50707 does not turn on, goes off immediately code 24, relay clicks

Ok Update (Captain's Log Stardate 9/18/2007)

Well my good ole Mitsubishi 50707 still exhibited the same problems with immediate shutdown during Power up and so I went along removing D456 and connector GP and then measuring voltages on pins of the vertical IC LA7845N. On Pin 7 as per schematics I was supposed to see +1.6 volts and I was seeing 0.6 v. So I suspect that it was a blown IC and so I went and ordered 3 of them (previous experience of blowing out components more often) for about $2.40 each plus shipping. So I replaced the IC and of course it did not solve the problem (similar luck like George Constansa, should bet on reverse things). So I then went through all my notes and the datasheet of LA7845N and then re-soldered all the solder joints around the Vertical IC. However still not sure whether I had solved the problem. Then I checked KB connector. All was fine. Then I checked DY again. Not the solder joints (I had re-soldered then previously) but could not see any resistance on the deflection coils for the vertical deflection connections pins 3 and 4 (could see 2.8 ohms on pins 1 and 2 for the horizontal deflection) I have may have the pins crossed as I am really tired and writing this log. So then I opened up the front from the speaker grill and checked the vertical deflection for all the CRTs. The red CRT did not show me any resistance. I nearly crapped in my pants. Did I have to replace the CRT? That would be an expensive situation and I was not keen to lug this sucker out for a garage sale.
So then I pushed in the solder iron behind the pins and heated them up an hopefully re-soldered them. It did show me resistance of 3.8 ohms after that and the DY did show resistance for the vertical defelection pins
(All CRT vertical deflection coils are in series so a total of 11.2 ohms). So there I knew was the solution. Well, put everything back, re-soldered all the electrolytic capactiors back ( I had taken them out of the vertical section cause I thought I would replace them as that was the only next step I could think off.) and voila the sucker came on and stayed on.

So troylove11 your earlier suggestion of checking DY holds good and I should have checked the resistance on the pins to make sure that the deflection coils were ok. Hey, so you get 5 stars (*****) from me man. What the hell if you were close-by I would have bought you a couple of beers.

Cheers!!! Ok Update (Captain's Log Stardate 9/18/2007) Well my good ole Mitsubishi 50707 still exhibited the same problems with immediate shutdown during Power up and so I went along removing D456 and connector GP and then measuring voltages on pins of the vertical IC LA7845N. On Pin 7 as per schematics I was supposed to see +1.6 volts and I was seeing 0.6 v. So I suspect that it was a blown IC and so I went and ordered 3 of them (previous experience of blowing out components more often) for about $2.40 each plus shipping. So I replaced the IC and of course it did not solve the problem (similar luck like George Constansa, should bet on reverse things). So I then went through all my notes and the datasheet of LA7845N and then re-soldered all the solder joints around the Vertical IC. However still not sure whether I had solved the problem. Then I checked KB connector. All was fine. Then I checked DY again. Not the solder joints (I had re-soldered then previously) but could not see any resistance on the deflection coils for the vertical deflection connections pins 3 and 4 (could see 2.8 ohms on pins 1 and 2 for the horizontal deflection) I have may have the pins crossed as I am really tired and writing this log. So then I opened up the front from the speaker grill and checked the vertical deflection for all the CRTs. The red CRT did not show me any resistance. I nearly crapped in my pants. Did I have to replace the CRT? That would be an expensive situation and I was not keen to lug this sucker out for a garage sale. So then I pushed in the solder iron behind the pins and heated them up an hopefully re-soldered them. It did show me resistance of 3.8 ohms after that and the DY did show resistance for the vertical defelection pins (All CRT vertical deflection coils are in series so a total of 11.2 ohms). So there I knew was the solution. Well, put everything back, re-soldered all the electrolytic capactiors back ( I had taken them out of the vertical section cause I thought I would replace them as that was the only next step I could think off.) and voila the sucker came on and stayed on. So troylove11 your earlier suggestion of checking DY holds good and I should have checked the resistance on the pins to make sure that the deflection coils were ok. Hey, so you get 5 stars (*****) from me man. What the hell if you were close-by I would have bought you a couple of beers. Cheers!!!

Just wanted to clarify that it was the Red CRT YOKE plug pins (vertical deflection pins) that was the culprit. A real pain to re-solder
but managed to squeeze in my soldering iron.

Regards. Just wanted to clarify that it was the Red CRT YOKE plug pins (vertical deflection pins) that was the culprit. A real pain to re-solder but managed to squeeze in my soldering iron. Regards.