3-way vent, 4-way vent on Samsung electric steam dryer... need pix of where ducts enter/exit machine so builder can cut holes in drywall. Pix are not in owner's manual... Does anyone have pix??

Are you sure you dont have a clogged Dryer Vnet?
If you are in the market for an Dryer Vent cleaning check out Dryer Vent Cleaning Dallas Tx.

Measure the amount of distance between your dryer and your venting exit point. This is how many feet of duct to buy. Note how many turns the duct will need to make, and purchase that number of 90-degree fittings. Remember that your venting exit point must be at least 1 foot above ground level, and that your path shouldn't be longer than 25 feet, with 5 feet subtracted for every 90-degree turn.

Drill a hole through the wall in the area you'll install the vent. This step is to test for obstructions. Look for the hole outside, and check for obstructions there, too.

Bore a 4¼-inch diameter hole into your designated and tested venting exit point, using your bi-metal hole saw on your drill. Start the hole outside of the house. Brace the drill against your leg to help keep it steady, and pull it out frequently to avoid overheating the tool.

Install your vent's cap by screwing it over the hole you just drilled. Caulk around any gaps.

Cut away excess length from a straight section of duct using your tin snips. Construct the entire length of your duct by snapping the seams together. Start at the dryer. Attach one end of your duct work to your dryer's exhaust point, which is at the back of the dryer. The pieces should fit together snugly.

cover the seams between your 90-degree fittings and your straight lengths with metal foil tape. Connect the last piece of metal duct to the cap you installed earlier. Every 5 feet, attach the metal duct work to the wall using metal pipe straps and screws.

Plug in your dryer and turn it on to test your work.

A common problem associated with these dryers is the blower wheel getting stripped out and slipping.
I looked up your model number.
I wrote a tip about this one and included some more pix HERE

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It could be the element,
the safety limits,
A burnt wire to the element, bad breaker or receptacle, or even the timer could have a burnrt contact in it. Here are some repair pictures:

General Electric/Hotpoint/RCA dryer repair pix Kenmore/Estate/Roper/Whirlpool repair pix Frigidaire/Westinghouse/Gibson/Kelvinator repair pix Maytag/Admiral/Crosley/MonkeyWards dryer repair pix


If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Hi, You can see it on this link.
http://www.samsung.com/us/appliances/washers-dryers-accessories/DV-1A/XAA

A bit difficult to do. If yo remove the back panel and look at the exhaust duct to determine if you can swing it 90 degrees to the other side?? It may be possible but you'll have to look. Then switch it to the other side. Then of course you will need to cut a hole for it to exit the machine. That's the deal to get it out the other side.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/craig_3fa289bf857b1a3c

Those 250 degree thermostats will fail frequently. That is why they come in the package with the thermal cut off. You can reset the thermal cut off by Slamming it on a hard surface, did you know that? What you need to do is determine the root cause of why that dude keeps blowing. The top 2 reasons that small puppy will blow is a stopped up vent and a stopped up filter housing. You will need to physically remove the filter housing to get it right. Take a look at these repair PIX

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Simply move the dryer back against the wall.
Take a straight edge and place it at the 12 o'clock position on top of the dryer vent. Touch the wall with the straight edge. Mark the wall. Cut a 4" round hole below the wall mark.
Adjust dryer levelings legs if necessary.

Cleaning the lint trap of the dryer may is not enough in some cases. I suspect you may have a problem with the vent ducting that extends from the the exhaust of the dryer to where it exits your home. The majority of dryer heat realted problems are due to poor ventilation and clogged vents. I dryer left in this condition will overheat to the point of failure. Not to mention, this creates a fire hazard and a habitat for rodents.

A simple test to determine if you have a dryer ventilation problems is to remove the vent hose from the back of the dryer and attempt to dry a load WITHOUT the vent hose attached. The air exiting the back of the dryer should be warm and forceful. If the clothes dry normally, then you need to inspect your vent ducting from where it enters the wall, to where it exits the home.

If the air flow is weak and your clothes still take a long time to dry, then you need to inspect the INTERIOR ducting of the dryer. Namely, the air blower housing. I suspect you'll find your clothes will dry better with the vent hose removed. Since it dried normally BEFORE you moved, and now it doesn't, you need to take a serious look at where the vent exhausts to. If the ducting runs through and attic or crawl splace they typically development sags, kinks and can clog. The rule of thumb when it comes to ducting: the SHORTER and STRAIGHTER, the better. Every bend you put into a dryer vent creates resistance to air flow, makes the dryer blower fan work harder and creates choke points where lint can accumulate and clog. Perform this simple prelimnary check and let me know what you find. I hope you find this advice helpful.

PS Do not run your dryer for extended periods of time without the exhaust hose attached. This will add humidity to your home and potential mildew. One load should be enough to determine if you have a problem. Don't run it this way as a normal everyday routine.

These are two styles that are common/The pix on the left is yours,mounted on vent chambers outside shell,in the center of this thermistor will be a small button thatyou push in to re set heat problem.