I wonder if anyone could identify the likely cause and solution of this, please. I noticed the fridge section was getting very cold and freezing items in the chiller tray at the bottom. The top half of the back of the fridge began to build up ice. I removed this and adjusted the temperature inside the fridge. I found the thermostat PCB behind this and was about to order a replacement, but then noticed that turning it down did seem to defrost and refreeze the back, and the extreme cold seemed to be from underneath, where the freezer is. Then I noticed that the fan in the top section of the freezer was always on. After defrosting to try to investigate inside the freezer and putting back on again, the temperature in the freezer plummeted to -24C no matter what setting the (fridge) thermostat was at. It's now on a socket timer 50-50 to keep it about right in the fridge for now. Is it likely to be a separate freezer section thermostat that's broken, or something else, and how can I fix it? The rear panel inside the freezer didn't seem to come off even with all screws out. I thought it might be frozen up inside, but I left it a fair while to warm up and still no luck. I don't want to yank it harder. The freezer was still frost free, but this has only just started. Bought 2011 (not sure if F-1 or F-2) Thanks.
SOURCE: Thick ice build up behind freezer fan
check door rubber,if is oblate heat it with fan,if it is ragged change it.
SOURCE: BEKO Frost free freezer not as cold as it should be!
Sorry I don't have a solution for you, however would like to know if you found out what was wrong. I have an identical problem with my Beko fridge/freezer. It's only 14 months old and the freezer just wont freeze. I've turn it off for 24 hour and let it defrost completely (even had the panel off to make sure there was no ice left). I've turned it back on again and it still wont freeze. Everything seems ok, ie fan blowing, motor running etc. I really am beginning to regret buying Beko. thanks
SOURCE: BEKO AB910 Frost Free Fridge/Freezer Ice build up
I have the same
model + problem. You should not need
to defrost this model manually if it's working correctly, but the ice build up you
describe is probably due to a blocked
pipe in the auto-defrost system at the back. You need to defrost properly to
prevent recurrence.
Behind the upper
freezer drawer there's an aluminium tray behind a plastic grille. Every few
days this tray warms up to melt any accumulated ice behind this plastic grille
(full height of the freezer). A pipe should take the meltwater down to a plastic
tray below (pipe + plastic tray are visible if you take the lower panel off the
back). Your problem is too much ice
blocking that pipe: the heater can't cope and it doesn't melt, so the ice 'cascades'
down the back behind the bottom drawer.
When you manually
defrost, you must ensure that this pipe is clear, otherwise the auto-defrost
won't work, and you may have to defrost manually again within days.
I have found that
the best way to defrost the pipe is to remove the lower back panel, disconnect
the corrugated flexible plastic pipe from the stub that comes from the bottom
of the freezer, + pump steam into the stub (gently) using a hand-held steamer (with
tube + nozzle). You don't have to empty the freezer or move your food as the
door stays closed, and no steam gets into the freezer until the pipe is
unblocked. Be sure to unplug the freezer before taking the back off! [There is a fan in this area that could start
up without warning]
Check how much of
the pipe is blocked by gentle probing
with a pencil: the aluminium tray is about 105mm above the bottom of the stub. This
measurement is important…
When the pipe is
clear, there may still be too much ice in the aluminium tray above (not sure
how much is 'too much') if you only created a narrow 'chimney' though the block
of ice (likely to get blocked again). You need to widen that chimney by melting
more of the ice in the aluminium tray. I use a simple steam nozzle made from an
old-fashioned Bic pen with a couple of 1mm holes drilled just below the
coloured bung at the end. This directs steam onto the walls of the 'chimney'
rather than upwards.
There's no point steaming
the walls of the plastic 'stub' pipe, so only use the home-made nozzle when
your probe reaches 105mm (i.e. when
you have melted all the ice in the plastic stub tube but before your 'chimney'
has broken through the block of ice in the aluminium tray). If you judge this
right, you'll melt almost all of the ice under a still-frozen top surface: no
steam will get into the freezer and your food will stay frozen. With a probe it will be clear when you've broken through the
top surface of the ice. When you have done so, it's time
to look inside the freezer to see how well you have cleared the aluminium tray.
It's perfectly
feasible to get all this done in 30 minutes.
Don't forget to
replace the corrugated plastic pipe + valve at the bottom. It stops humid air
from going into the freezer and icing up in exactly the area we've just been
defrosting.
Take a lot of
care with steam jets as they can burn you badly. You should check a first aid
website so you know what to do BEFORE it happens.
Some of these
tips may be helpful: (1) run the freezer at -18 degrees (the 'warmest' setting)
so it's not working so hard. (2) Leave a big gap (>100mm) between the back
of the freezer and the wall. (3) Clean the matrix of delicate tubes to the left
of the fan whilst you have the back off [a small bottle brush is ideal; remove
the fan for better access]. (4) Put something between the middle of the freezer
and the wall to prevent the warm air that's being blown out behind the fridge
from being sucked into the air intake behind the freezer (there is a baffle
built in underneath, but nothing behind. (5) Mount the fan on spacers (with
longer screws) so that it's closer to the heat exchanger… this means that a
larger area of grille can act as an air intake. (6) Raise the unit off the
floor a little to free up the air intake path beneath
the freezer.
POTENTIAL BEKO REFRIGERATOR FIRE RISK AND RECALL NOTICE
I would
normally give a pointer to articles I have already posted this response on, but
as this is such a potentially serious matter, I have posted my entire response
here for you.
According to
several sources I have checked, including most importantly, BEKO's own website,
the MODEL numbers (not serial numbers) affected by the recall are as follows:
CDA543FX
CA5411FFS
CDA752FS
CDA645FW
CA5411FFW
CDA752FW
CDA647FS
CA5411FFX
CDA752FX
CDA647FW
CA7014FFX
CS460FF
CDA648FS
CA7015FFS
CS460FFS
CDA648FW
CA7015FFW
CS460FFSD
CDA653FS
CA7015FFX
CS461FFW
CDA653FW
CDA539FS
CS461FFS
CDA653FX
CDA539FW
CSA4706FFX
CDA659FS
CDA539FX
CSB4606FFS
CDA751FS
CDA543FS
CSB4606FFSD
CDA751FX
CDA543FW
CSB4606FFW
The fridges
affected were manufactured between January 2000 and October 2006. After shipping and sitting around in shops,
you can probably extend that margin to machines SOLD between 2000 and 2008. The first 2 digits of the serial numbers
indicate the year of manufacture, so if your serial number doesn't start 00,
01, 02, 03, 04, 05 or 06 you don't even need to check.
If you go to
the BEKO website, there is a link to check your serial number:
https://refsafety.beko.co.uk/
The site also provides a mail address and a UK Freefone number that you can
call (Though I've tried the number and it keeps cutting me off!! I presume they
are swamped with calls)
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