Beko frost free fridge freezer keeps icing up around the fan in the freezer compartment stopping the fan turning have to scrape off every couple of daysneed to know how to stop this happening please

It sounds like the fan will need to be replaced.

"Always disconnect power before trying to repair any appliance."

Sounds like the defrost system of your freezer is not working. It could be either the defrost timer, defrost thermostat or the heater has a problem. The defrost timer turns off the compressor periodically to sent power to the defrost heater via the thermostat. The defrost heater then powers up and heats the evaporator coil to melt the accumulated ice buildup on the cold coils. Most likely issues are that the timer motor is not advancing the timer or the heater itself has burned out.

If you can pull the unit out from the wall, find the motor compartment. There, you'll find a black can with the motor and compressor inside it. This usually creates vibration when running. Check the compressor's mounts, to see if they need tightening or have rubber grommets that have rotted away. The sound could also be coming from a fan somewhere in the machine. There might be a fan in the motor compartment. Find the vents inside the unit that blow cold air. Check the guards to see if a foreign object could have made its way into the vents and jammed a fan. Make sure you unplug the fridge before you stick any hands or tools someplace they wouldn't normally go. You may want to let the unit run while peeking in with a flashlight to locate the source of the vibration, but beware of moving parts and a shock hazard.

Check the vents in the fridge side and close a little if you can. On the freezer side just for good measure>>>>
Is your circulating fan working?
Sometimes they stick and need a shot of WD 40 and then work
it back and forth a little until it wants to take off again. Keep me informed
and PLEASE give a Thumbs Up for the effort. The Raz Shack

It sounds like the freezer fan(evaporator) is wearing out. This problem is very hard to diagnose because the fan spins but no fast enough to circulated the chilled air thru the freezer and refrigerator. The parts and labor are around $300.00

check door rubber,if is oblate heat it with fan,if it is ragged change it.

I have the same model + problem. You should not need to defrost this model manually if it's working correctly, but the ice build up you describe is probably due to a blocked pipe in the auto-defrost system at the back. You need to defrost properly to prevent recurrence.

Behind the upper freezer drawer there's an aluminium tray behind a plastic grille. Every few days this tray warms up to melt any accumulated ice behind this plastic grille (full height of the freezer). A pipe should take the meltwater down to a plastic tray below (pipe + plastic tray are visible if you take the lower panel off the back). Your problem is too much ice blocking that pipe: the heater can't cope and it doesn't melt, so the ice 'cascades' down the back behind the bottom drawer.

When you manually defrost, you must ensure that this pipe is clear, otherwise the auto-defrost won't work, and you may have to defrost manually again within days.

I have found that the best way to defrost the pipe is to remove the lower back panel, disconnect the corrugated flexible plastic pipe from the stub that comes from the bottom of the freezer, + pump steam into the stub (gently) using a hand-held steamer (with tube + nozzle). You don't have to empty the freezer or move your food as the door stays closed, and no steam gets into the freezer until the pipe is unblocked. Be sure to unplug the freezer before taking the back off! [There is a fan in this area that could start up without warning]

Check how much of the pipe is blocked by gentle probing with a pencil: the aluminium tray is about 105mm above the bottom of the stub. This measurement is important…

When the pipe is clear, there may still be too much ice in the aluminium tray above (not sure how much is 'too much') if you only created a narrow 'chimney' though the block of ice (likely to get blocked again). You need to widen that chimney by melting more of the ice in the aluminium tray. I use a simple steam nozzle made from an old-fashioned Bic pen with a couple of 1mm holes drilled just below the coloured bung at the end. This directs steam onto the walls of the 'chimney' rather than upwards.

There's no point steaming the walls of the plastic 'stub' pipe, so only use the home-made nozzle when your probe reaches 105mm (i.e. when you have melted all the ice in the plastic stub tube but before your 'chimney' has broken through the block of ice in the aluminium tray). If you judge this right, you'll melt almost all of the ice under a still-frozen top surface: no steam will get into the freezer and your food will stay frozen. With a probe it will be clear when you've broken through the top surface of the ice. When you have done so, it's time to look inside the freezer to see how well you have cleared the aluminium tray.

It's perfectly feasible to get all this done in 30 minutes.

Don't forget to replace the corrugated plastic pipe + valve at the bottom. It stops humid air from going into the freezer and icing up in exactly the area we've just been defrosting.

Take a lot of care with steam jets as they can burn you badly. You should check a first aid website so you know what to do BEFORE it happens.

Some of these tips may be helpful: (1) run the freezer at -18 degrees (the 'warmest' setting) so it's not working so hard. (2) Leave a big gap (>100mm) between the back of the freezer and the wall. (3) Clean the matrix of delicate tubes to the left of the fan whilst you have the back off [a small bottle brush is ideal; remove the fan for better access]. (4) Put something between the middle of the freezer and the wall to prevent the warm air that's being blown out behind the fridge from being sucked into the air intake behind the freezer (there is a baffle built in underneath, but nothing behind. (5) Mount the fan on spacers (with longer screws) so that it's closer to the heat exchanger… this means that a larger area of grille can act as an air intake. (6) Raise the unit off the floor a little to free up the air intake path beneath the freezer.

hi i have same problem one of my lodgers left the door open and it froze thick with ice i defrosted it and let it dry for 3 days and was fine for a couple of days then it defrosted so i switched it of for 24 hours it worked fine for a day before it defrosted again could you email me with any help thanks [email protected] matt

There is probably an ice build up behind the plastic rear panel. The ice build up gets so thick that eventually, it obstructs the fan and then you get that loud noise as the tips of the fan are chipping away at the ice.
What you need to do is to remove the rear panel and thaw the ice build up. To remove the rear panel is usually only 2 screws at the bottom.....you will find that the panel is difficult to remove due to ice build up behind it, so gentle heat from a hairdryer is a good way to accelerate the thawing process....once the panel is removed, you will see the ice build up......mine was about 2 inches thick!!!
I used the hairdryer to thaw it all out and then once cleared, switched it back on and have never had a problem since.
By the way, my F?F is a Beko CDA563FS......the one with the water dispenser on the front and frost free.
Hope this helps

Yes, I think you have a problem that can be fixed easily by a repair technician. The sound as you described it could have come from the air circulation fan in the freezer compartment striking ice. As the ice builds up it could have stopped the fan from rotating and air flow to the refrigerator compartment.