I just got my subs and amp i have my amp wired up but what do i need to hook the amp to the sub?

That amplifier is only rated at 150 watts at 4 ohms, or 300 watts at 2 ohms. Not a very strong amp to run 2 kicker comps. My guess is you have the subs wired wrong for your application. There are 2 types of subs, one is a dual 4 ohm, and one is a dual 2 ohm. Most people bridge these coils together and that cuts your ohms in half. For example. Lets say you have the 10cvr104 subs. Thats the dual 4 ohm sub. You wire the coils together in parallel, now its a 2 ohm sub. You have 2 of these subs running off of your amp, if they are hooked up in parallel, now you have a 1 ohm load, out of the amplifiers normal operation. Your amplifiers internals heat up really quick and there is a thermal overload, putting your amplifier into circuit protection mode. My suggestion for wiring your subs is as follows: for each speaker, wire the coils together like this- positive coil1 to negative coil 2 and negative coil 1 to positive coil 2. That is called running in series, and doubles your ohm load. Next, we need to wire the speakers together properly to hook up to your amplifier. For this, since the coils are hooked together, you only need to use one set of terminals from each sub. And take the positive from sub 1 and hook it to positive of amp. Take negative sub 1 and hook it to positive of sub 2. Take negative of sub 2 and hook it to negative of amp.

You can hook it up a couple of ways.
Depending on how many subs you have and what ohms they are running at here is the chart you need. If your going to run one sub off it the last option is the way to go. Your going to need to find out the power of your subs or else the power could be off and you could blow the sub. If the rms power is higher than 130watts per coil you will be fine. If so there are four channels on the amp and two should show a line going to each other that says bridge. Hook up the positives and the negative of the subs as shown on the amp that will get your max power. If your sub is running at 4 ohm. Let me know, if not thats how you would do it.
Also for the power and remote wires. Hook up a power wire (16 gauge would be plenty fine) from the battery to the + terminal of the amp. Then take an equal or bigger sized wire from the - side of the amp and secure it to any medal part of the body of the car. If there is paint on it get if off. (not on the outside of your car or where any water would be.) Then run a remote wire from your stereo (most the times it is blue and white) to the remote terminal of the amp. This tell the amp when to turn on and off. Your amp will not turn on with out all of these wires. Good luck to you and let me know how it works out.

4 x 55W RMS @ 4Ohm

4 x 65W RMS @ 2Ohm

1 x 130W RMS @ 4Ohm - Bridge

depending on how many channels the amp is, you may not be able to hook everything up to it.

usually you have a separate amp for subs. 4 channel amp for the speakers in the car, and a mono amp for the subs.

To hook them all up to the same amp you would need an amp with 5 channels. It wouldn't work out right.

If you have a mono amp its only for subs.

If you have a 2 channel you can either hook it up to the rear speakers or bridge them to mono to run the subs.


you need a channel per speaker basically.

If you can setup the Amp as a Mono Amp this will work for you very well unless the Amp needs a 12ω Load when setup for Mono Operations. You will want to hook the Two Subs in Series so that the Amp will see 1 8ω load. This means you will hook a wire to the Positive pole of one Sub and hook the Negative Pole to the Positive Pole of the Second Sub and hook the Negative Pole to the Amp's Negative pole. This will reduce the overall output but will end up having better reliability of the Sub since each sub will only see ½ the overall output of the Amp and you will still get the full output of the Amp.

First I hope you remove the speaker wires from the speaker that come from the built in amplifire. You cannot hook the powered sub to the amp without doing that first. Then all you need to do is run speaker wire from the sub out of the box to the amp. In no way can you hook up any other part of the powered sub, but the sub itself, to the amp. If you know the wattage of the sub and the ohms then wire it to the amp correctly. Your phoenix amp will put out 125 watts x 2 at 4 ohms and 250 watts x 2 at 2 ohms and 500 watts x 1 at 4 ohms bridged. Remember, only the sub itself in the sub enclosure can be connected to the amp. Hope this helped you. Let me know if you need more help.

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/mark_b53a7494531bf96d

Hello mgonzalez390,

It sounds like the amp/subs impedance is not matched. According to the published specifications for the V1502 amp, it is only stable in bridged mode down to 4ohms, not 2ohms. You need to get the final impedance that the amp sees up to at least 4ohms or it will continue to shut down and eventually fail completely.

If your subs are dual voice coil and can be rewired so that each sub has an impedance of 8ohms, then you can safely parallel them to the amp like you have described. If they are single 4ohm voice coils, then you have 2 choices. Connect one sub to each channel or if you want to bridge the channels, then wire the subs in series, not in parallel. Wire the positive bridged terminal from the amp to the first sub positive, connect a jumper from the negative of that sub to positive on the other sub, and then the negative from that sub back to the negative bridged terminal on the amp. This wiring results in an 8ohm load to the amp and it should work OK without shutting down. But the power to each sub will actually be less than if you wire them separately to each channel.

Hope this helps.

Sounds like the two subs wired together might be too much of a load on the amp and it is shutting off. Try wiring the two subs in series. That will reduce the load on the amp but will conversely put out less power. Less is better than none though. In any case check your amp to see what the lowest ohm rating it can see, that ohm rating is where you want your subs and if faced with a choice of either going under (lower numerically) or over (higher numerically) GO OVER!-it is much safer.
Here's an article I wrote that can help explain how to wire the subs to the amp.

OHM LOADS, SUB WIRING, OHM RELATED POWER OUTPUT

SERIES SUBWOOFER WIRING
Wire the positive pole from one voice coil (using wire that is as thick or thicker than your wire from amp to sub) to the negative pole of the other voice coil (on the same sub). This will leave you with a positive pole from one voice coil and a negative pole from the other giving you the two leads that will be hooked up to the amplifier or other subs. When wiring in series, the ohms will go up numerically, and the load on the amp will go down. Almost all amplifiers power output will follow this rule, except some amps such as JL Audio's “Ohm matching” D Class amps.

PARALLEL SUBWOOFER WIRING
Wire the positive pole from one voice coil (using wire that is as thick or thicker than your wire from amp to sub) to the positive pole of the other voice coil (on the same sub). Then wire the negative to the negative in the same way. You can then wire to the amp or other subs. When wiring in parallel the ohms will go down numerically, and the load on the amp will go up. Almost all amplifiers power output will follow this rule, except some amps such as JL Audio's “Ohm matching” D Class amps.

MULTIPLE SUBS USING SERIES AND PARALLEL WIRING
In order to match your amplifiers ohm rating you can use parallel and series wiring together, just keep things even for power distribution and to avoid phase issues.
Example: I have two “Type X 12” subs” that have dual 2ohm voice coils and have to match my “Amplifier X” ohm rating of 2ohms mono. In this case, I would wire each subwoofer in series (giving me a 4ohm load), and then wire the two subs in parallel to get my 2ohm mono load. When wiring multiple subs just, treat each sub as a voice coil and wire accordingly.

POWER OUTPUT AND OHM LOADS
For example if “Amplifier X” can make 100watts@8ohms, it would make 200watts@4ohms and 400watts@2ohms. However with every drop in ohms the amplifier is put under more pressure. It starts to create a lot of heat, distortion figures begin to climb, damping rates drop, and some amps even throw power spikes when clipping. SO BE SURE TO CHECK YOUR AMPS RATING AND DO NOT EXCEED IT!

-Dynami

I would double-check your RCA's on the amplifier. You should hear a thud if you unplug them. If not they are either not hooked up or defective.

if its cutting off and right back on then check your ground and your power wire makes sure both are connected good and none of your fuse's are blown, either that or you got a wire hooked up backwards in the sub.. but my guess is that the sub is hooked up wrong... that sub should be hooked up in a series or in parallel,

ok if your running just one speaker, it should be hooked up like this and 2 speakers are a different way...

this is parallel :pos to pos , neg to neg, then one wire coming from pos on sub to pos on amp then neg on sub to neg on amp but bridge the amp on your amp should be 2 pos and 2 neg in two different channels take the pos off the sub into the pos on 1 channel and then the neg from sub to the neg on the other channel,

this is series : on the sub it will go pos to neg then the other neg and pos will go to the amp, but make sure the pos and neg r on different sides of the sub, dont hook them both to the same coil

if your need more help give me your email and ill send you a pic of how to do it...

sounds like the sub that throws it into protect mode is cross wired pull sub out and make sure they are wired right make sure ground from sub goes to ground on box and do same for power wire