Ice is forming at the bottom of the freezer and freezing the bottom draw shut. it doesn't appear to be leaking and the door shuts properly. it's supposed to be a frost free freezer....

Have you checked that the door is closing ok and that the door seals are meeting the door frame all round?
Do the things that freeze sit at the top of the freezer? if so it could be
the coolant gas has slowly leaked out. A good indication this has happened is that the bottom of the freezer is a lot warmer than the top. To repair a serviceman will first cut the coolant pipe and drain (and capture) the existing gas and then recharge, re-pressurise and seal.

Cold air sinks. If evaporator temp is not low enough only the items on bottom of freezer will get cold and possibly freeze - stuff on top will not.
Throw a digital thermometer in there towards the top shelves and I bet your temps are high. Low refrigerant will cause this; furthermore, if you leave the refrigerator door open by accident, the refrigerator will never shut off, the freezer evaporator will freeze over with a block of ice, and the freezer temps will be higher. If that is what happened, simply unplug the unit and allow it to self defrost and then turn it back on for proper operation and make sure that the refrigerator door is properly closed!

It seems you have diagnosed your own problem.
Check the defrost circuit. It appears your defrost cycle is not working.
Also,check the door seals closely.
A loose or broken door seal can contribute to these symptoms as well

If there is frost forming at the bottom to the door, your door gasket is leaking at that location. You may be able to relax gasket back in place with hair dryer, be carefull you can melt gasket. If it is sheets of ice, your defrost drain may be frozen

The lower hinge on each door may have a door closing cam. It raises the door up ¼ inch when opening and this assist in closing the door. If it’s wore out and doesn’t work the door may not seal and the gasket can be damaged. Watch the operation of the door to see if it rises up when opened.

Leave the door shut and let the magnetic gasket hold the door in place. Put something between the bottom of the door and the floor to hold it in case it slips.
Remove the bracket holding the pin and hinge assembly taking note of order of removal of parts. Slide new cams on. You probably need two.

you probably have an air leak. if the gasket is bad it needs to be replaced. Air could also be coming in through the door flap if you have water and ice dispensor on door

looks like low on freon. that causes freeze up. oddly enough they freeze up when charge is low , just the opposite of what you think they would do. you have a freon leak unfortunately. probably not accessible, and therefore not repairable. i would suggest, cut your losses and buy new. unfortunately for me and all other srevice techs, the days of affordable repair are over, you can now replace cheaper than i can fix and have a warranty and its new... good luck

ok promblem 1 raise th front levelingm legs so that when the door is released from opening 1/3 of the way it shuts its self promblem 2 if the ice gets so thick it blocks the air intake of the freezer it cant cool your defrost drain is blocked its under the back panel in the freezer and needs to be cleared

Was the door left open for a long period of time.? Sometimes this causes so much ice that it re freezes and can't clear the drain. The only solution is to unplug and let sit with doors open for at least 24 hours. to get all the ice off the coils. Then use a pipe cleaner on the drain then use a turkey baster to force water through. then a mild bleach solution. Check the door gaskets if they are ripped or loose or the door warped and not sealing tight this will also cause this problem. If this still doesn' t solve the problem it is probably a defrost problem Usually the timer or defrost thermostat.

(Quated From Hoshizaki Technical Bulletin)
An alarm code of 3 beeps
every 3 seconds means that the control board has shut
down on the 60 minute freeze cycle back up timer.

The “E” control board has a 60 minute timer that starts at
the beginning of the freeze cycle. If the float switch fails
to open and start the next harvest within 60 minutes, the
board will automatically start the harvest cycle. If this
occurs in two consecutive cycles, the control board will
shut the unit down on the manual reset, freeze cycle
back- up timer. The yellow fault LED marked “60 min.”
will illuminate. This safety is designed to help prevent a
freeze up of the evaporator.

Once you have identified the 60 minute alarm, there are
several things to check. Reset the alarm by depressing
the white reset button to the right of the fault LED’s.
This must be done with the power “ON”. Now check the
float switch to see if it is stuck in the up position. A stuck
float can occur if scale is present on the reed switch
shaft inside the housing. To check it, drain the water
reservoir, unplug the black float switch connector (K5)
from the control board and check it with an ohm meter
for a closed switch (zero ohms). If the float switch is
sticking, clean it with ice machine cleaner or replace it as
necessary.
An inlet water valve which is slowly leaking by during the
freeze cycle can cause a 60 minute alarm. If the inlet
water valve is stuck wide open, it is unlikely that any ice
will form on the evaporator. Check for a slow leak by
allowing the unit to cycle into the freeze cycle and
disconnecting the hose at the outlet of the water valve. If
water leaks by during the freeze cycle, the water valve
diaphragm is likely damaged or the small diaphragm bleed
port is clogged with scale. Clean the bleed port or replace
the diaphragm or entire water valve as necessary.

(I Recommend to get a refrigeration tech for this part).

Another possibility is a refrigeration system problem. You
should use normal refrigeration diagnosis procedures to
check for one of these problems. If the thermostatic
expansion valve is not feeding properly or the refrigerant
charge is low, the evaporator will not form ice as it should
and a long freeze cycle will occur. This could also be the
result of the hot gas valve not closing completely during
the freeze cycle or if the compressor valves are weak or
inefficient. An inefficient compressor however, will
usually show up first on the KM model through a longer
than normal harvest cycle. This is because of cooler
than normal discharge gas. Use proper refrigeration
practices to repair a refrigeration system problem.
While these are not the only reasons for a 60 minute
freeze cycle, they are the most common and should be
checked to resolve a 3 beep/yellow fault LED alarm.