I tried cutting the ditch at the end of the driveway, which is on a 45 degree slope. The motor started to blow oil. Ever since then, it leaks oil down by the filter. Removed oil filter and hoses to check for cracks, but found nothing. Any answers would help. Thanks.

Im not fully conversant with Turbos , but I would hazard a guess from memory that there is an oil feed from the engine to the turbo to lubricate it. I would think that the oil sump in the turbo has a seal at one or both ends. When the car is level, the oil doesn't reach the level of the oil seal, and therefore doesn't leak. When the car is on a slope, the oil will level itself out and probably be above the oil seal and then it leaks. Check if the leak occurs only when the car is pointing uphill or downhill. It may give you an idea as to which end seal is leaking.

Smack the heater motor. It is under the dash on the passenger side. You can usually get them to start that way.

An easy way to find the leak is to have the motor steam cleaned or gunked, brush on talcum powder where you suspect the leak might be. Start the engine and let it run for a while, turn it off and look. The talcum powder will make the leak immediately obvious.

Does it drip off onto the driveway? As in oil pools?

You first need to determine if the oil is blowing out when the engine is on high revs or if it happens anytime the engine operates. On my 1996 Mark VIII it ended up being the valve cover gaskets, but at first it was such a small leak that it would only blow out when the engine was at high revs. I eventually found the problem by steam cleaning the engine and then using kitchen floor to spot the leak.

yes pull in on a 45 degree angle when backing out back up when your car rear end is on the road turn 45 degrees no scrap or bottom out i went through this too!that is how i over came it.

depends on the skis,skier,temp,wax,and skill.

The slope is measured off the horizontal plane. A 45 degree slope would rise 12 inches for every 12 inches of horizontal travel in this example. If the slope is too great try checking kits made by Fanimation. The Fanimation SCK52 - 52 Degree Ceiling Slope Ceiling Fan Kit will go up to a 52 degree angle ceiling and will fit most downrods. The hampton bay fans are very popular and should work just fine with this kit.

-Mark

adjust the valves, this should solve the problem,

The problem was not a problem at all, apparently it was the fact that when my vehicle was parked in the driveway which is on a bit of a slope. That caused the fuel to shift in the tank causing my problem. When I backed the vehicle out of the driveway and got on level ground the problem corrected itself and everything was fine. This is the only time I have ever had this problem since I've gotten the car. Also another indication I did'nt catch initially was that the low fuel light came on when I tried to start the vehicle earlier.

* The base plate can be tilted to make angled cuts. Most saws adjust from 90 degrees to slightly less than 45 degrees, making it possible to cut bevelled ends on boards for corning attachments, hip-roof rafter cuts, and even miters. Most saws are equipped with a thumbscrew or lever to loosen the bolt which keeps the saw blade on the correct angle for the cut you are making, located on the front of the saw. Some are also equipped with a scale which indicates the blade angle, from '0' (90 degrees, or square to the board surface) to 45 degrees. * The blade can be set to the depth required for individual cuts, from less than 1/8 inch to the full depth the blade is capable of penetrating. The lever or thumbscrew which locks the base plate at the desired height is usually located at the rear of the motor on the left side. * Many circular saws are equipped with a ripping fence, to guide the blade as you make a rip cut along the edge of a board, giving you a straighter, parallel cut. * Dust ejector. A few newer saws are equipped with a dust ejector to blow the sawdust away from the operator's face and from the mark where the cut is being made. * Laser tracking light. Some newer saws are equipped with a laser that projects a bright, red line down the path of the blade travel. These can also be purchased to retrofit on older units that are not factory equipped with them. * Blade guard. This should be considered a essential safety feature on any saw, and has two parts, the fixed guard over the top of the blade, and the floating guard, which rolls out of the way as the saw is pushed into the work piece. Some have a handle so the blade guard can manually be lifted for plunge cutting or easier viewing of the cutting mark.