Fuel tank Mt fuel tank has split at the top where it bolts on to mower Any ideas how , where, etc i can get this fixed. All the fuel evaporates when I leave it in the shed, and I need to Get this fixed ASAP. It's a yard king petrol mower 21 in blade about 18 years old, I know I Could buy a new one but my dad gave this mower and its still bloody good.

Question edited for FULL 'year make model'.
Question moved to the correct category from 'Fat Motorcycles'.

Remove the tanks with fuel pipes. Push a bolt or plug into the open end of the pipes and clamp with a hose clip. Fill the tank and see where the fuel is coming from? The most likely reason is a vibration crack somewhere or a split breather.

Other ideas here

https://www.google.com/search?q=2013+Harley+Davidson+FLSTF+fuel+tank+leaking

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Please check one among the following would stop the fuel from passing

• Missing fuel cap
• Defective or damaged fuel cap
• Distorted or damaged Fuel Tank Filler Neck
• Torn or punctured Evaporative system hose(s)
• Defective Fuel Tank Sending Unit gasket or seal
• Split or damaged Carbon Canister
• Defective Evaporative Vent Valve and/or Evaporative Purge Valve
• Defective or damaged fuel tank

Common Problems That Trigger the P0442 Code

• Defective or damaged fuel cap
• Distorted or damaged Fuel Tank Filler Neck
• Small tear or puncture in the Evaporative system hose(s) and/or Carbon Canister
• Defective Fuel Tank Sending Unit gasket or seal
• Small split in a seam of the Carbon Canister
• Defective Evaporative Vent Valve and/or Evaporative Purge Valve
• Defective or damaged Fuel Tank
• Defective Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor
• Defective Leak Detection Pump
• Slightly loose and/or worn clamps or hardened O-rings anywhere in the EVAP system

Common Misdiagnoses

• Fuel cap
• Evaporative Purge Valve
• Evaporative Vent Valve

Common Problems That Trigger the P0442 Code

• Defective or damaged fuel cap
• Distorted or damaged Fuel Tank Filler Neck
• Small tear or puncture in the Evaporative system hose(s) and/or Carbon Canister
• Defective Fuel Tank Sending Unit gasket or seal
• Small split in a seam of the Carbon Canister
• Defective Evaporative Vent Valve and/or Evaporative Purge Valve
• Defective or damaged Fuel Tank
• Defective Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor
• Defective Leak Detection Pump
• Slightly loose and/or worn clamps or hardened O-rings anywhere in the EVAP system

The fuel pump is inside the tank and is accessed from the top of the tank, so you'll have to remove the tank.
Disconnect the battery.
Remove the filler cap.
Drain the fuel from the tank(retighten drain plug to 20Nm - 14lbf after draining)
Remove the right hand rear fender liner.
Remove the tank under cover fixing bolts and remove the cover.
Disconnect tank wiring.
Disconnect the piping at the tank(Fuel filler, evap hoses, air breather hose).
The fuel supply and release lines are quick release. Supply has 2 tabs that need to be squeezed before the pipe can be pulled apart. The return line has a square block that needs to be pressed to split the line. The fuel lines may have residual pressure inside so cover with a cloth when releasing so you dont end up with fuel in your eyes. When refitting lightly coat with oil to aid assembly.
You can now undo the tank fixing bolts and remove the tank.(When refitting tighten to 36 Nm - 27lbf)
Once you have the tank on the ground you can remove the pump by undoing the fixing screws and withdrawing it from the tank.

Probably a fuel delivery issue. There is a brass bolt that holds the bowl to the carburetor on. It has an exterior washer, so don't lose. This bolt also is the main jet for the carburetor and can become clogged especially if old gas is allowed to evaporate in mower and no in-line fuel filter is used. Drain the fuel tank (or it will drain when you remove the bowl!). The bolt has very small holes on bottom and sides. Make sure they are clean and clear and the bolt is nice and cleaned up. Use no metal, and/or scraping on bolt. Reassemble (don't forget the carb body gasket) and engine should run if no other issues.
Please vote on this solution.

Disconnect battery ground cable. Loosen fuel filler cap. Support underneath of the fuel tank protector Disconnect evaporative fuel hose at the canister. Disconnect fuel feed hose and fuel return hose near the fuel filter. Plug both ends of the fuel hoses to prevent fuel leakage. Disconnect air breather hose and fuel filler hose at the fuel filler neck. Cover fuel hose to prevent any dust entering. Remove the four fuel tank assembly fixing bolts at four corners of the tank. Let down the tank and disconnect the wiring connectors Remove fuel tank assembly along with protectors Remove retaining cover and roll over & float valve along with the evaporative fuel hose and pipe Remove fuel pump and sender assembly by removing the snap ring with the fuel hoses Remove protectors by removing the six fixing bolts

check fuel filter first. rate as fixed if this helps.

Steel Midship, Aerostar
Removal and Installation

1. NOTE: Make sure fuel tank (9002) is properly supported during removal and installation procedures.
   Drain fuel from fuel tank .

1. Loosen fuel tank filler pipe clamp.

1. Remove fuel tank heat shield (9A032) from vehicle.

1. Support fuel tank .

1. Remove bolt from rear fuel tank support strap (9092) and remove rear fuel tank support strap .

1. Remove bolt from front fuel tank support strap and remove front fuel tank support strap .

1. Partially lower fuel tank to gain access and remove feed and return lines from sender ports. To disconnect push connect fittings, refer to Push Connect Fittings in this section.

1. Remove electrical connector from sender unit.

1. Remove fuel vapor hose from evaporative emission valve (9B593) .

1. Lower fuel tank from vehicle.

First check to see if there is a fuel shutoff under the tank. On some models there is a fuel filter screen inside the tank where the fuel line connects to the tank. If niether of these work, R&R the carb.

Replace Fuel Pump for 1997 Nissan Quest

(1) If the fuel tank has more than one third full, you need to get the gasoline out. If it has one third or less full, you can leave it in the tank. However be very careful around the working area. Make sure you have read fire precautions in a general repair book. Take the fuel pump fuse out from the fuse box near the battery. Run starter for a few seconds. This will remove the fuel pressure in the gas lines. Disconnect battery at negative terminal. Jack up the rear of the van.

(2) Remove the fuel tank protector.


(3) Disconnect fuel pipes at the front end of the fuel tank. Use short pencils and extra rubber hoses to block disconnected pipes and hoses.
There are two pipes connected to the gasoline filler at the side of the van. Disconnect only the smaller one. The larger one is flex enough for the tank to be lowered.

(4) Disconnect the electrical from this connector. Jack the rear end of the fuel tank with a car jack and a piece of 2x4. Put the wood between the jack point and the tank. Then unbolt the two bolts showing in the picture.

(5) Lower the jack after the bolts are removed. The rear end of the tank should be lowered.




(6) Disconnect fuel lines on top of the fuel pump. Reconnect each short hose back to different pipes as shown in picture to block the pipes.

(7) Loose the six mounting bolts on the fuel pump assembly. The bolts should be loosen a little at a time in multiple turns. Also detach the electrical wire holders. After all bolts are removed, carefully take the assembly out of the tank.


(8) Remove the fuel pump from the assembly as shown in picture. Then unplug the electrical wires. Note that two connectors are in different sizes, so that you will not be able to reconnect to a wrong terminal.

(9) Put the new pump and new filter in. Reconnect the electrical wires. If necessary use a pair of pliers to make the connectors tighter. Make sure they are not loose. Reconnect gas inlet to the pressure regulator.

(10) Use a new O ring, put back the assembly to the fuel tank. Make sure the float of the fuel level senser is free, and the assembly is at the right orientation (as shown in picture). Screw back the 6 bolts after making sure the O ring is in right place. The bolts should be tightened in turns. Do not over tighten them. Then reconnect the fuel lines and make sure every fastener is tight. Put the electrical wire into holders.

(11) Jack up the tank and put the two mounting bolt in. (see picture in step 4). Make sure they are tightened with specific torque. Reconnect the electrical connector.

(12) Reconnect two fuel lines at the front side of the tank. Refer to the picture in step 2. Reconnect the hose to the gasoline filler. Before you have a try start, double check if all fuel lines are securely connected and tightened.

(13) Start the engine. You need to crank more than a normal start because the lines were empty. The pressure is built up in some time.

(14) If engine starts ok, turn it off. Then check under the van if there is any leakage. If everything is fine put back the tank protector. (picture in step 2).