I need instruction manual for a gfci recepticle and switch combin

GFCI's don't usually come with a switch.

What device are you replacing... a switch or a outlet?

1) If you are replacing a switch with 3 or 4 wires?
That is either a 3-way switch, 4-way switch, or a DPDT switch and cannot be replaced with GFCI

2) If you are replacing outlet with 4 wires, then it can be replaced with GFCI combo.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-GFCI.html#8

3) If you are replacing ordinary single-pole switch, then you can replace with GFCI combo IF the box has a neutral wire
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-GFCI.html#6

4) You can install GFCI protection on any circuit by installing GFCI earlier in the circuit.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Basic-house-wiring.html


Gene

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1) Copy following link for wiring gfci
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-GFCI.html

2) Add a comment March 2013 and say what voltage you are wiring, and what the wires connet to.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Copy following for wiring diagrams showing GFCI combo switch-outlet
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-GFCI.html

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

I believe the GFCI is only meant to protect the receptacle. Plig something into it and try the test button and it should work as expected.

If I understand correctly you are replacing ordinary switch with switch-plug-GFCI device.
And one cable enters the box, and the cable has 1 black and 1 white and 1 ground wire.

To correctly wire combo GFCI device, you need a Neutral wire.
If your switch box has 1 cable, then it does not have a Neutral.
The neutral is required for GFCI operation, and also to power new outlet.

To test for Neutral wire:
Separate wires for testing.
Turn power ON.
Test each wire to bare ground wire.
Tester lights up on Hot line wire from breaker box.
Hot is identified.
Test Hot wire to all other wires inside box, except bare ground wire.
Tester lights up on Neutral wire.

> If switch box does not have Neutral, then device cannot be wired correctly.
> If you do have a Neutral, then open following link for correct wiring of device:
http://www.fixya.com/support/t8269774-okay_same_problem_cooper

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Your question is not 100% clear because you don't say exactly what device you are wiring or what wires are inside the box.
You posted under switch-plug combo with GFCI.
Add a comment with clear description if instructions below do not apply to your project.

Electricians don't guess, they test, so lets walk through the steps.

1) If you have GFCI combo, there are markings on back of device for 'LINE' and 'LOAD'.
There are also 2 wires sticking out of back of GFCI.

Lets test your wires.
Separate wires inside box for testing.
Use ordinary 2-wire tester. Tape wood sticks to tester leads to keep hands away from power.
Turn power ON.
Test each wire to bare ground wire.
Tester lights up on Hot wire. Hot wire connects to Brass-colored Line screw.
Hot wire is identified.
Test Hot wire to all other wires, except bare ground.
Tester lights up on Neutral wire. Neutral connects to silver-colored Line screw.
Load wires are wires that go to the fan,light or motor.
Load wires connect to two wires sticking out of back of GFCI device.
Other wires located in electric box could connect to the Load screws, but it is unclear if you have other wires.

2) If you have regular combo switch plug without GFCI, then device has 3 color-coded screws: dark, brass and silver.
Hot connects to dark screw.
Neutral connects to silver screw
Black wire to Load connects to brass screw.
White wire to Load also connects to silver screw

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Leviton 8299 combination switch and receptacle with GFCI manual
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Leviton-8299-instruction-manual.pdf

You don't say what kind of device you are replacing.
Instructions below may be way off base if you are trying to replace a 3-way switch.
Instructions below are for replacing a switch-plug combo.
Add a comment any time, and clarify your device your are replacing.

Electricians don't guess, they test.
First thing we need to test is Hot and Neutral wires.

Note where each wire was connected to old device before removal.
Note the wire that was connected to brass, dark, and silver screws.
The screw color is coded, and will verify testing.

Separate wires and turn on power.
Test each wire to bare ground wire.
Tester will light up on Hot wire. Mark the hot wire.
Test Hot wire to each other wire (except bare ground wire)
Tester will light up on Neutral wire. Mark the Neutral.
The other two wires are presumed to go to Load (light, fan, motor)

Now lets look at back of the 8299 device.
On back of device directly behind receptacle part of device is the word LINE.
Hot wire connects to brass colored LINE screw.
Neutral wire connects to silver colored LINE screw.
These two wires will power the device, and power the receptacle.

Next we want to wire the switch.
Notice on drawing below, that switch Loads (light fan motor) are connected to two wires on back of 8299.
Again referring to back of device as reference point, black wire going to Load connects to wire on left side. White wire going to Load connects to wire on right side.
Now turn on power and test that switch and receptacle both operate as expected.
If operation is not correct, then add a comment and say what the second black and white wires connect to.

If you look at your diagram, the neutral connects to the box with no number on it. This also supplies the nuetral to the timer motor. There is no need to switch the neutral conductor (white)
Connect line (incoming hot) to terminal L connect the load(black) out to the GCI on terminal X. Put both neutral white wires on the terminal with the square box.(this terminal should have the other timer motor wire already connected to it.

power coming in from the breaker box: black wire will go to line-hot screw, and the white wire will go to the line-white screw. the switch wires coming out of the back of the gfci- 1 will go to the load-hot screw & the other black wire will wire nut to the black wire going to the light. the white wire going to the light must go to the load-white screw.