold both POWER SCRUB PLUS and RINSE & HOLD program buttons, then turn unit on
by pressing ON/OFF button. When program buttons are released, lights above them will flash. To end test program, press
ON/OFF button.
To check program indicator lights (POWER SCRUB PLUS, REGULAR WASH and RINSE & HOLD), press and hold each
program button. When REGULAR WASH program button is pressed, CLEAN light also comes on.
To start testing, press both POWER SCRUB PLUS and RINSE & HOLD buttons a second time. When testing has ended
and a fault was detected, the following indicator lights will be lit:
POWER SCRUB PLUS = Heater fault
REGULAR WASH = Water filling fault (over or under filling)
RINSE & HOLD = NTC (temperature sensor) fault – note circulation motor stops shortly after it started
during an NTC fault
To check for heater, high limit or flow switch problems, start testing until heating starts. Using a meter with a current coil,
measure current going into dishwasher. If current is ~ 11 A, then heater, high limit and flow switch are OK. If current stays
at ~ 1.5-2 A, then heater, high limit or flow switch are faulty.
If water level switch (f1) has failed (opened), REGULAR WASH light will come on and unit will continually fill and drain
where testing won't be completed. If flow switch (e5) has failed (opened), water won't heat (to 150ºF) and water won’t stop
circulating. If NTC probe (f2/f4) has failed (opened), RINSE & HOLD light will come on immediately and testing will end
shortly after water has started circulating.
If more than one fault occurs, more than one light will be lit.

Let me know what you figure out. I can repair these boards most of the time.

BAD CONTROL BOARD TO TEST TO SEE IF THIS IS THE ISSUE RUN TEST PROGRAM
To start test program, press and hold both SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO program buttons, then turn unit on by
pressing ON/OFF button. Initially, control module version # will be displayed (e.g./ “20” = version 0 without jumper). When
wash program buttons are released, lights above them will flash. To end test program, press ON/OFF button.
To check each program indicator light, press its button. To check Cycle Countdown display, Refill Rinse Agent light and
REGULAR WASH light, press REGULAR WASH button (press Delay Start button to test Cycle Countdown display
alone). Cycle Countdown display will show "88" when REGULAR WASH button is pressed and "8h" when Delay Start
button is pressed.
To start testing, press both SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO buttons a second time. When testing has ended,
Cycle Countdown display will show a fault using codes below. If more than one fault occurs, code numbers will be added
together, (e.g./ “6” = faults 2 + 4).
0 = No faults detected 2 = Heating fault 8 = NTC (temperature sensor) fault
1 = Aqua Sensor ("Sensotronic") fault 4 = Filling fault F = Filling fault (display occurs during wash, not test)
To check for heater, high limit or flow switch problems, start testing until heating starts. Using a meter with a current coil,
measure current going into dishwasher. If current is ~ 11 A, then heater, high limit and flow switch are OK. If current stays
at ~ 1.5-2 A, then heater, high limit or flow switch are faulty.
If water level switch (f1) has failed (opened), display will show fault code "4" and unit will continually fill and drain where
testing won't be completed. If flow switch (e5) has failed (opened), display will show "0", water won't heat (to 150ºF) and
water won’t stop circulating. If NTC probe (f2/f4) has failed (opened), display will show fault code "8" immediately and
testing will end shortly after water has started circulating

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hi there this is a software problem on the pcb and the only way to fix it is to replace the pcb. cost about £80

you have a leak probably from circ pump. there is a float in the base which when lifted by water, shuts everything down and turns on the drain pump