I HAVE BLINKING CHECK THE FILTER LIGHT. DRYER BLOWS COLD. TRYING TO SEE IF THERE IS SOMETHING I CAN RESET, OR CHECK THE HEATING ELEMENT. BUT CAN'T GET DRYER APART!!!
This gives you what you need.
http://136.166.4.200/contents/Laundry/DLE2532/DLE2532_Service_Manual.pdf
I have the same problem on the electric version. On the inside panel off the back is a schematic diagram. There are a blue and yellow wire going to one side on the heating element and a red wire to the other side. The red wire goes through two thermostats and a centifugal switch which is on the shaft of the motor that is closest to the back. I measured 100volts to the coil instead of 220. The red wire is the feed from the outlet.
The centifugal switch appears to be my problem. When the motor spins, a plunger contracts towards the motor and releases the switch which let current flow to the heating element. If the switch stays closed, then no current will flow. I had to take the entire dryer apart, the part was pulling the drum. After the dryer is unplugged, take it apart and you can by hand move the plunger. I'll be putting it together tomorrow after I put a little lube on the plunger. The motor has to spin pretty fast to get the plunger to pull in. Don't ask how i did it.
I'll let you know how it goes.
I finished took the motor out that spins the drum and put high temperture grease on the centifrugal switch. Tested it and it worked. I have put it back together and the wife has had no problems for the last two weeks.
The back panel does not come off. You have to raise the top panel and work from the front. The drum will have to be removed to get to the motor to work on the switch.
***Remember, the red 12-10 gauge wire going to the bracket on the motor is one leg of the 220, so there is 110v there when plugged in. BE SURE TO UPLUG BEFORE YOU WORK ON THIS!.
Hopefully this helps some of you. My dryer is the electric version. It took me about 5 hours to troubleshoot, take apart and put back together.
Good Luck.
Thanks will giver' a go. That sounds like the problem 220 leg not kicking in. Thanks and happy trails. Redbear
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I bought an LG dryer (gas) in Mar 2008, then in Apr 2008 I had the same problem you all are having. Apparently there is a sensor button, that when the dryer gets too hot, it clicks off. Of course that sensor button is under the drum of the dryer so a repairman needs to come out and click it back on. It is now November 2008 and I am having the same problem again, and have to wait 3 weeks for a repairman to come out! frustrating! I'm going to look on the LG website and see if there is some way to do this myself. You do need to be really good about cleaning the lint filter (which I do EVERY use)...but also, if you are able, I think it would be good to use a shop vac and **** out the vent from wherever the lint goes (ours is outside..) as we have noticed a lot of lint coming out of the vent. Hope this makes sense! :O)
I have the same problem. I have got my entire apart. If you need to know how to do that I can help you and if you have figured out the heat problem please let me know.
You may have a line down on your power 220 comes in one leg runs motor one heater if one line is down it will run if motor leg is getting 110 dryer will run but not heat if motor 110 is down wont do nothing reset your breaker before taking apart they can partialty trip then check out let for 220 last check power cord at terminal block before tear down
Clean the lint filter!
SOURCE: LG DRYER DLE2532W DISASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
DLE2532W is an electric heat model. (a gas model would be a DLG......) To get a rear control LG dryer apart: Open door and remove two phillips head screws at the 5 and 7 o'clock positions. Use a putty knife to release the clips holding the top panel to the dryer front by pushing the clips in at the seam of the dryer top and front, a couple inches in from each side. Swing top back. Remove two phillips head screws at the top, allowing front panel to pull forward. Unplug drum light and door switch and drum sensor plugs, allowing front panel to be completely removed and set aside. Now, look at the burner area at the lower right. Behind the gas valve you will find a small (about dime sized) high limit thermostat on the left side of the burner cone. It has two wires attached and has a small pin in the center of it. (Only on gas models) Push the pin in.
Now, if that get's you ignition again, CORRECT VENTING ! Get rid of flexible vent material. (use only rigid aluminum vent pipe and elbows) Clean out vent pipes and outside vent hood. Outside vent hood should be the kind with a four inch flap for the opening, not a two inch flap. Tripping of the high limit thermo is almost always caused by inadequate air flow.
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Same issue, I had to replace the entire computer board and it has know broke again after only 6 months.
Same problem, spons but blows cold air. Not the circuit breaker. Do I need to call a repair service?
Ck filter light WAS on but went out. Now, no matter what cycle I choose the COOLING light is lit on the panel, and the dryer blows cool. Gas dryers on this site with this problem show a reset inside the front panel, but do the Elec dryers have one as well; is the same place (lower right)
blinking filter light when i turn dryer on. dryer runs..does not heat up. Tried flipping the circut breaker in the garage. Tried unplugging. Still same problem. Anything else I can do before calling service..no warranty.
Dryer tumbles but does not heat. Not circuit breaker. Dryer 4 years old. Had fuse replaced in dryer by repair man. Worked one day then same problem. Gave lint catcher a really good cleaning. Dryer vent seems clean.
From site this seems like a common problem. Lady from LG repair said repair work on LG costs a lot and some people just buy a new one because it is cheaper. Does this sound right? After four years, I do not expect to replace my dryer.
Has anyone solved this problem?
Has
I have the same problem. Drum turning, but no heat. I can't get the back open! Where's the heating element and fuse?
Why wont my lg dryer model # dle2532w bot start?
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