Installing shower doors

You should have a template in the kit for this. The web site will also have detail specifications.

Short of that (and I've been there) use a piece of cardboard. Trace the outside edge. Now make in inner circle the width of the flange area. Cut out the remaining center. Align it to the shaft on the wall and mark your cut line. Some of these have a single screw that attach the cover to the hardware in the back. Being a thin wall you may need to set back the plumbing tree to get the cover all the way in. If you are soldering the fittings be sure to remove the nylon sleeve first as the heat can damage it.

Please clarify - you said it's a pivoting door but also said it doesn't slide smoothly - can't really do both at the same time. If it's a typical bypass sliding door then you should be able to make an adjustment to the hanging brackets on the offending door to raise it up off the track. If all else fails the header track can be raised thereby making the doors hang higher and off the track attached to the tub surround.

Try looking at shower door suppliers, and glass companies that make shower doors.

The faucet was installed upside down.
The shower riser pipe in the wall is to short( the distance between the faucet and shower head).
One of the biggest problems is if your shower faucet was installed with Pex pipe to the tub spout. Pex pipe will restrict the flow and force the water back up and out of the shower head.
The tub spout must be piped with at least 1/2 brass pipe nipples and fittings, or 5/8 OD. copper pipe and fittings.
Hope this helps, if you further questions please let us know.

Good for you taking on this project. The first thing I will start with, is if you are not comfortable soldering copper then I would stop and call in a plumber to install the shower. If you have soldered copper in the past and are comfortable doing so then please proceed. Give yourself 2 to 3 full days to complete the project. You will need: Plumbing permit, available from your local munucipality. It will need to be inspected after the work is completed. Solder, solder flux and propane torch Heavy suede work gloves Water Spray bottle Pipe wrench Safety Glasses Hacksaw Deburring tool for copper pipe Emery cloth Tape measure Screw driver or screw gun Mounting Screws Old blankets 5 gallon pail 1/2" Copper pipe and fittings To begin we will have to uninstall the old shower. I find it helps to take photographs of the existing system so that you can see how the new one should go back together in case you get stuck halfway through the project and cannot see how to finish it off correctly. If you can access the shower from the other side of the wall, great. If not you will need to remove the shower surround or tile on the end wall where the plumbing is. Be sure to protect the tub with an old comforter or something to keep the tub from getting scratched up during construction. Before removing the old shower be sure to locate the shut off valves and close them. Turn both hot and cold on in the shower to remove any water pressure in the lines. Disassemble all the trim pieces of the old shower including the tub spout, handles, diverter and shower head. Take measurements of the existing piping to assist you when it comes time to cut and assemble the new copper. Do not reuse any of the old fittings. They will be very difficult to solder and new ones are very cheap. You should have 2 copper risers coming out of the floor, one cold, one hot. Cut them approx 12" above the floor. Repeat the same process for the tub spout and the shower riser. With all 4 pipes cut you can now remove the brass manifold from the 2X4 blocking. Disassemble the shower flange pipe from the copper shower riser. You should now have just the cut copper risers coming out of the floor. Use the deburring tool to clean the sharp edges where you cut the risers. This will aid in soldering the new pipe in and avoid you cutting yourself on the sharp copper while you work. To be continued.

Now that everything is apart it is time to cut all the copper to proper size and mount the brass manifold on the blocking within the wall. Take a close look at the drawings on the instructions. The plastic piece that covers the brass manifold will need to be flush with the drywall so that when you install the escutcheon plate it is also flush with the drywall. Be sure to test fit all the plumbing before soldering to ensure. begin by soldering the fittings that will screw into the manifold. Once this is done begin reconnecting the plumbing system. Again I can't stress enough that if you are not comfortable or have experience soldering copper to bring in a licensed pro. Nothing worse than completing the job and finding its either not up to code or worse leaks and you have to back over the job. Good luck with your project and let me know if I can be of any further help. Sorry it took so long to finish this. I was out sick for about a week right after I completed the first part. Good luck.

It's usually best to take the OUTSIDE door off in that case; and start from the INSIDE, then do the OUTSIDE. The track wheels MAY be reversed on IN/OUT, so watch how they hang in the track. When everything is off, it's a great time to scrub out all the "yuck" that grows down in there. Once that's all cleaned out, rehang the INSIDE door and get it going smoothly, then the OUTSIDE door. You're all set then.

Moen makes a cover plate to fit over the 2 handle holes. I don't know the number off the top of my head but I have used alot of them. It alows you to cut a large enough hole to gain access to the old valve and replace it with a new single handle.

When installing a flexishower head, install it in front of the actual shower head with a diverter switch. If you try to operate two shower heads at once, you may suffer poor water pressure. There are handheld shower sets sold which are installed to existing shower assemblies with ease. Rememer to use plumber's tape and protect your stainless steel by wrapping you pliers teeth in electrical tape.

curved cut glass will not always be the exact dimensions though they may look identical there should be several set screws on both the door glass frame and the shower glass frame that can be loosened and reset to make the door fit and close and open more properly without seeing the showwer itself i can not tell you exactly where they are but they should be either visible or behind a facade piece of metal frame

sounds like there may be some blockage in pipes. try to run a long snake through both drains or run all fixtures in bathroom and try plunging vigorously in tub and shower while running water. if nothing still, it may be possible that your underground plumbing is back graded or incorrect fittings and plumbing installation.