Water leak from bottom of engine and using lots of water from rad

no year car told, age matters on all machines. all.
all cars run about 15psi , pure physics of hot water expansion and cap pressure regulated.
my guess is you mean the overflow tank on side of RAD,that has exploding steam and water to this side tank? "violently" that be gross overheating
lots of causes and lots of tests. to find it.

• bad thermostat ,10 years is like max. life.
• dead water pump.
• bad radiator
• bad RAD fan. dead. or dual fan 2nd is dead.
• low coolant, sure,after now but is no cure filled and tried. full up in rad dead cold 50%AF MIX.
• FANS BELT MISSING OR LOOSE. (TO PUMP)
• BLOWN HEAD GASKET OR WARPED HEAD(S) CAUSED.
• SIDE TANK HOSES BAD MORE MISSING SUCH THE EVERY COOL DOWN AF DOES NOT GET SUCKED BACK INTO RAD. MAKING IT DROP LEVELS OVER TIME.
• ALL WATER HOSES CAN LEAk or heater core. causing water loss and bingo overheats.

oVER HEATING HAS
Many causes, not 2 like in your post over 10
and many symptoms not just 1. in most cases.
its not a gasket,
what makes you think its overheating
1: steam? go that?
2: engine power loss and ping.?
3: gauge told you ? in cluster, some lie , is yours fibbing (tests)
4: water blasting out the side fail tank (expansion tank>?)
5: leaks to ground>?
6: leaks to passengers toes, heater core or its hoses there leaking.
7: over heats only parked, ??????????????
8: fan dead. (that newspaper trick not a real test) many fans are RPM operated, not simple heat locked, as you think. we use RPM optical meter to test fans.
causes.: lots.
A: thermostat bad, they last about 6-7 years and die all do.
B; RAD cores blocked, we use a $15 IR thermal gun aimed at all tubes top/bottom, and find dead tube with no effort at all.
C: pump bad, no its ok , its new.
D; fan belt slips.
E: fan dead, but would not over heat moving fast. so....
F: junk and crud packing a/c front of RAD, condenser, or RAD.
G:engine block full of MUD, from zero service and flushes in 20 long year.
H: cam belt slipped now timing way off, and huge heat load from poorly burning fuel (and late)hits cylinders walls, x4 and huge heat load on the water jackets and with 1 weak item above, pushes said camel off the cliff, is sparking timing right if not cam slipped a 1minute test with any timing light every made.

and more, lots more,
not running 50% AF?
running pure water> omg

IT COULD BE LOTS OF THINGS WRONG. RAD COULD BE STOP UP, BAD RAD. CAP..
A LEAK IN THE RAD. SYSTEM. LOOK FOR WATER LEAKS. RUN YOUR CAR UNTILL IT IS HOT THEN FEEL THE RADATOR ON THE INSIDE AT THE BOTTOM IF IT IS COLD THE RAD. IS STOP UP... CHECK THE FAN CLUTCH MAKE SURE IT IS WORKING .......
CHECK FOR WATER PUMP LEAK TOO.......

Hi, It says in your question that you have a 1995? Falcon Wagon. I assume you mean something like a 1965. I used to drive one from time to time when I was young and I loved it.
Anyway "Still Heats up".
My automatic response to that would be
1 Replace the thermostat as that is the very least expensive job and should definitely be kept up with. When a thermostat sticks, you get overheating.
2 Then I would back-flush the system to remove any rust in the block. Prestone makes a good kit to install, if you haven't done it already. On an Iron Block engine, you back flush the rust out of the engine till the water goes clear. I've put these kits into every vehicle I've owned since the time of your Falcon.
. After that, Would be to replace or rebuild the water pump. If it very old. The impeller, which may be made of metal may have deteriorated, rusted or simply wore away.
I hope this helps. Take care of that honey of a car.
Happy New Year,
Mark
P.S. Any questions you have, I would be more than happy to help on.

Check any bypass hoses that are around the engine for blockage or internal swelling. If the bypass hoses are restricted, warmup time will be extended. Even though the thermostat is new, the valve may still not be seating properly when closed and allowing some flow when engine is still cold and slowing warmup. Check by shining torch at thermostat valve seat to see if there any gaps. Most thermostats also have a little tickle valve in the outside rim, that is held closed by the water pump pressure but allow a trickle flow when engine is stopped for cool down. If this valve is missing or sticking, that will also slow the warmup process.

it could be a loos hose clip or the water pump, there is a gasket behind the water pump this could be leaking as well there is a quick fix you could try if its a clip or gasket leaking it should stop the leak,but it wont stop a water pump leaking ,,,,,,,,,,,
get some "rad seal" and tip it into the rad,,,not the header tank it go's right into the rad then top it up with water and run up the engine itll its hot after a short time the leak should stop,,fords put it in all there new cars and vans that come out there fatctorise,, so if its good for them to use it,, it must work?

could be a burr in the surface that the gasket seals to.os could be leaking down from some ware else.

There is no water jackets anywhere near the sump.You have a leak that is running down the side of the engine and appears at the sump.Let the motor sit and cool down.Top up the water and with a torch in hand,start the motor.The fans will push water towards the rear of the motor.Start looking.Best in the dark because you will see the shine of the water.Check thermostat gasket and around the water pump.Hope this helps

Remove and raise upper hose at thermostat end and remove lower rad hose.
Fill rad with a hose and watch for flow from bottom rad hose and/ or bottom rad hose connecton.......water should fall though rad easily.
Honda rads are cheap.....any restriction....replace rad.

Remove thermostat....fill thermostat housing with hose and watch for water flow at bottom rad hose.
Flush good.

Remove heater hoses.......flush back and forth until a good flow is present "With heater control set to hot" if no or poor flow....replace heater core.

Stop leak can plug everything.

Also.......not likely causing over heating....but ....at your mileage,if you do not know if the timing belt has been changed.....CHANGE IT NOW!
Water pump is optional at this mileage.

You might have a blown head gasket that is allowing one of your oil galleries in the engine to mix engine oil with the coolant after the oil pressure gets to a certain point. You might also have a cracked head causing the same type of problem.