Thanks, I have used it for one season. I was shocked to see that as soon as I plugged it in it clicked or tripped. I first thought a fuse but realized it may be allot more seriously . I will try the compressor first, it does not sound like it would be worth keeping only paid $150.00 for the 12 k thanks DonThanks, I have used it for one season. I was shocked to see that as soon as I plugged it in it clicked or tripped. I first thought a fuse but realized it may be allot more seriously . I will try the compressor first, it does not sound like it would be worth keeping only paid $150.00 for the 12 k thanks Don
You can find the instructions on how to test compressor here=> Unplug the refrigerator and remove the back panel that covers the compressor. There should be 3 wires going inside the cover of the compressor. Mark all 3 and mark their location so if compressor is OK you can put them back in same order. The plastic cover may snap on and you may need to squeeze the sides to unlock the cover and sometimes there is a metal clip holding the cover in place. Remove the cover. May look hard but it's simple. There will be three connections under the cover and 2 will go through the start relay. Unplug them leaving the three prongs exposed. They may be marked R =Run, S=Start and C=Common. Set your meter on continuity and then begin by testing 2 at a time until you have checked S to R and R to C an C to S and S to R again. You should get a reading all the way around. If no reading between any of the pairs as you go around you should get no reading between any two the compressor has an open winding and is defective. Then if it passes that test then touch one probe to R and the other to the copper pipes or clean metal on outside of compressor, then S to metal outside and C to metal outside. If you get a reading this way even just a little. The compressor is a burnout. Then let me know what you find. Thanks, Sea BreezeYou can find the instructions on how to test compressor here=> Unplug the refrigerator and remove the back panel that covers the compressor. There should be 3 wires going inside the cover of the compressor. Mark all 3 and mark their location so if compressor is OK you can put them back in same order. The plastic cover may snap on and you may need to squeeze the sides to unlock the cover and sometimes there is a metal clip holding the cover in place. Remove the cover. May look hard but it's simple. There will be three connections under the cover and 2 will go through the start relay. Unplug them leaving the three prongs exposed. They may be marked R =Run, S=Start and C=Common. Set your meter on continuity and then begin by testing 2 at a time until you have checked S to R and R to C an C to S and S to R again. You should get a reading all the way around. If no reading between any of the pairs as you go around you should get no reading between any two the compressor has an open winding and is defective. Then if it passes that test then touch one probe to R and the other to the copper pipes or clean metal on outside of compressor, then S to metal outside and C to metal outside. If you get a reading this way even just a little. The compressor is a burnout. Then let me know what you find. Thanks, Sea Breeze
The test is the same for a refrigerator as above. If you have questions please let me know Thanks JTThe test is the same for a refrigerator as above. If you have questions please let me know Thanks JT
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Re: Fac127s1a. It trips as soon as plugged in ....
You will need someone to unplug, mark the wiring to compressor, remove wires from compressor and OHM the compressor to see if shorting to ground, Sea Breeze I believe it is shot!
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Unplug the treadmill from the surge suppressor and plug in a typical house vacuum.
Turn on vacuum. If breaker does not trip from the vacuum then treadmill power supply is likely kaput.
If breaker trips then likely it's not the treadmill. Bypass surge suppressor by plugging vacuum directly into same wall outlet as the suppressor. If breaker again trips, it's not the suppressor and more likely there is some type of circuit overload or other fault in the house branch circuit.
the outlet itself may be miswired with the line(hot) and neutral reversed. simple plug in tester will tell you if that is the issue, among other things. usually under $4 for the tester.
If it trips the circuit breaker as soon as you turn the FAN on, suspect either a bad fan motor or a failed fan motor start capacitor. If you are able to turn the fan on but the circuit breaker trips as soon as the COMPRESSOR starts, it is possible that the compressor is seized. If, on the other hand, the unit is tripping a GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter) breaker or GFCI utility outlet, it is possible that neutral and hot are reversed at the outlet into which the trailer is plugged (happened to me this year at an RV park).
I understand you want to know how to clean the condensation drain on your Frigidaire air conditioner, model# FAC127S1A. I see that the drain seems to be blocked, as water is collecting in the drain pan, and beginning to leak from the front. The drain hole is located beneath the compressor. You would have to get underneath that to clean the drain. You might want to try tilting your air conditioner slightly to the outside, to allow better water drainage. I ask that you please follow up with a comment on the post, at your convenience, to advise if further troubleshooting is needed or if your appliances status has changed successfully. Hope this is helpful.
GFI is Ground Fault Interrupter (or GFCI - Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter) It is doing its job, telling you that there is a short in the unit or wiring. Have a certified electrician check the wiring and unit.
Some units the cord is actually detachable, if you don't think this one is, contact your manufacturer to see if they offer a replacement cord that you can purchase. Some do, some don't.
try pluging it in on another outlet with an extension cord must be a diffent cerciut breaker if it happens again the microwave has a short. if not its that breaker or outlet.
Thanks, I have used it for one season. I was shocked to see that as soon as I plugged it in it clicked or tripped. I first thought a fuse but realized it may be allot more seriously . I will try the compressor first, it does not sound like it would be worth keeping only paid $150.00 for the 12 k thanks Don
You can find the instructions on how to test compressor here=> Unplug the refrigerator and remove the back panel that covers the compressor. There should be 3 wires going inside the cover of the compressor. Mark all 3 and mark their location so if compressor is OK you can put them back in same order. The plastic cover may snap on and you may need to squeeze the sides to unlock the cover and sometimes there is a metal clip holding the cover in place. Remove the cover. May look hard but it's simple. There will be three connections under the cover and 2 will go through the start relay. Unplug them leaving the three prongs exposed. They may be marked R =Run, S=Start and C=Common. Set your meter on continuity and then begin by testing 2 at a time until you have checked S to R and R to C an C to S and S to R again. You should get a reading all the way around. If no reading between any of the pairs as you go around you should get no reading between any two the compressor has an open winding and is defective. Then if it passes that test then touch one probe to R and the other to the copper pipes or clean metal on outside of compressor, then S to metal outside and C to metal outside. If you get a reading this way even just a little. The compressor is a burnout. Then let me know what you find. Thanks, Sea Breeze
The test is the same for a refrigerator as above. If you have questions please let me know Thanks JT
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