Internal leak which is coming out from area above the swing out door (right side). Can I get a diagram of component parts which indicates how to open the machine to get at the internal parts? If I can locate the cause of the leak, i.e. a part that leaks and must be replaced, where can I buy the part?

Hello, Frazer -

Without knowing the make and model of you clothes dryer, it is a challenge to provide you with the precise directions for changing the swing of your dryer door. With that being said, this YouTube video may prove helpful to you: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VW9183PsCLc .

How did I find the YouTube video? Using Google I entered the following search statement, with quotation marks, as indicated: "clothes dryer door swing" .

This web page with written directions may also prove helpful:
http://homeguides.sfgate.com/change-dryer-door-left-right-66754.html .

Best wishes.

Here is a diagram to help.

Get hold of a service manual OR go to dealer and ask for photocopy of the relevant parts breakdown picture page.

Right side you have axle going through swing arm into a short spacer, through right wheel bearing, internal spacer, left wheel bearing out the left side through a longer spacer, and then the swing arm and then on the axle you will have a washer, cone nut and an "E" clip. Inside the swing arm ends you have the belt adjustment pieces that normally would not come out of the swing arm ends. And of course on the right side you would also have the brake caliper mounting and support arm.

REVERSING DOOR SWING
Your dryer is designed so the door swing may be reversed at any time without additional parts. Conversion is accomplished by transferring hinges to the opposite side of the cabinet.
To change the direction of the door opening:
1. Open the dryer door. Remove the four hinge hole plugs from the left side of the door opening. Place nearby for future installation. NOTE: You may need a plastic knife to help pull out the plugs. Be careful not to scratch the paint.

2. Remove the four screws that secure the door hinges to the dryer front panel (see below). NOTE: Remove one screw from each of the two hinges first. Hold the door firmly before removing the last two screws.

3. Rotate the door 180° and reinstall the door hinges to the dryer front panel with the four screws.

4. Install the four hinge hole plugs in the open screw holes on the right side of the door opening.

Hope this helped Tim

Hi. There seems to be a blockage within the system. I will list all parts to be checked by your mechanical. I would also have the blend door linkages or servos inspected for fail points along with the listed areas of concern, below:

Loose or broken drive belt
Inoperative compressor or slipping compressor clutch
Defective expansion valve
Clogged expansion valve, receiver-drier or liquid refrigerant line
Blown fuse
Leaking component: any of the parts listed above or one of the A/C lines, hoses or seals.

Instruct your mechanic to check all the above, along with the dash blend door linkages for faults.

There are three areas for paper jam clearing.
1. Under the scanner cover
2. At the rear of the printer is a small door with rollers at the top. it comes away from the printer from the left. There are some small pins to hold it in on the right. Swing it out to remove the door.
3. The cassette tray. Remove the tray to expose jammed paper or envelopes.

Here is the diagram for the rear door.

Do not touch any components inside the printer.

Good day,
First check to see if the machine is leveled.
Make sure it is if anything not tilted forward. Very slight to the rear is ok.
As well ( if we are talking about the fresh food door), make sure the machine is not tilted to the right.

If the leveling is ok, then check the bottom hinge on the door to see if the cam which aids in helping the door close on it's own is not broke. If that is the area where the problem is, with a complete model number from the machine in hand, go to any appliance parts house that carries GE parts.
They should show you a exploded view of the components and what components you need.

Check under the right side of the vehicle. look for green oil near right rear wheel area. sometimes the lines rub and start leaking. will have to replace lines if that is the case.

It is because the door actuator is bad in those doors.

Replacements can be found at the dealership for around $60 or on Ebay for as little as $10. Number 5/24 in the diagram below. Actuator part # Left Side 72155-S5P-A11 & the Right side 72115-S6A-J01.




Expect to set aside at least 1-2 hours on the first replacement, lesser time on the ones afterwards. Be careful not to push parts in directions that they shouldn't be pushed in. Don't break any plastic parts/metal rods or connections - take your time.

1. Remove the plastic tab under the inner door latch.
2. Open the 2 small black colored screws.
3. Carefully swing the door latch attachment out by moving it down and out. Remove the rod and the electrical connection - there's a slot to press and pull-out.
4. Use a flat screw driver to carefully pry the window opening plastic area (its one piece and includes the cup holder). Remove the electrical connection - there's a slot to press and pull-out. Open the screw beneath the arm rest.
5. Use a flat tool (I used a metal putty 5-in-1 tool) to slide between the door metal and plastic areas - pull the plastic buttons/connections off, you'll hear them pop. Slide the door out.
6. Gently open the white plastic sheet about a quarter of the way from the top right down so you can reach in the actuator area (near the door latch - at the end of door with 3 screws). Remove the window guardrail, if its in the way - use a 3/8 bolt.
7. Use correct amount of force, without stripping them, open the 3 screws at the door latch.(Best to use a Handheld Impact Driver)
8. Take a good look at the connections inside. Disconnect the electrical connections (two of them) on the lock actuator.
9. Gently but forcefully (without breaking any plastic or other parts), push the metal connectors back and carefully remove the door lock actuator assembly from the door.
10. Replace with new actuator and assemble in reverse.

To get to the ignitor, you must remove the front panel. To do this, first open the door and remove the two screws and plastic tabs that are directly across from the door hinges (left side if rt hand swing door and right side if left hand swing door). Next, support the door and remove the two screws from the hinges and remove the door. The front panel is now loose and will pivot down from the top out. Pull it out a couple inches then straight up and out of the way. You now have access to most all of the components internal of your dryer, including the ignitor. I know it's late, but didn't see an answer for it yet....and I have mine apart right now for the same problem (runs with no heat).