Sure can!
Most Kenmore style dryers have a heating element that has a long wire coil inside it, (often there are two wires or elements inside one housing). Regardless, if you have carefully checked the air exhaust, and you find it is "perfect" ( means no back-up heat from a plugged or impeded air flow) and you have determined the air flow inside the machine is like new, ( no back up there either), then what has possible happened is the wire heating element has wiggled loose and is touching itself, thereby shorting out and making super heat.
The wire coils are usually held loosely in place with white ceramic rings, to keep them from touching the metal housing. If you carefully remove the heating element "box or "tube" and look inside , you may be able to see the problem. Testing it with an ohm meter will not work, it will simply test OK. The element is made to heat at a certain temperature according to it's length, if it touches itself, the elecrttricity will take the shortest route and may make your element glow white hot in one spot. Be blessed.
Testimonial: "Thank you so much for the tip. The element did not appear to be in contact with itself in any location. I will say that the element plate itself is cracked. My parts supplier told me that would not affect the element and actually would not sell me a new one because he said it did not need replacing!! I ran the dryer with the front of the element box exposed and noticed that the element does not seem to heat evenly. In fact, it was most orange in color toward the back (and the crack) and not glow at all nearer the contacts nor on the end curls. I was able to run the dryer for 30 minutes on minimum heat with the element box fully open. However, even just installing the front element housing deflector (but not the front panel) will blow the TCO after 15-20 minutes."
SOURCE: Kenmore Electric Dryer Model # 110.62622101
I think on your machine the lower thermostat connected to one terminal of the element, you have a wire coming from the thermal cut off down to the top terminal of the lower thermostat, a wire from the lower thermostat to the timer, and a wire going to the other terminal of the element.
You probably have the wire from the cut-off correct as it won't reach the other terminals. You have crossed the other 2 wires. This caused 240V to short across the lower thermostat and burned it out.
You will need a new Hi-limit thermostat, which will include the upper cut-off as well. They come as a set part# 279816. This will be a little different because the new hi-limit will not connect directly to the element. There will be all the wire ends and instructions with it that you need to get it hooked up correctly.
There should be a wiring diagram inside the console of the dryer that shows which wires go where, but I am sure you have crossed the 2 wires below the hi-limit switch.
Post back if you need any help.
Thanks/Mike
SOURCE: No Heat - Kenmore Series 90 electric dryer
check cord conections and timer contacts (big wires)
SOURCE: Kenmore Dryer 60982 Runs but No Heat
you can check them all with an ohms meter but i think it is the thermal fuse at the top of the heater box that is bad-mike
SOURCE: Kenmore Dryer 110.64632300 won't heat up!
vent pipe kinked not letting heat away from dryer, check vent , or the thermostt stuck and not cycling heating element cycle off
SOURCE: Kenmore electric dryer Model 63932:
The motor relay is probably shot.
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