Question about Frigidaire Gallery GLEFM397DS Electric Kitchen Range
I have a smoothtop Frigidaire Gallery range. The oven does not heat up, but when I set the oven to heat up, it shows up on the display fine, the fan for the convection turns on, etc, but no heat comes to the heating elements. It is electric, not gas. The broiler doesn't work nor does the self clean. They seem to be working at the panel, but if you open the oven, there is no heat. The elements are cold. We checked the elements with a multi meter and they are in working order. But there is no electricity making it to these elements and there is no error. As far as the computer thinks, everything is fine, but it isn't. It has been like this for over a year. Please help! It was working one day and the very next day, it only got warm and the next time after that, there was no heat at all.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: get F5 error code. Burners
The f-5 code on the frigidaire ranges is a bad one. It is a ERC (electronic range control) failure. The repair manuals state to replace the control when the f-5 code shows up. You can also try to reset the control. To do this flip the breaker to kill the power, wait about 20 minutes then turn the power back on. If the problem returns then you will need a new ERC. The part number is.
#316418704 The price is $194.99 including shipping in the US. I do have these available to ship today. I hope this helps and please rate me when you can.
Posted on Sep 30, 2008
just input your model number here for a copy of the manual, located onthe inside of the oven door, or perhaps the side of the storage drawer.
Posted on Nov 23, 2008
Hello all with this oven not working problem!!! I had this happen and I found exactly what causes this to fail. The circuits operate in the following manner... The oven is controlled by a double pole single throw heavy relay (wired as a single pole single throw or simple off/on relay) that supplies power to 2 other relays.. The oven relay is a double pole double throw relay (6 contacts 12 volt coil, ) it is normally open circuit, that is when the main relay turns on the power goes to the oven relay but no further. The other sie of the oven relay is wired to a second relay connected to the broil element that is normally open circuit with the other side of the DPDT relay going to Leg 2 120 volts. So in normal off mode the broiler is connected to the one side of the relay, common is connected to Leg 2 and the other side of the relay is connected to the other side of the oven relay.
SO when you call for the Bake Oven element, the power goes through the main relay to the oven relay, the oven relay clicks and now connects the oven relay to the set of contacts on the broiler relay that is connected to Leg 2- now the oven turns on. When you ask for broil the oven relay turns off and the broiler relay tirns on connecting the broiler to leg 2 (bypassing the oven relay.
I know its long winded but basically to operate the oven the power goes through 3 relays where the broiler only uses 2 of the relays (not the oven relay) Kinda dumb way to do it I suppose BUT the idea is to never have a situation where the oven and broiler can be on at the same time.
Heres what happened with my oven.. the broiler relay failed (broke internally) and the common contact shorted across both of the other terminals momentarily turning on BOTH elements, the sudden inrush of current literally exploded the output contact on the main relay and vaporizing the lead, trace and solder joint.
It was a mess... badly burned.. I found a new relay (omron) to replace the main relay.. but the other 2 were Omrons that I could not find replacements for (12 volt coils is the issue) So I did find some potter brumfield relays that were rated 10 amps per pole so I wired these externally from the timer board (ran wires to them) (doubled up so each relay was using both sides in parallel so it can handle 20 amps) The elements only use about 8 amps each anyways this worked great and since the new relays are on spade terminals with quick disconnects, are easy to swap out of they fry again (doubtful) Its a forgone conclusion these timers are ready to fry at any time and I can almost guarantee the WILL blow.. the relays arent very heavy duty at all... I would not buy another of these.. pretty weak control.. expecially these small relays.
Good luck in your repair.. a new timer was 300 my repair was 50 and WILL NOT fail like theirs did.
Posted on Dec 28, 2008
Range does not heat (lights and timer do not operate).
This would indicate the range is not receiving the required 220 volts. Check house hold breakers or fuses, open wiring between the terminal block and the components, and the power cord.
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Posted on Jan 31, 2009
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