Looking for the main control board wiring diagram on my GE profile Fridge

It is not your relay. Mine did the same and the problem is the resistor that drive it goes short so the relay clatters as the circuit is trying to control it. The actual fault is the 78p153sp driver. You can change the transistor, a pnp will do the trick but the driver is dead. I'm currently looking for this IC and they're hard to find, cheap Chinese tat. So instead I'll likely fit a temp sensor that detects when the cooling coils reach about 4deg and switch the fridge off because shorting the relay will just cause the cooling to stay on and you'll get ice, it needs to cool, collect moisture, switch off, warm up and dump the moisture...crude but it works. This unit is worth saving.

No there is not...if you have 120v fed from board to fan motor and fan is not operating, then you have a bad motor or capacitor.

The sensor is damaged or dirty or the main board is damaged, the wire of the senzor is out from the main board.

I contacted GE on the web and found out they don't make the parts anymore for this unit. I used Gorilla glue to repair the cracks in the old semi soft plastic water collector chamber.
dmbrownpe

After all that testing you have diagnosed the problem. It is the main circuit board. So there is not reason to do any more test. I would just get a new control board and off you go

I'm fixing one of these too. Take the top off (follow the AC cord) and the fuse is on the PCB.

I am also looking for a better wiring diagram - the control panel on mine does not light up.

I have same problem (ie, missing this drain nozzle). From my searching, the GE part number is : WK09X10006.
Found it on : http://www.myapstore.com/Omega/Dispatcher?REQUEST=ACCESSORY
searching for 'drain nozzle'.
My searching (so far) is finding a couple places online to purchase this, but at $14-$15. Still looking for a better (ie, cheaper!) option.
Hope this helps.

You have to remove the entire wrapper to get to the control circuit board, make sure you unplug unit!! Locate the small white wires that plug into the board and go to the humidity switch.Unplug the connector at the board and plug the machine in and see if everything runs. ps make sure you reinstall the bucket or unit will not run. If machine runs replace that humidity control. The plug on the board is usually white. The other white wire is 4 the light. I hope this helps./

Looks like a control board, Check the board for burn marks. What model do you have? Some parts are available on-line at appliance factory parts.. also check your Capacitor and fan motor before you install your new Board..Let me know if this helps? Krazytech

My unit is a Fedders A7DH65B2A and your Maytag unit was made by Fedders and is just like mine w/ different label... I've purchased two of these units (one for me & one for my father-in-law) and they both quit pulling moisture from the air (but ran constantly) about 1 month past the 1yr warranty. My unit also acted really strange one day when the problem was occurring - it flashed on & off erratically and wouldn't power off unless I pulled the power cord. In short, I took it apart and found several issues and eventually figured out the chain of events that led to this: 1) The thermistor went bad and the unit could no longer sense when the evaporator coil started freezing up (normal situation that the unit should detect & then do a defrost cycle). As a result, the evaporator coil turned itself into a big chunk of ice (can see by removing the air filter and looking into that slot at the coil (looks like a radiator). 2) the big block of ice on the coil grew large enough to start making contact with part of the plastic housing above the evap coil that's used for the power control circuit board. The plastic in that area then got ice all over it and since it looks like a little tray, it will hold water (when the ice thaws) and then the power control board will be sitting in a puddle of water (or ice - either will cause malfuntions like not being able to turn the power off using the front panel switch). 3) the puddle of water in the power control board tray caused this circuit board to corrode (happens very quickly when the unit is plugged in since electricity accelerates this kind of thing...). So... a poor quality thermistor (this straps to the bottom right side of the copper pipe that loops out & back in to the evap coil and has a wire coming out of if) caused premature defrost circuit failure. This caused a big block of ice to form where it shouldn't be. The ice caused condensation/moisture/ice to form on/under the power control circuit board and corroded the circuit board and caused erratic power control issues. RepairClinic.com had a replacement sensor board (included all sensors - yes, the thermistor too...) so I purchased it (~$40) and used only the new thermistor off of it to plug into my original sensor board (and strapped it back to the evap coil w/ the chrome looking clip that was already there). Problem fixed! Well, almost... I did have to clean the corrosion off my power control board as well, but it survived luckily. After doing this to mine, my father-in-laws unit experienced similar symptoms. I did the same fix to his and presto... fixed. Cheap low quality thermistors on these units. I need to find a higher quality replacement thermistor before round 2 happens on each unit. Good luck!