- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Purchase a replacement of the same make and model.
Disconnect the negative battery terminal. Disconnect the alternator taking note of the plug/wire positions.
Slacken off the belt tensioner and remove the belt, taking note of its routing.
Unbolt the old alternator and fit the new one.
Refit the belt and tensioner.
Reconnect the battery.
You have many problems.
1. For the fuel pump
i. Check fuel pump fuse in fuse panel.
ii. Turn on the ignition key to start position without engine cranking.
iii. Listen at the same time for 2 seconds if you can hear the sound of the fuel pump near the fill fuel neck (remove the fuel cap).
iiii. At the fuel pump relay place, a test light back probes the green wire or trigger wire with a test light. It is activated by the PCM (Powertrain Control Module) for 2 seconds (priming the fuel system). /When you start the engine, that same wire will receive a + signal but steady. Then you should find your fuel pump problem. (could be the fuel pump itself not working).
If you need to change the fuel pump.
You have to remove the fuel tank. When the fuel tank is halfway down (before removing the fuel pump) test the + signal at the tank (could be a wires problems)
2. The neutral light problem belongs to the neutral switch system (PRNDL) attach to transmission.
3. Starter Problem
i. Could be rusted positive and negative connections at the battery (Voltage drop in the + battery terminal should not be more than 500mv.
if more remove terminal and clean it. Same thing at the starter motor's end (Same thing with the ground at the Battery to the engine. if OK then the starter motor itself is the defect.
componet located directly behind the tank ? evap canister ! Do you know how to test automotive electrical ? How to read an use a electrical wiring diagram ? Use a DVOM - digital volt ohm meter ? Do you know what a FPDM is fuel pump driver module (computer) Your best bet take it to a qualified repair shop or dealer ?
Ford Electronic Returnless Fuel System Diagnosis Part 1 Ford
Jiggle the wire connectors going in to the computer under the hood -- first check battery cables/terminal connections at battery -- beleive it or not, connection could SEEM good because you get crank & lights, but if it's faulty, loose, engine won't start - computer requires good solid voltage flow.. next check a fusible link very close to the battery off of the positive cable. check fusible link carefully. this could cause your problem for sure.
Sounds like the body control module for the light issues,the fuel gauge works off of the fuel pump , sound like maby the wire come loose at the pump . temp gauge make shure after you replaced the intake gasket that you didnt get a wire to the temp sensor pinched or next to something that could have melted the wire,If the wire gets hot and melts it will go to ground and cause alot of the probs your having in the dash, cause the wire will ground out and send signal to the body control module which in return cause all kinds of beeps and lights to malfunction.If there is no short it is the body control mdule has gone bad and if replaced should fix your problem.