Leaky head and quick shots

A stuck divert-er valve yes replace head, and know this will not cause leaks leaks,leaks are caused by o seals worn and getting old ..and olives on connections replace the above as needed some times a quick tighten with rench will do it leaks that is

Generally popping on deceleration is caused by a lean condition, or a air leak in exhaust manifold or intake manifold or corn boots. Check for intake vacuum leak around the carb flanges and any intake gaskets with a quick shot of carb cleaner while running. A leak will change the engine rpm. Listn carefully for exhaust manifold leaks and

Group head leaks can be caused by group gasket, portafilter basket (cup), valve, pipe fittings. Call back your service tech.
* Check group gasket and position of portafiler handle when pulling shot. The handle needs to point directly at you (your chest) if it points to your left shoulder or pops off the group then the gasket is worn, not correct size, missing spacer.
* If the handle points to the right shoulder then the gasket is, too thick, too many spacers, or it was installed without removing the old coffee (crud) from the group head and is stuck under the gasket. Remove and check group gasket and spacers.
* If the handle points directly at you but portafilter still leaks then check the basket (cup) insert. Many Barista's smash the portafilter on a bumper. If the bumper is worn and the metal bar is exposed then the basket insert will have a flat or dented lip. Check all your inserts for damage and replace worn bumper (a piece of water hose cut to size works)
* Still leaking? Remove cup tray above group and check group head for leaks around the pipes and fittings. Note: water discharge from bottom of group valve is normal DURING the pulling of a shot. It should not continue to drip water after pulling the shot.
* Still leaking? The group head needs to be checked.
* Pump, water lines, Water by-pass, Economiser, Hot water wand, and all the water fittings.
Aloha, ukeboy57 (youtube)

The games play as described by USAA:

• The mallet is gripped behind the knob using one's fingertips, not on top of it. This allows more wrist action and helps the player to move the mallet around the table faster.

• For basic defense, the mallet is kept centered at least 8 inches out from the goal. In this position, very slight movements to the left and right will block virtually all straight shots. To block bank shots, one pulls back quickly to the corners of the goal. This is known as the "triangle defense".

• Shots are often hit out of "drifts", where the puck travels in set patterns designed to throw off the opponent's expectations and timing. The most popular drifts are the "center", "diamond", "diagonal", and "L".

• Shots are often organized into "combos", meaning groups of shots which are hit with the same apparent delivery but opposite directions, caused by hitting the puck at slightly different locations on the mallet. For example, a transverse motion of the right arm can lead to a "cut shot" to the left corner of the opponent's goal or a "right wall under" (bank off the right wall, into the right corner of the opponent's goal).

Most cars have a void underneath ( inside ) where the wiper arms come out. It catches rain water off the windshield so that it doesn't run down the firewall inside the engine compartment where there could be some electrical stuff. There will always be a drain hose to drain that area , which can become pluged up with leaves etc. over time. If you can look around under the car , and possibly in the wheel well , you might find the other end of that drain hose. A quick shot of water at the car wash , backwards up the hose , is often enough to clear the drain. Otherwise you might have to open it up and clean it out. If that area became full of water , there are lots of places where it could leak through the firewall and into the car.
Of course , if the water is actually engine coolant , then I would say your heater core has a leak.

The bearings in the water pump are shot. This is why your pulley is shaking and screeching. If you are not careful it will lock down and break the serp belt and will run extremely hot, enough to warp the head and internal engine failure. Get this repaired quickly. The bolts don't have anything to do with the bearings gone.

sounds like the head gasket is shot, if its eating water and contaminating the oil, only way to be sure it to get a compression test or test it yourself, presure should be overy 100 psi and within 10% among the cylinders

antifreeze/water do not use 100% water, because water has a low boiling point, try and use 80ant/20water, antifreeze has a bit higher boiling point than water so wont get hot too quick. Fluid should not be blowing out any caps, unless when replacing new head gasket and it not seated properly as pressure also leaking out between the engine head through the coolant section and build lots of pressure blowing off the caps. make sure the fan also working properly. recheck your head gasket and its seated and torque the bolts to proper tightness, too tight it will crush the head gasket and too lose will also leaks as both it will cause the gasket not to seat properly. make sure you torque it to the specification, reason is allowing the everything to shrink when its cool and expand when it heat up. Bike motors get heat up very quickly due to its revolutions motor turning and lack of constant airflow and small radiator.

Hi
Sounds like you have a leak in the system. If your handy, you can remove the top. Remove everything. Water tank included. Unplug the machine. Now turn the machine upside down on a towel. There are 2 screws behind the brew head. Remove them, then lift the machine off the top and set it right side up. Now you can see the inside of the machine where the boiler is. Do not touch anything inside the machine. Replace everything and plug the machine in. Now turn the machine on and try to make a shot the same way. This should show you where your trouble is. Once you see where the trouble is, unplug the machine. Contact seattlecoffeegear.com, or 1st-line.com. They can help.

Well, when you set it that low it allows the water to pass very quickly and if the water passes very quickly there may not be sufficient time to absorb the coffee; hence weak coffee. The setting should be reset to the middle, at 10, and tried again. Then, if you want to change it move it only one or two numbers for enough cups to see if there is any change before you move it a large number. Going higher or lower makes it pass more or less quickly with results accordingly.
You may also have the dose set too low and you may want to set it higher increasing the amount of coffee in each dose.
Then again, since it was used, you don't know if the machine was taken apart by someone who reinstalled the machine with the dials you are using out of whack with where they should be set.

George W Conrad.