Gears for 737 demo hammer Gear that drives the cam is stripped

Without better information, I will assume you are saying the distributor gear has teeth missing or stripped. While replacing the gear is easy, you should first determine why it is damaged. You failed to mention what engine you are working on, but be aware that roller cam engines require a different distributor gear than non-roller types. In either case, bring the engine to TDC with cylinder #1 in firing position. This can be found by either putting a compression gauge in the # 1 spark plug hole, or have someone gently put a finger over the plug hole to feel when compression is pushing air out. Next, mark the position of the distributor body to the engine, and remove distributor and examine gear to find the roll pin which holds the gear in place. Set up some wooden block to hold the end of the gear without blocking the roll pin and using a punch smaller than the pin, hammer the roll pin out being careful to catch the pin on a cloth beneath your work. Obtain the correct replacement gear and install it on shaft using a small screwdriver to hold it in place. Check for excessive end play of distributor shaft and add shims if needed. Reinsert roll pin, then reinsert distributor, making sure that the rotor points to #1 plug connector on cap. The distributor will rotate some as it drops into place, so this may take more than one try. Note: if the distributor will not go all the way in, it may be necessary to use a flashlight and look down the hole where distributor goes to see the shaft the bottom of distributor must align with. You can use a long screwdriver to turn the oil pump drive shaft if needed. Install distributor hold down and tighten just enough to allow some resistance to turning distributor. Start engine and adjust timing.

Final note. Reasons for distributor gear damage include: stuck oil pump; bad cam shaft gear area, bad bearings in distributor or other distributor problem; and even a very worn timing chain causing crazy vibration (rare).

Frequently the problem for this is a plastic ring that has three pins in it. Normally the pins break through the bottom of the ring.
You need to take covers off. Strip SDS chuck. Remove plastic cap from end of drill then remove large internal retaining ring. Tap end of drill with mallet and eventually the tool holder will come out.
At the bottom of the tool holder there is a thin O ring (all this does is keeps a plastic gear and springs on the tool holder.) Remove this ring gear and springs can now be removed. You should now see the plastic ring (approx. 30mm long) Examine ring and pins, probably need to replace ring. This is usually the cause of not hammering, I have found changing seals works for weak hammering. Although having stripped the drill to this point I normally change the O rings on the hammer and piston. Rebuild is reverse of stripping be careful with the thin O ring not to snap it.

It sounds to me like there may be wear/broken teeth in the gears. Does it hammer OK? If not could be the teeth on the armature as well. You need to strip it and examine the gears for meshing correctly. If a gear has worn/broken teeth it is best to replace the gear it meshes with at the same time as replacing the broken gear or else you may find they break again after a short period.

Not sure about the JD 345 but in general if the fuel pump pushrod isn't moving, there's only one solution, I'm afraid, you'll have to partially strip the engine. Removing the rocker covers will enable you to see if the valve gear is operational. If it is it' s possibly the fuel pump cam or follower, if the valve gear isn't working then it's the cam drive, could be a broken belt or chain or a sprocket key has sheared. Good luck.

It sounds like the gears themself are stripped. On the inside of the drill right behind the head is a gear that turns the head itself. When that gear is stripped the head will spin sometimes withou pressure but when pressure is applied the head will not spin

The shaft from the motor to the drive gear is likely not working the action of the hammer. There is a gear which spins the gears to achieve the hammer action, suspect the gear is either stripped, broken or both.

Keys are removed using a small punch and a hammer. The punch of choice is called a ***** punch

Typically this is caused from improper timing. On that engine 3.8 v-6 most likely the timing gear is stripped and caused the chain to rotate.
The cam gear teeth is plastic, the plastic wears down (stripped) then the chain becomes loose which will change the timing which causes backfire when cranking over to start.
That engine doesn't have a distributor to check "top dead center" but the cam-sensor can be removed to look inside to see if the plastic gear is worn. I wouldn't recommend you doing this unless you know what to do. I would recommend to tow the car to the closest Buick dealership for inspection. If I'm right, you'll need to replace the timing gears & chain.

skil is owned by bosch :)
so i would have a look at the bosch site as this may well be a rebadged bosch demo hammer ( skil dont do them anymore )

http://www.skilmasters.com/service_onderdelenservice.php

hope this helps :)
if it does please vote

Hi,
!st gear, gears are stripped...
heatman101