Tottom direct power supply

ok you will need a 8 volt zenor diode and prob about 100 ohm resister to lower your current. if you can't build this then how about gettin a cigar ligher adapter for auto that has a voltage selector on it. and hard wire it up.

Suggest Don, that you check the voltage power rails in the Power Supply, first. Make sure the Power Supply is working correctly.

Power Supply voltages check out, look VERY close at the motherboard.
(Power unplugged to computer, Anti-Static Precautions taken, motherboard OUT in hand )

Reasoning?

http://www.e4allupgraders.info/dir1/motherboards/socketam2/ecsMCP61SM-GM.shtml

eMachines are budget computers. Nothing wrong with that. Problem is the manufacturer saved the consumer on the cost, by using two low quality components.

A) The Power Supply
B) The motherboard

Both of these come up for the BIOS Beep Code you stated.

Power Supply's are usually Bestec, Delta, or HiPro.
These particular generic units use low quality Electrolytic Capacitors, MOSFET's, Rectifier Bridge, less than adequate gauge of wiring, and so on.

The motherboards, (MSI, ECS, TriGem, etc), use low quality Electrolytic Capacitors.
This is generally the item/s that go bad first. They are the 'weakest link'.

Yes, Electrolytic Capacitors are the weakest link in the Power Supply, also.

In the Power Supply they are used as Filters. They filter the incoming AC electricity, (Input Stage), and the outgoing DC electricity. (Output Stage)

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Switched-mode_power_supply

I really feel the problem is the Power Supply.
Why?
1) If ALL of the LED lights were on at once, they would use less than 1 Watt of power.

2) EACH fan uses 2 to 3 Watts of power.

3) A typical Processor can use 51 to 125 Watts of power. Just depends on what Processor it is. (Older Intel Pentium III's, II's, and so on, use less power than 51 Watts. Same with older AMD processors )

(The PSU { Power Supply Unit} in your personal computer is a SMPS.
Switched-Mode Power Supply)

Click on the photo to the upper right, in the link above. The letter B is on the top of an Electrolytic Capacitor. You are looking at a Top View.
The blue ring is part of a plastic sleeve, which goes around the 'can' case of the capacitor.
These large capacitors are in the Input Stage.

The letter E is near a few more Electrolytic Capacitors. These capacitors are in the Output Stage.
These capacitors are Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors.
This is a side view of an example,

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Capacitors_electrolytic.jpg

The top capacitor is an Axial Electrolytic Capacitor. The leads come out of each end. The bottom capacitor is a Radial Electrolytic Capacitor. Both leads come out of the same end. The capacitors in your Power Supply, and on your motherboard, are Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors.

Your Power Supply converts AC electricity form your home, or business, and turns it into low DC electricity.

A) The 3.3 Volt power rail
B) The 5 Volt power rail
C) The 12 Volt power rail.
(In comparison two D cell flashlight batteries produce 3 Volts DC )

In the power cables coming from the Power Supply.
1) Orange wires are 3.3 Volts
2) Red wires are 5 Volts
3) Yellow wires are 12 Volts
(All DC voltage)
Black wires are Ground wires.

Now, about the voltage power rail.
All 3.3 volt wires (Orange), end in one central 3.3 Volt point, in the Power Supply.
The central point is the 3.3 Volt power rail.

Same for the 5 Volt power rail. All 5 Volt wires (Red), end in one central 5 Volt point, in the Power Supply.
Same for the 12 Volt power rail.

This means, for example, if you test one Orange wire, and it shows 3.3 Volts on the multimeter, the 3.3 Volt power rail is good.
Test one Red wire in a power cable. Shows 5 Volts, or VERY near?
The 5 Volt power rail is good.
Same thing for the 12 Volt power rail.

One method to check the 5 Volt power rail, and the 12 Volt power rail.
Use a 4-pin standard Peripheral power cable. (The connector on the cable is misnomered as a 'Molex' connector),

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#peripheral

Most of the time there is an unused Peripheral power cable.
You can use it's Red wire, Yellow wire, and Black wire, to test for 5 Volts, and 12 Volts.

Disregard the following if you are aware;
An economical multimeter can be purchased for around $5 to $12.
Available in a multitude of stores. An auto parts store is but one example.
Analog, or Digital, is fine.

The Red lead is the Positive lead. The metal tip is the probe. I refer to both as the Positive probe lead.
The Black lead is the Negative lead.

The Positive probe lead ALWAYS goes to the power wire to be tested.
3.3 Volt, or 5 Volt, or 12 Volt.
The Negative lead ALWAYS goes to Ground. (A-N-Y Black wire, is a Ground wire)

Computer sitting on a table, or workbench, computer case open, 4-pin standard Peripheral power cable, untangled, and pulled to the outside where you can access it easily, the computer is plugged into power.

The center knob in the middle of the multimeter, is the Function Knob.
It is set to DC Voltage.
If there are only symbols, the symbol is a dotted line over a solid line.
(NOT a curved line over a solid line)

If there is more than one setting for DC Voltage, set it to the 0 to 50 Volt scale.

Turn the computer on. Holding the connector in your hand, of the 4-pin Peripheral power cable, insert the Positive probe lead's tip, into the socket hole with the Red wire.

Hold the probe lead, with the hand that is already holding the connector. With the other hand, insert the Negative probe lead's tip, into the socket hole with one of the two Black wires.

Watch the multimeter. You should be reading close to 5 Volts.
Test the 12 Volt wire using this method also. (Yellow wire, and Black wire. Black wire is Ground. Either one of them)

The 3.3 Volt power rail is tested using the Orange wire, in the 24-pin ATX main power cable.

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#atxmain24

Power cable plugged into the motherboard, as in the photo to the right.
At the end of every wire, going into that long whitish connector with 24 socket holes, is a metal terminal.

The metal terminal is pretty far down in the socket hole. The probe lead must touch the metal terminal, but cannot due to it's size.
Use a straightened out paper clip.

The paper clip's diameter is small enough to slide into the socket hole, RIGHT NEXT TO the Orange wire, and touch the metal terminal.
Then the Positive probe lead is held against it. (Or with an alligator clip attachment, it is clipped on)

Do the same for A-N-Y of the Black wires. They are all Ground wires. Pick one. Insert a straightened out paper clip. The Negative probe lead touches it.
(Paper clips inserted, THEN computer turned on. It is only 3.3 Volts DC, but I want you to feel safe)

More in a Comment.

CPU fan runs, harddrive picks up, but no display.

1) Bad Power Supply
Or
2) Bad graphics chipset.

The two main factors for desktop computer failure, is a bad power supply, and/or the computer is dirty inside.

A) Bad Power Supply

Weak voltage power rail
Enough power to light LED lights, and perhaps spin fans, but not enough power to turn the Processor on.

IF all of the LED lights were on at once, they would use less than 1 Watt of power.

EACH fan uses 2 to 3 Watts

A typical Processor can use from 51 to 125 Watts.
Just depends on what Processor it is, as to what the maximum Wattage usage is.

CPU fan runs? Sure. It's only using 2 to 3 Watts.

Harddrive 'picks up'? You will hear the Spindle Motor spinning the Platters inside. Means nothing.

With no Processor running, BIOS can not hand the computer over to the Operating System. (WinXP is one example of an O/S)

There is nothing to find the Boot Record, on one of those Platters inside the harddrive.

(Explanation of physical construction of an average Harddrive,

http://computer.howstuffworks.com/hard-disk.htm )

You can check the Power Supply voltages out. See if there is a weak voltage power rail.

Power coming into the Power Supply is the dangerous voltage.
Power coming out of the Power Supply is not.

The Power Supply in your Personal Computer is an SMPS.
Switched-Mode Power Supply,

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Switched-mode_power_supply

Your Power Supply converts the electricity from your home, or business, into three main voltages,

A) 3.3 Volts
B) 5 Volts
C) 12 Volts

All are DC voltage. (The incoming electricity from your home or business, is AC voltage)
{In comparison two D cell flashlight batteries produce 3 Volts DC}

Use a multimeter to test the voltages. If you do not have access to one, an economical multimeter can be purchased for around $8 to $12. A multitude of stores carry them. An auto parts store is but one example.
Analog or digital, it doesn't matter. (I prefer Analog)

Set the Function Knob to DC voltage. (If just a symbol is used it is a dotted line over a solid line)

If there is more than one setting for DC Voltage, set it to the 0 to 50 Volts scale. (0-50)

The red probe lead is the Positive lead.
The black probe lead is the Negative lead.

The Positive probe lead touches the power wire
The Negative probe lead touches a Ground wire.

The 3.3 Volt power rail, the 5 Volt power rail, and the 12 Volt power rail, are the power wires.
Test one at a time.

ALL Black wires are GROUND wires.

Test at the ATX main power cable's connector.
The ATX main power cable is plugged into the motherboard. The Power Supply is plugged into power.

The ATX main power cable used for a Gigabyte GA-K8VM800M motherboard,
is a 20-pin ATX main power cable. This is an example of a 20-pin ATX main power cable,

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#atxmain20

Note the photo to the far right. The ATX main power cable is plugged into the motherboard.
Testing the voltages is done at the Back of the connector. Back of the ATX main power cable connector. The Back of the connector is where the wires go in.

The probe leads tips, will not fit down into the socket holes, next to the wires already present.
Suggest use an adapter. Suggested adapter is a paper clip.

The paper clip is straightened out, then inserted down into the socket hole, RIGHT NEXT TO THE WIRE that is already there.
The paper clip Must go down into the socket hole, to touch a metal terminal.

At the end of every wire going into the ATX main power cable connector, is a metal terminal. You have to go down past the insulation of the wire, and touch the metal terminal with the paper clip.

A) The Orange insulated wires are 3.3 Volts
B) The Red wires are 5 Volts
C) The Yellow wires are 12 Volts.

Example to test a 3.3 Volt power rail;

Power Supply unplugged from power insert a straightened out paper clip into a socket hole with an Orange wire. Leave it sticking up.

Now insert a straightened out paper clip, into ANY socket hole with a Black wire. (Ground)

Plug the Power Supply into power. Touch the red Positive probe lead of the multimeter, to the paper clip for the Orange wire. Hold it there.
Now touch the black Negative probe lead to the paper clip for the Ground wire.
(Black wire)

You should read VERY close to 3.3 Volts.

Same procedure for the 5 Volt power rail, and the 12 Volt power rail.

{Power Rail;
All 3.3 Volt (Orange wires), end at one central point in the Power Supply.
This central point is the 3.3 Volt power rail.
Same for the 5 Volt, and 12 Volt wires.

You can test any wire of that voltage, and be testing the entire power rail, for that voltage }

Power Supply checks out?
Graphics chipset.

Chp and Chipset are slang terms for I.C.
Integrated Circuit,

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Integrated_Circuit

The graphics chipset is a GPU.
Graphics Processing Unit,

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GPU

A GPU can be soldered directly to the motherboard, or to a removable card.

Soldered directly to the motherboard is Integrated Graphics.
Also known as OnBoard graphics. (ON the motherBOARD)

Soldered to a removable card is a Graphics Card.
(Full name is Graphics Adapter Card)

If you are using Integrated Graphics, try using a graphics card.
If the graphics card works, the problem is bad Integrated Graphics on the motherboard.
The graphics card bypasses using Integrated Graphics.

{The above is that you are seeing No Signal on the monitor.
If not check the monitor, AND the monitor cable to see if they are good. Test on a known to be good, working computer }

For additional questions please post in a Comment.

Regards,
joecoolvette

As you've noted you need two Black wires (Ground), and two Yellow wires (12 Volt),
for a 4-pin ATX +12 Volt power cable,

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#atx12v4

If you are not using the 6-pin PCI Express power cable,

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#pciexpress

,rob the 4-pin ATX +12 Volt power cable connector, and wires from the old power supply.

Splice the wires of the 6-pin PCI Express to them.

Note:
Orange wires are 3.3 Volt
Red wires are 5 Volt
Yellow wires are 12 Volt
Black wires are Ground wires.

You need two Yellow wires, and two Black wires.


Or if you have a spare 4-pin standard Peripheral power cable from the power supply,

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#peripheral

,buy and use an adapter power cable.
Example,

http://www.directron.com/p4atx.html

If you can provide the Make

1) So you tested the monitor on a working computer? Reason I ask, is that you will be testing the monitor cable also.

If it is a monitor with a detachable monitor cable, suggest you test the cable also.

2) Each graphics (Video) adapter card has it's own specific driver.
The driver should be installed Before, the graphics card is installed.

Otherwise Windows will 'break it's neck', to find a compatible driver, from it's thousands of generic drivers.
Won't do. You will get a driver conflict.

Windows: 'Which driver do I use? These or THESE?"

Kinda' hard to do, since you can't see graphics on the monitor.

I would like to suggest you diagnose the Power Supply to start with. (After checking the monitor cable)

It may seem that the Power Supply is okay, but it could have a weak Voltage power rail.

Enough power to light LED lights, and spin fan's, but not enough power to turn the Processor on.

1) ALL the LED's use less than 1 Watt of power.

2) EACH fan uses 2 to 3 Watts.

3) A typical Processor can use 51 to 125 Watts.
(Lower for older Processors)

The eMachines T6528 comes with an AMD Athlon 64 3500+, processor, that fits in a Socket 939 processor socket,

1) eMachines Support > T6528 > Specifications,

http://www.emachines.com/support/product_support.html?cat=Desktops&subcat=T%20Series&model=T6528

2) Information on the AMD Athlon 64 3500+,

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_AMD_Athlon_64_microprocessors#Athlon_64

Can use up to 67 Watts, or up to 89 Watts. Depends on what Core it is.
(Clawhammer Core, Newcastle Core, Winchester Core, Venice Core, Manchester Core, or San Diego Core)

(Also uses an MSI K8NGM-L motherboard. Below for specifications only,

http://www.newegg.com/product/product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130041 )

A) Not to down eMachines, (I have an old T1090 in my shop that works great), but they are budget computers, and use budget parts.
One being the generic Power Supply that is used.

B) The computer could be dirty inside, as well as inside the Power Supply.

The cooling components for the SMPS, (Switched-Mode Power Supply,) are it's Fan, and Heatsink's used inside.

Once a layer of 'Gunk' covers these cooling components, the cooling capacity drops tremendously.

Heat = Wasted Energy

The more heat, the more the Power Supply strains to keep up with the call for power.
Eventually hardware components inside the Power Supply fail, and the Power Supply is toast.

You can test the Power Supply voltages.
You can use a multimeter if available, or an economical unit can be purchased for around $5 to $12, that will suffice for testing.

You can also use a power supply tester.
One example:

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=5250576&CatId=5471

Voltages produced by the SMPS used in a T6528 are,
A) 3.3 Volts (DC)
B) 5 Volts (DC)
C) 12 Volts (DC)

Testing should be done on the 12 Volt power rail.
11 to 13 Volts indicates a good Power Supply.
Less than 11 Volts means it's time to replace.

Orange wires are 3.3 Volts
Red wires are 5 Volts
Yellow wires are 12 Volts.

All the color coded Voltage wires, lead back to one individual power rail, for each Voltage produced by the Power Supply.

You can test any Yellow wire to test the 12 Volt power rail.

With a multimeter, the Positive (Red) probe lead connects to the power wire to be tested.

The Negative (Black) lead connects to ANY Ground wire.

ALL Black wires are Ground wires.
They all go back to one central Ground source inside the Power Supply.

[Power Supply unplugged from power before attaching probe leads. After connecting, the power supply is plugged back into power, and the Power On button is pushed ]

(Two C cell flashlight batteries produce 3 Volts DC)

Even thought the plug in is 12 volt. It's ouput is different. Most electronics have different ranges from 3-9 volts.
Does the 12 volt charger put out 12 volts? If so, it would burn up the electronics' capacitors on their power supplies.
How is the car's electronics doing? Are they too failing? If so, that would be a faulty voltage regulator, if not, I would hook up anything you use to the radio wires.
You cannot plug in anything directly to battery no matter what the person told you. Batteries charge, than release charge, a contiuous cycle. The power output is speratic and anything hooked straight up to the battery will need a fuse.

You need to keep a supply to it. You can buy various devices that plug into your cigar lighter. The quite simply have one of these square 9 volt radio type batteries in them. This keeps power on while changing battery. You could easily make something up with one of these batteries and a couple of leads going to the terminals after loosening the bolts. Be careful though and make sure your wires are secure so the do not come off while wrestling with the battery.
Cheers John

The Quest charges on about 5 volts you have to plug the cigarette adapter into a 12 volt souce, the adapter then converts it to 5 volts. If you splice 12 volts directly into the mount the quest will not work because you burn up the circuits or the battery.