Torque on rocker nuts

have you got the correct push rods under the right rockers
some engines have different lengths for each valve

VERIFY your engine model numbers
Briggs & Stratton Intek V-Twin
Engine Model Numbers 407777 and 44P777
Cylinders 2 (Dual cylinder)

ITEM N m (Newton metres) lb-in Spark Plug Torque 20 180 Back Plate (to cylinder) 11 100 Blower Housing Screws 9 80 Breather Screws 6 55 Carburetor to Manifold 7 65 Cylinder Head Bolts 25 220 Cylinder Shield 7 65 Crankcase Cover 23 200 Engine Mounting Bolts 48 35 lb-ft Electric Clutch Mounting Bolt 75 55 lb-ft Exhaust Manifold 16 140 Fan Retainer Bolts 16 140 Flywheel Nut 203 150 lb-ft Armature Mounting Screws 3 25 Intake Manifold Bolts 9 80 Rocker Arm Adjustment Lock Nut 7 62 Rocker Support Screws 11.3 100 Valve Cover Cap Screws 11 100 Carburetor to Intake 7 65 Valve Clearance (Cold) 0.10-0.13 mm (0.004-0.005 in)
WARNING: Uneven tightening will warp the head. Tighten Cylinder Head Bolts down evenly by hand. Then using torque wrench tighten in sequence, in 9 N m (80 lb-in) increments to 25 N m (220 lb-in).
Intake valve push rods are aluminum.
Exhaust valve push rods are steel.
DO NOT interchange push rods.

Removal and Re-installation sequence for bolt removal and tightening.

bent push rods come from improper movement of the rocker and valve
This can be from an incorrect length push rod-- some v8 engines run different lengths for inlet and exhaust
from rocker arm jamming on the shaft or rocker ball
hydraulic cam follower pumping up and jamming the valve spring to a solid block
bent valve stem above the valve guide
valve spring Colette moved or misplaced incorrect rocker for that valve-- some engines run different length rockers for inlet and exhaust
what to do-- if this engine was running all right for some time then the rocker can be omitted. if the problem has been occurring since the cold weather the the oil may be too thick and not allowing the follower to leak down properly
check the follower or replace it , change to a lighter viscosity oil for the duration of the cold weather
unless you have had a recent head change or other mechanical work done the problem will be in those areas.

i need to know how to adjust the valves on 02 pont sunfire

I just got done repairing the very same engine with the same syptoms that you mentioned. I had considerable oil coming out of the fuel pump breather hole (copper colored mesh). The source of the problem: a blown head gasket. This will cause the piston, in the compression cycle, to pressurize the crankcase through the head gasket leak into the valve lifter chamber and push oil out the vacuum tube (bottom hose) leading to the fuel filter . To fix, you will need to first disassemble the cylinder head from the engine. To do that you first need to disconnect the three hoses to the fuel pump. Remove the cover to the air filter, remove the air filter and the screw in the bottom of the filter housing. Remove the four bolts attaching the plastic flywheel cover and remove the cover., remove the cylinder head (8 bolts)and check the head gasket to confirm it is blown (you will probably see some dark brown or black discoloration of the head gasket between the cylinder and valve lifter chamber. Carefully remove all old head gasket material from the block and head surfaces and clean the head bolts. If either your cylinder head or block surface looks ugly, you may need to get them resurfaced (flatness tolerance is very small ) Buy a valve gasket set (contains the head gasket and other needed parts)
Remove the valve rocker arm cover (4 bolts) from the head. Mark the exhaust and intake lifter rods (they are different) Clean the combustion chamber. If your engine has many hours on it, you will want to remove the valves and check the valve rims and seats for wear or pitting. You may want to hand lap the valves to insure they are seating perfectly.
I coated my head bolts with an anti-sieze valve lube compound. The B&S service manual calls for this. Reassemble head and torque head bolts to 220 in.-lbs. (4 stages) Do very accurately. Compress valve springs, install push rods and set clearances between rocker arm and end of valve stem. Turn flywheel to move piston so that both valves are closed before setting clearances. install a new fuel pump on the plastic flywheel housing. I removed the breather from the top of the engine (two small screws) and checked the reed and oil drain hole, and resealed the breather cover (you will need to pull the flywheel to get to one of the breather screws. I used a gray high-temp rtv liquid gasket compound to reseal the rocker arm cover and breather body. Reassemble all parts and screws and use small torques as listed in Briggs Service manual. I put in a new spark plug, changed the oil and filter, and breather tube, and o-ring at the bottom of my oil filler tube. That should do it

A rocker arm is the arm that sits on top of the valve stem and connects to the push rods 'the push rods sit on the cam so when engine is running, the push rods go up and down in a timed sequence and with the rocker arms, open and close the inlet and exhaust valves. the rocker arm is located inside the valve(rocker)cover .If the rocker arm gets loose or comes out.
Check the nuts on the shaft which holds the rocker arms.either the shaft or nuts are got loose.They need to be tightened.Don't make it too tight or too loose.  Too tight,and they don't flutter right. Too loose,and they allow the rocker arms to wiggle out of whack. Other possibility can be  something is broken, bent, collapsed, or out of adjustment. 
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to properly adjust, refer to the vehicles maintenance manual.

If that's a Briggs & Stratton engine, try this:

Valve adjustment for 28 and 31 Series B&S OHV engines done with engine cold.

The best thing to do is buy an Overhaul Manuel for this series of engine,
between $15 - $20..

Remove the valve cover. Remove the spark plug and turn the engine to TDC
(Top Dead Center). Now some people will say that there are 2 TDCs on 4
stroke engines. While the piston does come to top twice per combustion
cycle, the TDC referred to in all 4 stroke overhaul manuals, whether auto or
lawnmower, is when piston is at the top after compression stroke. Turn the
engine in the normal direction of rotation, watch the rocker arm action to
determine when the Intake Valve, the bottom valve, has just closed, use a screw driver in spark
plug hole to feel when piston is coming up and then at top. (A better idea
is a long pencil with an eraser, put the eraser end in spark plug hole) Per B&S
instructions, continue turning engine until the piston has receded ¼" down
past TDC. To do this, put a mark on screw driver (or pencil) ¼" above highest point
reached to tell when piston has receded ¼". You will need a torques head
screw driver bit for the locking screw on tappets. I would check to see that the Rocker Arm Studs are still tight in the head, they sometimes work loose.

The proper setting is Intake Valve - .003 - .005", Exhaust Valve - .005 -
.007". Use a flat feeler gauge between the Rocker Arm face and the Valve
Stem. These settings are critical as the Intake setting controls the operation of the Compression Release. I usually have to make 2 - 3 attempts before I am satisfied with the setting. When you think you have the proper clearance, take a hold of the Rocker Arm and move it by hand, side to side, etc, as much as you can and recheck the clearance
setting. The nut must be held while Locking Screw is torqued to 60 inch
lbs. I recheck the clearance setting again here. I would re-torque the head bolts while you are there.

I recommend removing and reversing the Intake Valve Push Rod when adjusting
the valves. If you remove the Aluminum Intake Valve Push Rod, you will see a
worn area down a little ways from the Rocker Arm end. This is from riding on
a fiber support rub block and the aluminum push rod will eventually bend or
break. Both ends are the same and reversing will prolong the life of the
push rod.

Note: IF you remove the push rod or any other rocker arm components, there
is a cap that sits on top of each valve stem, take care that you do not
dislodge and lose the cap. It is between this cap and the rocker arm that
you actually take your clearance reading but you will not notice there is a
cap normally. (Apparently, from the Overhaul Manual, ALL engines do not have
this cap)

Replace valve cover with new gasket, torque valve cover to 60 inch lbs.,
replace spark plug.

I have worked on many gx160 engines and have found that the most economical way to repair an engine with worn valves/guides is to replace the complete head with a clone usually available on ebay for around 60 bucks or so. A honda gx runs perfect with a new clone head. To repair the head properly you need special tools to cut/shape re-seat etc. Then when you consider the cost of honda parts and the chance of making an error, well even the best small engine mechanics make bad calls. However on the other hand, there is great pleasure in rebuilding an engine that has given you great service. Small engine parts/supply outlets like Rotary inc. sell valve guide cutter kit that comes with instructions. You should also use new valves and cut the valve seats.(another kit) If all you want is a great running motor, consider the clone head. Good Luck on your project.

Ok, lets see- I still have my old official shop manual for that bike...Cylinder head nut torque is 16-20 ft lbs,Cam sprocket bolt torque is 12-17 ft lbs, Valve adjuster cover torque is 7-10 ft lbs, Cyl head cover torque is (6mm)- 7-10 ft lbs (7mm) 9-12ft lbs, Rocker arm adjuster nut torque is 11-13 ft lbs.