I am looking for a wiring schematic for a Dacor cpo230 oven timer. I was replacing the timer and a white wire came loose from one of the plugs. I need to place the wire back into the correct slot, but there are 3 empty slots in the red plug.
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My Dacor oven ECS227 would not preheat. Most website advice was the High Temp Cutout needed to be reset. That was not my problem. I found a schematic for the oven and determined the relay that controls the power to both the Broil and Bake elements was not conducting. I could hear the relay operate but the voltage for the two elements was not on the output side of the relay. I ordered a new Relay Board (92029) for $200 and after replacing the board the oven worked except it started smoking from the panel area and the smell was that of an electrical overheat. Further investigation revealed one of the slip-on connections on top of the relay was sparking and generating heat in the range of 150 degrees (measured with a IR temperature meter). It was melting the plastic around the connection which was the source of the smoke and the smell. I removed the wire, compressed the connection points a little, reconnected the wire and all is well. The plastic around the connection became very brittle from the heat and broke off while I was working on the wire connection but it still works. I found you can purchase the relay itself for about $5, so I did that just in case this should happen in the future. I will repair my old board and have it ready to go for a future replacement if needed and will also replace the connection clip at that time. The relay can be ordered from Mouser Electronic - their part number 655-T9AP1D22-18-01. The relay is stamped T9AP1D22-18 Potter Brumfield. Hope this helps anyone else when the resetting of the High Temp Cutout does not solve your problem.
I think I worked it out. Black = Neutral. Brown = Live for the two power spades. The four spades for the timer (from the top+ = Red, Orange, Brown then white on the bottom. You will notice that Red and Orange, Brown and White are clipped together. Timer (and oven) is now working perfectly.
For some reason the oven thinks you have a door that is not shut all of the way. Check the locking slot to make sure that there are no obstructions. Make sure that you are only doing one oven at a time, and not trying to cook in the other. Make sure you have no racks in the oven. Try pushing lightly on the door when the lock engages. For some reason your lock isn't engaging fully and that's why door is flashing. Good Luck
Below is from the owners manual for your oven.
Oven does not self-clean Door not shut tight Check for obstructions. Close door tightly
Oven set for delay timed cleaning Oven will start to self-clean at preset time.
Press CANCEL/SECURE to return to
normal operation
Double ovens only: Other oven is on. Turn off other oven.
hi
The range timer is usually located in the control panel on top of the range. If you suspect the timer is faulty, don't try to fix it yourself. Remove it and take it to a professional service person for testing. Here's how to remove the timer:
Step 1: Remove the back service panel to the control panel and release the spring clips that hold it in position, or remove the retaining screws.
Step 2: Push the timer forward to release it.
Step 3: Remove the electrical lead wires from the timer housing. If, when disassembling the timer, you notice that the electrical wire terminals look burned, remove these leads and buff the leads and the terminal points with fine steel wool. Burned and/or dirty terminals can cause the timer to malfunction, but a good cleaning can solve this problem.
Step 4: Replace the old timer or install a new one of the same size and type, if this is necessary. Connect the new timer the same way the old one was connected.
HI. the F-1 code is a System Watchdog Circuit failure code.
Press "Cancel", if beeping continues after 30 seconds, replace the main control board (also called clock or ERC).
Concerning the F-5 code. This is an oven temp sensor failure code. have it replaced asap. ((Check the wiring leading to and from the control and sensor for cracks and fouled structure. if the wiring is bad, replace the harness as well)),
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