Powers up and shapes the sound but no boost?

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Hello Hermando, I assume your truck battery is 12 volt. You would want to select 12v 2a for a long slow charge or 12v 6a for a shorter faster charge.

maybe you need to hit F8 and choose safe mode to get it back in shape then restart computer and see how that works

time to get a new battery eh?

Pull the battery out and have it load tested, sounds like the battery was on its way out to start with.

I'm not an electrician, but I do know that as long as the voltage matches EXACTLY (don't take the chance, most devices don't have a good resistor, or don't have one at all!), the current doesn't matter. I'll explain myself:
A consumer device (your scanner in this case) uses all the current it needed, and it practically doesn't need more! It take just what's necessary!
Connecting adapter which provide LESS is not enough, but more - isn't harmful!

Hope I helped,
Pelu.

CHECK THE FUSES AND CIRCUIT BREAKERS IN THE CONVERTER BOX. MAKE SURE THE 110V SWITCH BEHIND THE WATER HEATER IS TURNED ON. IF THERE IS POWER AND "ALL" THE 110V SWITCHES ARE ON, TIME TO OHM OUT THE HEATING ELEMENT, LOCATED UNDER THE BOX BEHIND THE WATER HEATER.
IN ORDER TO HAVE 12V AT THE CIRCUIT BOARD, 112V POWER HAS TO GO THRU THE RELAY. SOUNDS LIKE U HAVE A WIRING PROBLEM SOMWHERE, EITHER AT THE SWITCH OR AT THE WATER HEATER SOMEWHERE.

Apparently the monitor's power consumption is near or slightly exceeds the specified value.
My suggestion would be to purchase an adapter with higher rated output current - if for example your original adapter was rated 12V 4.5A, go for a 12V 6A rated adapter. A 30% safety overhead will hopefully contribute to higher reliability.

Hello labdes,

The "remote" terminal of the amp requires a +12V signal to rurn the amp on. Normally, this is supplied by a specific wire from the vehicle "head unit". But you can simply jumper it to the positive 12V source. + should go to the 12V positive and to "remote", - to the 12V negative. I'd wire a switch across the "remote" and "power" terminals to have a way to turn the amp on and off.

I'm hoping that your "car amp" has speaker level inputs, because the PC card is probably not going to have preamp outputs. If the amp has only RCA type inputs, you will need to purchase a LOC (line output converter) such as the PAC SNI-35 shown here. They are also usually available at your local car audio shop and some big box stores.

Hope this helps.

An equalizer and an amplifier are two very different things. The equalizer I have in my car only boosts the power by 12 Watts RMS, but that is not the point of it. I have the amps to power my speakers, and the equalizer for fine tuning the sound. You may want to see how much wattage this equalizer is going to add before you blame it. It may be doing exactly what it is supposed to do.

Please explain in more detail. You have a power INVERTER, from 12vDC to AC HOUSE CURRENT?

Or You have a CONVERTOR (aka Transformer) to CONVERT AC House current into 12v DC?
Your best option is to buy a battery charger, pull it in the backyard, and hook up the battery charger while you are listening. REMEMBER to use the ACCESSORY position on the key switch, to avoid possible damage to the cars ignition system! Leaving the Ignition coil charged (ON) for long periods of time without the engine running can cause it to overheat and possibly render itself useless.

Now you know what the ACC position is for on the automobile.

HTH,
Scott