Cannot turn on cooktop.

Most likely the switch for that element is defective, although it could also be the element itself that's bad.

Unplug the element from the receptacle and then disconnect the receptacle from the point where it plugs into the stove. Now, carefully, turn on power to this heating element. If nothing happens then you have removed the likelihood of a problem in the large portion of the stove's wiring. Next, plug the receptacle cable back into the stove without connecting the heating element. Again, carefully turn on the power to the heating element in question. If there is no spark then the cable, connector and receptacle are ok. If it does spark, replace the receptacle and cable assembly. No spark, then inspect the heating element where it connects to the receptacle. Look for melting or signs of damaged insulation that would allow for a "dead short". If you see damage to the element then replace the element. No damage, clean the connections with a toothbrush, and plug the element back in and turn on the juice. If it sparks again, replace the element. Good luck and be careful. Don't attempt any of this if you are inexperienced in working with electricity. 220 Volts can cause death or serious injury... just the flash from an arc can cause blindness and burns.

It's a piece of ****, replace it the first chance you get.

I hade a code 153 also. Changed the element(costly-$200) and had to recalibrate the pan sensors(in the manual). All works fine now.

You may have a cracked element, they expand when heated and cause a separation in the element. You really have to put a voltmeter on it to test it under load. If the voltage remains constant while the element is heating and cooling, then indeed you have a bad element.

If you don't have a voltmeter, or don't want to perform this test, buy a heating element and replace it, if you have the same problem, you'll have a spare element

Hi again,

It would seem you posted anew.

For some reason I could not locate related literature for a RCC3024LD01,although there are for LB01, LQ01 and a LT01. Most of the components inthese models could be checked with the use of a continuity tester(multitester VOM/DVM). The idea is to check for continuity of eachcomponent. If we are to assume that the heating element as a likelysuspect, it is a matter of checking if the coil is continuous, that isno break anywhere in between. The test prods of the continuity testerwould be applied to the two (2) terminals of the heating element andthe tester should deflect/display how much is the resistance. Normalreading shouold be pretty low while no deflection/reading indicates anopen coil and therefore would require replacement.

These additional documents may be of help to you:

1. exploded parts diagram;
2. parts list.

Cheers.

Hi,

Initially, it could either be:

• open heating element (most likely);
• open temperature limiter (least likely);
• faulty/loose connection/wiring (a possibility).

Please confirm that it is a Whirlpool RCC3024 Electric Cooktop.

Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information. Good luck and kind regards. Thank you for using FixYa.

no they are made to cycle that way they are halagen and cycle with a sensor dont work like the old coil ones do enegey efficent and hotter than old coils dont use them without a pan on them to reflect heat back to the sensor to prolong their life

The function 3 element are normal / depend to the intensity adjustment / the small 4th element are set for pre heating w/out burning , try to sdjust in lower adjusment or ann switch for pre heating.