Norcold DE704D won't switch to AC

Based on the information provided, it seems that the Norcold N611R fridge in the travel trailer is experiencing issues with cooling on AC power. The green and yellow LEDs are blinking, and the fridge stops cooling after running for a random number of hours. The gas cooling seems to be working fine, and the fuses, AC/DC power, and power board have been checked and replaced.

One possible cause of this issue could be a faulty heating element. To check if the heater is working properly, you can use a multimeter to measure the resistance of the heater. The resistance should be between 44 and 52 ohms. If the resistance is outside of this range, then the heater may need to be replaced.

Another possible cause of this issue could be a problem with the thermostat or temperature control system. If the temperature control system is not functioning properly, then it may not be able to maintain a consistent temperature in the fridge, which could cause it to stop cooling after a certain amount of time.

It is also possible that there is an issue with the wiring or connections in the fridge. If there is a loose or damaged wire or connection, then this could cause intermittent cooling issues.

In order to diagnose and fix this issue, it may be necessary to consult with a professional technician who has experience working with Norcold fridges.

Norcold fridges are now part ofThetford one of the largest suppliers of mobile and marine products. You do not quote the model so not sure if a 3 way (gas/mains/12v) or AC/DC. The most common problem with all mobile fridges is the heater unit is faulty. Thetford have discontinued spares for a large range of norcold models. Information can be obtained on the Thetfold.com website.
Good Luck

make sure the 12 volt side fuse is not blown

There is a 3 amp.fuse in the wiring behind the control panel or somewhere between the control panel and the terminal block. If the fuse is blown do not replace with any higher amperage rating more than 3 amps. Here is a Norcold 3163 Service Manual On page 10 of the service manual shows all of the components that the ac power goes through. Let me know what you find and I will be here to answer any questions you may have, Thanks Sea Breeze

To start with, if it's plugged in to a 15 amp breaker, and extension cord, the compressor starting up may just be enough to trip the breaker. It will draw close to 15 amps on start-up of compressor, and if there is a light extension cord used to plug it in, that only makes it worse. Make sure you shut all other breakers off in panel except AC, and try it. If you have water heater on hydro, fridge on hydro, and then try to start AC compressor, you'll be way over the 15 amps, especially if it's a light extension cord.
Keep in mind, in order for fridge to work, you need 12 volts DC (Battery) power going to back of fridge. If the controls aren't lighting up at top, you've most likely got no 12 Volt DC power going to fridge. Check all fuses as well.

no these units run on 12 volt aswell check your fuses or and be sure u are getting atleast 10.5 volts to that fuse

Hi,

This can be a problem on the control board or in the control switch, you better check this first..

For clarification may I know what model/maker that you have?

Thanks

It is possible that the switch is giving you fits. Easiest way to check is to find where the DC voltage goes to the circuit board. Put a meter across the connections and read the DC voltage.

A poor ground can also cause this as well, and is quite common. Remove the DC connections, and make sure that they are bright and shiny. Also make sure that the connections are tight, both in the wire, as well as any crimp connectors. Check for corrosion on crimp connectors in the sleeves, if possible.

Your 10second problem can also be attributed to another cause as well. The thermocouple electrode assembly is very sensitive to placement in the flame, as well as spacing of each "prong".

If you have a multimeter, also check the "AC" voltage as found on the DC supply. You should not have more than a few hundred millivolts of ripple (noise?) present. Very much more can cause erratic operation as well.

I had the same problem. In the menu, the image button was grey, and could not be hi-lighted, and the screen stayed blue. I was using the AC power cord. I plugged in the DC power cord instead, and it "woke" the unit up. I switched back to the AC power and it works fine. If you don't hve the DC cord that came with the TV, try andy 12 volt dc output cord with a positive tip.

Is there a switch so you can switch the unit to operate on ac? There might be, and it is switched to operate on dc right now.