Stitch length problem

If your Huskystar 207 sewing machine is stuck on zigzag stitch even when you have selected a straight stitch pattern, there are a few things you can try to troubleshoot the issue:

1. Check the needle position: Make sure that the needle is in the center position. If it is not, you may need to adjust it using the machine's settings.
2. Check the stitch length and width: Make sure that the stitch length and width are set to the appropriate settings for a straight stitch. Refer to your manual for the correct settings.
3. Check the tension: If the tension is too loose or too tight, it can cause the machine to sew a zigzag stitch instead of a straight stitch. Make sure the tension is set correctly for the fabric you are working with.
4. Clean the machine: Sometimes, a buildup of dust and lint can cause the machine to malfunction. Try cleaning the machine, particularly the bobbin case and feed dogs, to see if this resolves the issue.

If none of these steps resolve the issue, you may need to take your machine to a professional for repair.

in your manual on page 6 it has a chart for needle and thread combinations for fine or light materials. For your convenience I have included the download of the manual here. (see pdf page 16)
http://www.singerco.com/uploads/download/492_4228_4220_030707_new.pdf

When using lighter fabrics it is very important that you use the right thread and needle combo. Start with the correct needle and thread for your application then adjust the tension to match.

Good luck

it's very possible that the machine is slightly out of time & needs to be service at a sewing machine shop
is the fabric & thread & needle compatable with each other?
did you use every thread guide when threading the machine?
is the bobbin in correctly?
is the bobbin warped?

change needle the root of almost all problems!!!

Making a rolled hem on any overlocker is achieved in the following way:

use right hand needle only and top and bottom loopers. Turn stitch length down so threads are closed up (on mine this is 0.5). Your stitch length dial will be one on the right hand side near the flywheel usually. Loosen off the the top looper tension and tighten up the bottom looper tension (these are the right and 2nd right tension dials on front of the machine). On my Bernette I leave the needle at the usual 5, 2 on the top looper and 6.5 to 7 on the bottom looper thread. Move cutting blade position to the right so that you are trimming the fabric quite a bit wider than your stitch, this makes the fabric "roll" underneath inside the stitching to form the rolled edge or hem.

There is also another step that needs to happen where you change or remove a little stitch finger that sits in the pressure foot or just under it. On the Bernettes, you flick a lever to move this stitch finger back towards the operator so it is out of the stitch forming area. On some machines, it is a case of changing the little stitch finger which is screwed onto the pressure foot with a screwdriver.

I really don't know with your Necchi which it is but have a good look at the pressure foot, and around the blade cutting area and see if you can see a lever or check out the accessory bag and see if there is another stitch finger in there, it would be smaller than the one on the foot now. In effect, this finger sits out and the threads wrap around it to form your normal overlock but for rolled hem you want a much smaller finger in place to make a very little seam.

The other variable which makes a very neat job is to use a thread called "wooly Overlock" in the upper looper only. This thread when pulled under tension is tight looking but when you let it go, it fluffs out. So when seaming on a rolled hem it fills out the stitching and covers the edge of the fabric fully giving a smooth look. You can do it without but wooly thread makes a great job and you'll see it on all Ready to Wear seams usually for this reason.

If I am going to roll hem a fine sheer woven fabric like organza or chiffon I will change the needle to make sure it is nice and sharp and also ensure it is a regular point, not a ball point (I seam lots of knits so have ball points in most of the time on mine) Usually a size 80 is fine.

I hope this gets you going with your overlocker, I usually test stitch quite a bit with the stitch length at the normal 2.5 setting and adjust the looper tensions until I've got the stitch looking good, then turn it down to the very close 0.5, just to not waste a ton of thread.

Firstly check that you haven't got the thread ****** set for rolled hem, this is sometimes little lever on the sewing plate just in front of the foot. The stitch forms over this ****** for normal overlocking but it is retracted out of the way for rolled hemming. So if you've left it retracted, this will muck up the normal stitch.

Now for a four thread stitch, set all the tension dials to 5, after checking that all the threads are flowing freely from the spools to the tension dials and not catching anywhere. Ensure aerial is fully raised too. Stitch length on 2.5 and differential on 0. Test serge on a medium weight fabric and check the stitching.

Now adjust the cutting blade to fill out the stitch if you are getting looping off the edge. ie if it is looping off the edge move blade to the right a little bit so there is more fabric inside the seam.
And reverse if stitching is pulling up the fabric inside the stitching into a ridge, move blade left a little.

Test stitch again. Now if tension is still out, just adjust the looper tensions in very small increments to tighten up the stitches, only ever 1/2 a number movement on the dial each time and test to see what effect this has. Do top looper if it appears looser on top, lower looper if that one appears to be loose.

If the machine's tension dials have been calibrated correctly, then 5 on all should give you a half way decent stitch and you should be able to just finesse with the blade and minor adjustments on the top and bottom loopers. If you just can't get to this point at all, finger test the tension on the thread below each tension dial by pulling gently and see if they all feel like they are under the same tension, if one is way out then this dial may be faulting. Turn it to zero and see if you can clean it by "flossing" with a piece of clean waste cotton, then turn back to 5, rethread and try again. Sometimes they get a bit of thread or dust in there.

Hope this helps you with the overlocker.

Take it to the near sewing machine mechanic.

You can download a manual for your White machine from the Singer website, link is
http://www.singerco.com/uploads/download/1111_white-1760-xl-x.pdf

Here are the relevant pages from the manual:



Straight stitch settings as follows:
stitch length on 2.5 (selector marked with blue arrow)
stitch width on zero (no swinging of the needle) selector marked with red arrow
stitch selector on A - selector marked with green arrow

Generally all sewing machines will have a similar three controls, because all stitches are a combination of moving the fabric forward a certain amount between the needle going through the fabric - the stitch length; and moving the needle from side to side - the stitch width.

And then a stitch selector for different stitch forms such as a blind hem or shell stitch where the needle is going through a series of different moves in sequence to form a special stitch. You still have the width and length controls to vary this formation.

For general sewing machine information www.sewing.about.com is excellent, there is lots of pages on general tips, cleaning, threading up and sewing machine know how. Try this page to start http://sewing.about.com/od/sewingmachineindex/ig/Sewing-Machines.--9k/

If you are a beginner, then I'd recommend printing out the instruction manual for your machine and putting into a binder, placing beside the machine, and carefully read from the beginning going through all the instructions to wind a bobbin, thread up, three or four times until you can do it without reading the manual, then practice stitching out each of the stitches your machine does. Buy a cheap exercise book and on each page, write the name of the stitch, staple the stitch sample in and either write down the settings used or glue in a photo taken of the machine controls you used. This way you can quickly flick through and refer to your settings next time. ADjusting the top tension dial will also adjust the stitch formation so read the manual and set the tension dial to the setting it suggests but sometimes you'll need to adjust it slightly to get the stitch looking even (balanced between top and bottom thread), especially for zigzags.

Practice a bit and you'll soon feel much more confident using the machine. Also, refer to the cleaning and oiling instructions and do it regularly, along with changing the needle for each new sewing project, about 4-6 hours sewing time. The needle is the most important part of a sewing machine, always use the right sized needle for the fabric. Refer here for info http://sewing.about.com/od/sewingmachineindex/ig/Sewing-Machine-Needles/

I hope this helps you with your White sewing machine, there are lots of great sewing machine books on the market too or in your public library to refer to. Also taking beginner sewing classes will really help you learn how best to use your machine. I've been sewing for over 38 years but still enjoy going to a class and learning a new technique from another enthusiast - life long learner!!

Hello

Adjust the Stitch Length;

To make longer stitches, set the stitch length to a higher number. On many sewing machines, four is the longest possible stitch length and two is average.

To make shorter stitches, set the stitch length to a lower number. At a zero, the sewing machine may not actually make stitches, since the needle will go up and down in one place.

Cut a small scrap of fabric, preferably the same type you want to sew with.

Sew a few test stitches on the scrap. Examine the stitches to make sure they're the length you want.

Adjust the stitch length again as needed.