The lift extended to far down and will not come up. need diagram to show how gear shaft connects to raise platform

You need to replace the belt that drives the elevator gear from the joystick.
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Hi,

the gear shift shaft/rod pushes down on a metal wedge inside the gear box this forces a dog clutch to engage a gear and transfer the engine drive to the prop shaft along the prop. A return spring keeps the dog clutch against the wedge so that when the shift shaft/rod is lifted the dog clutch disengages (neutral) if you keep lifting another gear is engaged, astern. Missing one of the gears, adjustment. No gears, shaft/rod alignment. Is yours direct mechanically hard linked or does a cable transfer the movement to the shaft? Check the top shift connections first, before taking the leg apart again.
Hope the above, windy reply is useful.

Owner's Manual available on eBay, but you may be better with a Service Manual.
This show an Internet search for 413 diagrams:

Google

diagrams I have show a twin cam set up with 2 balancing shafts. The marks on the cam shaft point to (left cam shaft 11 oclock the mark on the right point to the 1 oclock position. The chain will have 3 black links-- the top black links will be at the timing marks on the shafts with the 3rd black link directly at 6 oclock facing a mark on the gear. The balancer marks both point to the 1 oclock position with black links on each and the 3rd black link will be facing a mark to the 7 oclock position on the crankahaft gear. Everything is done with the piston at TDC no 1 cylinder so get it there before you put the cam shafts in position or you will bend valves. Crank shaft gear is not keyed to the crank shaft. there are dots on the right hand balancer shaft gears and these dots will be as the 2 dots on adjacent teeth either side of a dot on the meshing gear. I suppose that is all as clear as mud but if you got this far then you will see the marks and marked links on the chains

I had the same seat recliner/raiser problem and worked around it. There is a gear shaft that runs across the back of the drivers seat just behind the split between the seat and seat back. It is broken.

The motor that runs the gear shaft is located on the side of the seat closest to the drivers' door. It works fine but only moves the gears on the drivers door side of the seat. On the console side
of the seat the gear doesn't turn at all because the shaft is broken where it meets the gear on that side. You can see the end of the gear shaft on the outside of the seat hinge on the console side and if the shaft is broker it will not move when the lever is pushed to raise the seat back.

I removed the seat (basically pull off the plastic button covers, remove four seat bolts, and disconnecting two wiring harness clips) and I was able to raise the seat "manually" as follows:

On the very end of the gear shaft itself you'll see a small alignment groove in it that would normally align with another groove on the seat hinge frame. (I suppose when they are aligned, that is the factory setting for the upright seat back position)

I put a straight slot screwdriver in the groove on the gear shaft and used a hammer to drive the gear clockwise (to raise the seat back; you'd go counter-clockwise to lower it).
With each hammer strike the gear moved a little bit until the grooves were aligned. The angle of the seat back raised a bit with each clockwise movement of the gear shaft. (I actually went a little further than the alignment of the markers to assure the seat was raised far enough). When I was satisfied with the seat back position, I reconnected and rebolted the seat.

Anyway, the seat back is now raised to about where I wanted it. The shaft is still broken, of course, and the vertical motor is now bound up and doesn't work... so this is now my permanent driving position... but it's much better than driving with the seat reclined!
And for a 1998 Avalon XLS with over 300,000 miles, I can certainly live with that.

Hope this helps someone else. I'll be pleased to answer any questions you may have.

The old Horn lifts had vertical rails on the sides and the newer style has one center support. Push the lever up and press down on the platform to lower, push up on the lever and the platform should raise. If it binds, the plastic slides are broken or if the cables are loose, then the lift is likely broken. www.hornofamerica.com

Hello,

A feed system for a sewing machine having a frame, a horizontal arm shaft journalled in said frame, a vertical arm shaft extending downwardly from adjacent said horizontal arm shaft, means rotatably connecting said horizontal arm shaft to said vertical arm shaft, said feed system comprising a cam fixed to said horizontal arm shaft, a sheet metal feed fork having parallel bent over portions at one end thereof embracing said cam and in driving engagement therewith, a feed rock shaft supported in said frame and having an arm connected to the other end of said feed fork, feed regulating means carried by said frame and connected to said feed fork for converting motion induced by said feed cam to oscillations of said rock shaft, said rock shaft being formed with a pair of upright rock arms on the other end thereof, a horizontally disposed U-shaped sheet metal feed dog carrier having each end thereof connected to one of said upright rock arms, said feed dog carrier having a horizontal shelf extending from the base of the U between the ends thereof, said shelf supporting thereon a feed dog, means for attaching said feed dog to said shelf, a stud affixed to said base of said feed dog carrier beneath said shelf, a sheet metal lift lever pivotally supported on a horizontal axis in said frame substantially parallel to said rock shaft, said lift lever having a slotted end for engagement with said stud extending from said feed dog carrier, said lift lever having the other end thereof supporting a cam follower adjacent said vertical cam shaft, and a lift cam removably affixed to said vertical cam shaft and in engagement with said cam follower on said lift lever.

Take care.

I have a used unit with the same problem. If you remove the plastic housing piece on the far left you can see how the foot lifter works. Raising the lever raises a collar around the main shaft. There is a screw in that collar which connects the collar with the shaft. If that screw is loose the collar will not raise the shaft. Caution: Tighten the screw very carefully, only enough so that the shaft lifts. I just overtightened and the collar has a crack now.

If you have the model number (lift lid and model, serial # etc. are on the cabinet, you can go to the Sears parts site.

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?pop=true&modelNumber=110.26902691&pop=flush

Enter your model number instead of the 110.26902691

Then look under the heading Agitator, basket and tub.

The problem may be the "agitator dogs" (4 plastic pieces that allow the top agitator spin one direction only.

Beyond that, the agitator connects to the main drive shaft (with one bolt) in the transmission.

If you're reasonably mechanically inclined, and the problem isn't the dogs, you can pull and open the transmission. In it are a number of gears, springs, cams etc.

A Whirlpool manual (posted on a number of sites) gives a diagram and operating flow for the washer showing how the transmission works.

We had a problem with a lot of noise on our Kenmore and traced it to a plastic cam and follower in the transmission that wasn't lifting a gear far enough above the main drive gear so that we were getting a lot of gear clashing noise.

Go to: www.wescomfg.com/instructions/pedalift_seal_kit_with_pricing.pdf