Compression testwhat is a good reading - kawasaki Fh680vgs24 23hp 23 Hp Lawn Mower Engine Motor ()

Low compression on cylinder number 1 and cylinder number 2 on a 2000 Toyota Solara 2.2L engine could be caused by a few different issues. Here are a few possibilities:

1. Worn or damaged piston rings: The piston rings seal the combustion chamber and maintain compression. If the rings are worn or damaged, they may not be able to seal the combustion chamber properly, resulting in low compression.
2. Damaged or worn valves: The valves allow air and fuel to enter the combustion chamber, and allow exhaust gases to exit. If the valves are damaged or worn, they may not be able to seal the combustion chamber properly, resulting in low compression.
3. Damaged or worn cylinder walls: The cylinder walls are what the pistons move against. If the walls are damaged or worn, they may not be able to maintain proper compression.
4. Head gasket failure: The head gasket seals the combustion chamber and prevents compression from escaping. If the head gasket is damaged or blown, compression can escape, resulting in low compression.
5. Leak in the intake or exhaust system: a leak in the intake or exhaust system can cause low compression.

The dry compression test you did on cylinder 1 and 2, 80 PSI and 60 PSI respectively, are not within the normal range and indicate low compression. The wet compression test results are also not within the normal range, 95 PSI and 85

Russ, not sure on factory compression, forums say motor should be good if running 100+, more important is to be with in 10% from highest reading to lowest compression reading. Balance is a key part for engine to run good. Check the attached links,instruction and guides, Good luck
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http://www.iboats.com/basics/find_engine_compression.html
Two problems with 1977 Evinrude 115HP Two Stroke Need some help The Hull...
One Cylinder down on Compression

I have same generator. Will not start. Good spark, good fuel, good carb. Compression is 60 psi cold. Is this good? Bad? I can't find anything on what compression should be.

I would do a compression test of the engine. Spend about $40 for the gauge tester and do it yourself. Engine should be at operating temperature, remove all spark plugs, disable ignition by grounding the high tension cable from coil to distributor, screw in the gauge to one cylinder, hold the gas pedal to the floor-or hold the throttle at wide open, then crank engine for about 5 seconds. You will have a compression reading that should be somewhere between 100 psi and 200 psi. Anything below 100psi means not enough compression in the cylinder to produce power when running. Do each cylinder the same-crank the same amount of time for each cylinder( with wide open throttle). All compression readings should be fairly close-lowest reading must be within 75% of highest reading cylinder for a good, healthy engine.

If compression is low in any cylinder, it probably won't even fire the air/fuel mixture. Look for valve problems, valves not sealing (burnt valves cause this), or piston rings worn too bad, head gasket failure can cause low compression. Example, compression tested a Nissan, and readings were all 155-160 psi in all cylinders, so compression was excellent, engine was internally good. If you have good compression in each cylinder, look elsewhere like a plugged catalytic converter-won't let the engine breathe, or a problem with the ignition system-test for a snapping, blue spark when cranking the engine, on one of the spark plug wires. Others: check EGR valve for being stuck open, good luck, then.

What is the compression reading. You have to check it with a compression gauge before you can say it has good compression. Check compression with a short hose 2 cycle compression checker. Don't use one for automotive, the reading could be off by as much as 35 psi.

It could be a problem in the valve train. For a car that old, before putting new parts in, you could buy a compression tester for about $30, and do your own compression test. It should tell you if the engine is good enough internally to warrant proceeding. If compression is low on any cylinders, that problem must be addressed first. If a valve is not sealing and causing the popping, that cylinder will show low compression.
For the test, the engine should be at normal operating temperature. Then pull all the plugs out, connect tester to #1 spark plug hole. Have a helper hold the throttle wide open while cranking the engine over about 5 seconds. Watch the gauge-the first revolution or two will cause the gauge to jump high at first, and successive revolutions during the 5 second span will cause the needle on gauge to climb a little each time. Record or note the compression on #1, then do each cylinder. Try to do the same amount of cranking on each cylinder, and keep the throttle wide open. What you want are compression readings on each cylinder that is well above 100 psi, and all should be close. The lowest reading should be within 75-85% of the highest reading cylinder. Example: say your highest reading is 135 psi. 85% of 135 is 115-so your lowest reading should be at least 115 psi. Some general guidelines: any cylinder with compression below 100 psi is definitely a problem-that cylinder will not have hardly any power output, even if it is firing. Worn piston rings or poor valve sealing is causing compression loss. A newer engine should have compression readings above 150 psi. As the engine wears, compression will drop. In general, for high mileage engines, you would want to see compression in the range of 125-150 psi, the higher the better, but remember, it should be balanced-the lowest should be at least 75% of the highest reading cylinder.
Post back if you have questions-good luck.

To test the compression of the engine, use a good screw in type compression gauge. Hold the throttle wide open and rotate the engine through six or seven compression strokes.

The manual says, "If the final readings are 90 psi or more and if the final readings do not indicate more than a 10% variance between cylinders, compression is considered normal".

Do a "wet" compression test as well by squirting 1/2 ounce of oil into each cylinder and redo the test. If the compression comes up considerably, a top end rebuild is probably in order.

At 8.5:1 compression ratio, 120 psi max.

Good Luck
Steve

A compression test will tell you if your engine has good compression. An engine is essentially a self-powered air pump, so it needs good compression to run efficiently, cleanly and to start easily.

As a rule, most engines should have 140 to 160 lbs. Of cranking compression with no more than 10% difference between any of the cylinders.

Low compression in one cylinder usually indicates a bad exhaust valve. Low compression in two adjacent cylinders typically means you have a bad head gasket. Low compression in all cylinders would tell you the rings and cylinders are worn and the engine needs to be overhauled.

HOW TO CHECK COMPRESSION
Compression can be checked two ways: manually with a compression gauge, or electronically with an engine analyzer the measures cranking compression. With electronic testing, a computer analyzer estimates compression in each of the engine's cylinders by measuring slight variations in engine cranking speed.

The results correlate well with actual gauge readings, and can be completed in a matter of minutes without having to remove any spark plugs. What's more, the analyzer prints out the results of the compression test making it easy to see and compare the actual numbers.

To check compression manually with a gauge, all the spark plugs must be removed. The ignition coil must then disabled or the high tension lead grounded. If the engine has a distributorless ignition, the ignition coils must be disabled to prevent them from firing. The throttle must also be held open.

The engine is then cranked for a few seconds using a remote starter switch or a helper while a compression gauge is held in a spark plug hole.

The maximum compression reading is noted, then the process is repeated for each of the remaining cylinders.

The individual cylinder readings are then compared to see if the results are within specifications (always refer to a manual for the exact compression figures for your engine because they do vary from the ballpark figures quoted earlier).

IS IT THE RINGS OR THE VALVES?
If compression is low in one or more cylinders, you can isolate the problem to the valves or rings by squirting a little 30 weight motor oil into the cylinder through the spark plug hole and repeating the compression test. The oil temporarily seals the rings.

If the compression readings are higher the second time around, it means the rings and/or cylinder is worn. No change in the compression readings would tell you the cylinder has a bad valve.

Hope this help (remember comment and rated this).

The standard compression for your honda would be around 175 psi the minimum would be around 135 psi. they should be the same new or old engine. and there not the same for all engines

The compressions you mentioned...Good?
No. Not at all.
Those compression reading indicate either really bad/worn piston rings, or valves that are not sealing properly, or both.
Normal compression readings should be at or above 140 PSI, +/5 5 PSI difference, no more.Save your money, and look for another unit. This engine is going to cost you a lot of money to make it right.