Pilot light always burns light never comes on

Is this just a recent occurrence? Your pilot light may need to be replaced or cleaned. It's also possible that your switch may need to be replaced.

i have an ole reznor in my garage been workiing for ten + years no problems , mine is gas , the pilot light does go out after it switches to main burner like ten seconds later , but does light back up when thermostat shuts main off ( i had to go look to make sure) not a real big flame maybe like an inch or so , has a spoon shaped air shield around it , maybe yoours is missing ?

Look up product manual on internet.
Look at label located inside oven door, and add .pdf to search parameter to help find manual.
Then read section about lighting appliance.

If power is out, then pilot will not have any gas >> if gas control is electronic.
Many electronic gas controls require electric power to operate circuit board.

In old days, you removed the bottom tray on oven to access burner and pilot orifice. Then you pushed down switch to release gas through pilot tube, and put lit match into the gas stream to light pilot. Hold down switch until pilot flame heated tip of thermocouple which caused magnetic switch to stay open inside gas control. Release switch and pilot stayed lit.

Safety concerns and vast advances in manufacturing cheapness have changed gas appliances so they are more inconvenient for do-it-yourselfers during ordinary power outage.
Cook hamburger over metal bucket with newspaper, and grease on newspaper burns enough to cook hamburger.
People always buy generators and flashlights, but nobody suggest buying barbeque briquets and starter fluid as way to keep warm and cook.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Heat is the enemy of electricity, especially electronics.
The public doesn't understand how global warming is going to affect electrical devices including your phone, timers, detectors, and all electrical power.

If you research operational temperatures for small electronic devices, the upper range is usually 105-120 degrees F. Some can operate up to 135 degrees F, and will fail in higher temperatures because the circuit board, chip and parts are made to withstand certain temperature tolerances.
High temperature hardened devices cost more than typical box store electronic device.

There can also be a low temperature range that affects batteries and rechargeable batteries inside devices that have display properties.

Back to high heat: Electronics are limited by high heat.

Electrical transmission along power lines is limited because of high heat. Long distance transmission is high voltage and low amperage to reduce heat caused by high amperage.
(Super conductive materials, that allow limitless transmission without loss, must be at very low temperatures (absolute zero, etc))

And then at your house, the high voltage low amperage power line is changed to lower voltage high amperage at the transformer before it enters your home.
If you get serious electrical shock, you will get burned because electricity is Hot. The power line in electrical circuit is called the Hot line. So electricity is all about heat.
http://waterheatertimer.org/See-inside-main-breaker-box.html

Unrelated to electronics, but related to global warming: Even gas water heaters inside hot attic will lose the pilot light because the heat pushes air molecules farther apart, making it harder to breathe, and causing the pilot flame not to have enough oxygen to support combustion.
People should consider if we will be able to make small fires if global temperatures get hot enough.
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Attic-Ventilation-and-Pilot-Outage-in-Gas Water-Heaters.pdf

This means the short-term solution to your electronic problem is to open a window slightly in the garage.
Better yet is to install natural ventilation.
Install a vent(s) on the wall, down low along floor on shaded side of garage. Then install another vent(s) on wall near ceiling, or install a vent pipe to roof.
The combination of high-and-low vent will cause a natural flow of air through the garage. This is the same principle used to ventilate an attic.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

the pilot light always stays on, its designed to allow your heater to turn on by itself without you needing to light a match every time. if the pilot light is burning you have nothing to worry about. its when the pilot light goes out that a small amount of gas leaks into the room. and by small i mean smaller than a hand held lighter... if you still want to shut the entire thing down you could turn off the gas line feeding the heater or possibly the whole house, otherwise the pilot light will stay on. as far as the actual heater turning off, thats probably controlled by some sort of thermostat somewhere. if you set the temp to very cold it should stay off. if that doesn't work then you may need a new thermostat.

The pilot light has to be lit before gas valve will operate. That's a safety feature so the valve won't open and fill the garage with gas and possibly cause an explosion or fire. If you have a standing pilot and can't get pilot to stay lit, it's usually the thermocouple and it will need to be replaced. Once the pilot is lit, the gas valve comes on and heats the combustion chamber up to approx. 100° to 125° a thermostat controlled fan switch will close and bring the blower on.

The gasvalve has a pilot solenoid which is powered by in essence a thermocouple called a thermopile which converts heatfrom the pilot to to a millivolt output which is why you have to hold the pilot valve till it makes electricty. The main gas valve goes through a series of safety switches and through the thermostat so if any switch has a badoropen contact the heater will never fire find the bad part with a continuity tester and replace it.

A couple of things to check:

If possible, remove the pilot gas assembly and clean the gas jet and thermocouple - they can get carboned up and stop working properly. Make sure the pilot flame and deflector is aimed properly and making the thermocouple glow red hot. If the problem persists, you may want to replace the thermocouple and also check the propane regulator.

Have you tried to re-learn the remote? The instructions should be inside the opener cover.

the switch is broken, or the voltage on the power from the wall is lower than the voltage on the tank and therefore it could only powering one thing