Bad upper or lower inner race or missing bearings

remove wheel, brake caliper, dust cap, cotter pin, nut and washer, remove outer bearing. re-install nut a few turns and pull off rotor catching the inner bearing with the nut and pulling inner bearing out of rotor. remove inner and outer bearing races, install new races and grease surfaces of races and pack new wheel bearings with bearing grease and re-install in reverse order. wheel bearing nut tighten then back off and snug until you can put a new cotter pin through the holes of the nut and spindle hole and bend over the pin to lock nut from coming lose. caliper bolts/pins tighten.

If bearing races are removed, the bearings cannot be reused, they must be replaced.
1. Support motorcycle so front end is off floor and forks are fully extended.
2. Remove right side cover and remove maxi-fuse.
3. Remove headlamp and headlamp bracket.
4. Remove both front brake calipers.
5. Remove front wheel.
6. Remove front fender bracket with front fender.
7. Loosen but do not remove fork tube caps.
8. Loosen all pinch bolts on top and bottom triple clamps and pull fork tubes from triple clamps.
9. Remove brake hose bracket from the bottom of fork stem and bracket.
10. Remove fork stem cap and remove fork stem nut.
11. Lift handlebars from steering head with upper triple clamp attached. Be careful not to pinch or kink control cables.
12. Remove adjusting nut, seal, and upper bearing out of bearing race.
13. Pull fork stem and lower triple clamp from bottom of steering head.

4-Wheel Drive

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
   
2. Remove or disconnect the following:
   
   • Negative battery cable
     
   • Rear wheel
     
   • Rear brake shoes
     
   • Rear halfshaft nut and loosen the halfshaft from the hub
     
   • Wheel hub and place it in a vise
     
   • Inner wheel bearing race from the hub
     
   • Antilock Brake System (ABS) sensor bracket and move the sensor aside, if equipped
     
   • Parking brake cable from the steering knuckle
     
   • Brake line from the wheel cylinder and support the knuckle
     
   • Lower shock absorber nut
     
   • Lower ball joint by holding the ball joint stud
     
   • Upper ball joint
     
   • Coil spring while noting the location of the insulator
     
   • Steering knuckle cam
     
   • Steering knuckle
     
   • Snapring and press out the outer wheel bearing race from the knuckle
     

     Rear hub and bearing
     Click to Enlarge

To install:

1. Install or connect the following:
   
   • New wheel bearing into the steering knuckle
     
   • Snapring to the knuckle
     
   • Wheel hub
     
   • Steering knuckle cam and hand tighten the bolt
     
   • Coil spring
     
   • Shock absorber lower nut. Torque the nut to 85 ft. lbs. (115 Nm) for 2002-04 models; 129 ft. lbs. (175 Nm).
     
   • Upper ball joint. Torque the nut to 76 ft. lbs. (103 Nm).
     
   • Lower ball joint. Torque the nut to 76 ft. lbs. (103 Nm). Align the steering knuckle cam and torque the bolt to 85 ft. lbs. (115 Nm).
     
   • Brake line to the wheel cylinder. Torque the brake line bracket bolt to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm) and the brake line fastener to 11 ft. lbs. (15 Nm).
     
   • Parking brake cable to the backing plate. Torque the bolt to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm).
     
   • ABS sensor bracket. Torque the bolt to 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm), if equipped
     
   • Halfshaft nut. Torque the nut to 214 ft. lbs. (290 Nm).
     
   • Brake shoes
     
   • Rear wheel
     
   • Negative battery cable
     
2. Fill and bleed the brake system.
   
3. Check and adjust the wheel alignment as needed.
   

2-Wheel Drive

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
   
2. Remove or disconnect the following:
   
   • Negative battery cable
     
   • Rear wheel
     
   • Rear brake drum
     
   • Wheel hub nut
     
   • Wheel hub
     
   • Inner wheel bearing race from the hub
     
   • Snapring
     
   • Wheel bearing outer race from the knuckle
     

     Rear hub and bearing
     Click to Enlarge

     Rear hub removal
     

     Inner wheel bearing removal-rear hub/bearing
     

     Rear wheel bearing removal-2wd
     

     Rear wheel bearing removal-4wd
     

To install:
Install or connect the following:

• Wheel bearing in to the knuckle
  
• Snapring
  
• Wheel hub into the wheel bearing
  
• Wheel hub nut. Torque the nut to 214 ft. lbs. (290 Nm).
  
• Brake drum
  
• Rear wheel
  
• Negative battery cable
  

  Rear wheel bearing installation
  
  hope this helps if so send testimonial comment or even any other questions you have
  

Hey.. you NEED this manual... you WILL be glad you have it for future reference!
1976 1979 Kawasaki KZ750 Twin Motorcycle Service Manual

First, support the bike so that the front wheel is off the ground. Then, loosen (do not remove, just loosen them) the bolts that clamp the fork tubes into the upper and lower triple clamp braces. Loosen the front axle attachments to the fork legs. Now stand in front of the bike and hold the front wheel between your knees and turn the handlebars until they are straight - and re-tighten everything. Also, check the large nut on top of the steering stem, making sure it is tight.

There are two bearings on each front wheel, an inner and an outer bearing. Changing them is not hard if you are mechanically inclined. What you do is, jack the front end up to lift the wheel off the ground and put a jackstand to support the vehicle and put a block on teh rear wheels...DO NOT USE THE JACK ONLY!!!

Once the vehicle is up, remove the wheel to access the disc brakes.

Remove the caliper from the rotor and place it somewhere in the wheel well where the brake line will not be stressed...THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT...the job gets a LOT harder if the brake line breaks!

Next, remove the bearing cap to reveal the cotter pin and bearing nut, remove the cotter pin and nut DO NOT LOSE THESE!!!

You will see the outer bearing, remove it, the washer, and the race then pull the rotor off to reveal the inner bearing, race, and grease seal; remove these, DO NOT FORGET HOW THEY CAME OFF!!!

Clean the spindle and the rotor meaning get all the dirt and crud...this has to be squeaky clean or dirt will get inside and you will be replacing your bearings again in a couple of months.

Now, you need to pack the inner bearing with grease...what I do is wear nitrile gloves and scoop a handful of grease out of the container into the palm of my hand, then I take the new bearing and push it into the grease ensuring grease is in the bearing and coming out the other side.

Next install the grease seal, inner bearing and race by following the removal steps in reverse order. While you're at it, put a good amount of grease on the spindle...there is no such thing as too much grease.

Slide the rotor on until it makes with the inner bearing, make sure the rotor is on straight, if you can't get it straight the inner bearing is not on straight so do the inner bearing again to get it on straight and then put the rotor on...it should slide easily on with no resistance and rotate freely.

Now pack the outer bearing the same way you packed the inner bearing and slide it on the spindle. Install the washer, this will most likely have a tab on it to align the spindle, make sure the washer is on correctly.

Now you are going to reinstall the nut but only hand tighten it for now because you are going to have to spin the rotor forwards and backwards to ensure it rotates freely and is straight.

Once you determine the rotor is straight and rotates freely, tighten the nut about a quarter turn (no more than 16 foot-pounds). If the nut is castellated, ensure it is lined up with the hole in the spindle. Now install a new cotter pin...IT HAS TO BE NEW, using the old one increases the risk of the pin breaking which will let the nut loosen which will end up with your wheel coming off, most likely while you're doing 80 on the Interstate.

Once the cotter pin is installed and bent, fit the cap back on. The pin should be bent sufficiently to allow the cap to be tapped on.

Now reinstall the caliper and pads, put the wheel back on and you are done!

only if you bike is a gsxr 1000

Here's the steps....getting some pics for you....hang on a minute or two.

Front Hub Removal & Installation To Remove:

1. Remove steering knuckle.
2. Using a suitable slap hammer, remove wheel hub assembly.
3. Using a suitable bearing press, remove outer bearing, oil seal, outer bearing race and preload spacer.
4. Remove inner oil seal, inner wheel bearing and inner bearing race.

NOTE: It is not necessary to remove dust cover (back plate).
To Install:

1. Using a suitable bearing press, install bearing races in steering knuckle.
2. Pack the bearings and hub area with lithium grease.
3. Install inner bearing in steering knuckle.
4. Lubricate lip of NEW inner seal and press seal into knuckle.
5. Install preload spacer into bore.
6. Install outer bearing into bore.
7. Lubricate lip of NEW outer seal and press seal into knuckle.
8. Using an appropriate tool, support inner wheel bearing and press wheel hub into knuckle with a force of 2500kg.
9. Install NEW inner seal.
10. Install knuckle assembly.

The headstock bearings need to be replaced.

remove front wheel
undo allen screw or bolt securing headstem to fork
remove headstem and handlebars
undo lock nut & ring retaining bearings, at top of fork tube, do not lose bearings which may be loose.
withdraw fork from fork tube, do not lose upper bearing race
remove lower bearing from old fork
install lower bearing on new fork (I prefer replacing bearings)
remove brake caliper from old fork install on new fork
insert fork in fork tube
install upper bearing (I prefer replacing bearings)
install retaining ring and lock nut on fork tube, adust untill there is no wobble, but free movement, too tight the bearings will collapse too loose the rider will fall off
tighten lock nut
install headstem
tighten headstem allen key - bolt
install front wheel