There can be short in the ribbon connector that connects the control panel to the rest due to some oily deposits. You can try to open it up, remove the ribbon, clean it and put back. It may take a few attempts to align correctly.
I am assuming your model is similar to mine.
SOURCE: the door sticks on my microwave oven
Usually this is due to loosened mounts inside the oven. The mounts hold the door switches and grab the door hooks when it the door is closed. The solution is to realign and tighten the mount screws inside. It's less liekly, but it could be a weak or worn door open lever inside. I only advise people to work on a microwave if they're fully informed and aware of the deadly hazards and necessary precautions.
SOURCE: Microwave runs with door open
I would say you have a failing door switch or the mount which holds your door switch is loose or broken. In most designs, it is the upper door switch that will produce these very symptoms when it is intermittent or its mount is broken or loose. Opening the door while cooking (without first hitting the STOP pad) is the primary cause of door switch failure. Slamming the door, damage during shipping or transportation and sloppy manufacturing techniques or materials are the primary causes of trouble with the door switch mounts. If you or a friend decide to work on it, we have *critical* safety, disassembly, and troubleshooting info (as well as a text file which helps in diagnosing and repairing door switch problems) at our site, which is linked at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk
SOURCE: 1800 XL JVM1860BD - won't work
It sounds like your controller may be failing. Or it could be an electrical line problem. Any other electrical itmes giving you trouble? Has anyone measured the voltage level of your power line? It should be around 110-125 volts AC. If it's significantly lower or higher, you may have a bad connection in your breaker panel or in the wiring leading to the home.
SOURCE: when I open my microwave door, it starts running
.
In most cases, it's not actually cooking, but instead the fan, turtable and light may be on. Yet it does need attention.
What this usually means is that you have a shorted door switch or a bad door switch mount.
It's easy to tell if it's actually cooking, just place a cup of water inside and see if it heats.
If so, that could mean a stuck relay on the control board. If so, we repair these for customers nationwide with our guaranteed $39.95 service. Far less than a new board.
If you or a friend decide to look into it, we have critical safety information, info on door switch diagnosis and replacement, and
disassembly information at our site, linked here on Fixya: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk
Please write back with more details if you need further help.
We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
SOURCE: Microwave won't START!!!!!!!!!!!!
It's usually a broken tab on the upper switch holder, allowing the switch to rotate
just out of position.
This tab
can be hard to see, since it is under the bottom edge of the switch.
While replacing the switch holder is the preferred solution, using hot glue to secure the switch to the holder is much easier and quicker. Just be sure not to let the door be slammed from now on.
We have the R1480 service manual for this model and have uploaded it to our site here to help you. You will need the free Adobe Reader to view or print it.
The best place to order Sharp parts is Tritronics.
We're happy to help you and we'd appreciate your
thoughtful rating of our answer.
Most likely
causes are an open thermal protector or thermal fuse but could also be blown
fuse in HV area of microwave (somewhat uncommon in domestic microwaves).
Less likely causes are failure of other parts in
the HV area.
If the main power fuse is located in the primary of the high voltage
transformer rather then at the line input, the clock and touchpad will work but
the fuse will blow upon initiating a cook cycle. Or, if the fuse has already
blown there will simply be no heating action once the cook cycle is started.
There are other variations depending on whether the cooling fan, oven light,
and so forth are located down stream of the fuse.
Some models may have a separate high voltage fuse. If this is blown,
there will be no heating but no other symptoms. However, high voltage fuses are
somewhat rare on domestic ovens.
A number of failures can result in the fuse NOT blowing but still no
heat:
A shorted HV diode, magnetron, or certain parts of the HV wiring would
probably result in a loud hum from the HV transformer but will likely not blow
the main fuse. (However, the HV fuse - not present on most domestic ovens -
might blow.)
Depending on design, a number of other component failures could result in no heat as well including a defective relay or triac, interlock switch(s), and controller.
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