15200217 diagram model wiring

Hi p3rty8,
"Amp Grd" protect in other brand is an error code for short and overload. Once the power applied to the unit and shorts sensed by the processor the unit will automatically turned to "Amp Grd" to avoid further damaged to other parts. Most shorts is in the supply voltage (B+, Vcc) line and most common caused is the sound output IC (mounted in heat sink). This part is responsible for amplifying the audio from the pre-amplifier stage and will feed to your speakers.
If you have a knowledge in disoldering and soldering technique, I would advice you to pull-out this part and then try the unit. If the "Amp Grd" error code is gone then you must replaced this IC with a new one to back your unit in normal operation again.

Hope I helped you.
Have a nice day!
Thanks for using Fixya.

an oven in the kitchen is either 30a or 50a, 240v. there is a splice box usually in the back of the unit where the wires go. open up the palte and read the inside of the plate. if no diagram on the inside of the plate, then it is simple. 30a or 50a wire is 2 hot and a grd. the grd is green and it does not matter where the other 2 wires go, they can go on either of the 2 remaining screws or lugs. grd is always green.

do you have power going to both the red and yellow wires??? yellow is constant power (to retain memory) and red is switched (ignition). both wires need to see power before the unit will turn on.

I do not read anywhere that you have a 230V DPDT switch which you will need in order to select the high or low speed. You will have 6 terminalas on the switch. Line connections usually go to the middle set. Put put sides of one pole to the common terminal and put one of the other posts to the hi and the other to the low terminal. I prefer to use am on-off-on switch so the switch in the middle turns off the pump. Flip it one way for hi and the other for low. If you post your stock number from the two-speed motor I could give you a more accurate diagram if you need it. Generally, 1 is common, 2 hi and 3/4 low.

Orange-12v all the time
Red-igintion switch
Yellow- to lighting switch terminal
Black- chassic grd
Green-front L spk +
Green/black -front L spk -
Gray - F R +
Gray/black- F R -
Green/red- R L +
Black/green- R L -
Gray/red- R R +
Black/gray- R R -
Blue- Control to power amp if using.

ok on most amps there are two sets of wire ports one for speakers & one for +12v,grd & 12v remote start if you look over each port it will say what port is for what wire if it is in a connector it gets slightly more complecated what you do is with a vm check from wire to chassis ground [like seat bolts] 12v with key off when you cet power isolate wire then turn key on till radio comes on then do the same test for 12v isolate that will be remote start then turn key off &check from the first wire to other wire for ground to find speaker wires connect a regular peace of wire to chassis grd & touch the wires you will here the speaker pop be sure not to hold the wire on long cause it will blow the speaker

how do you know the unit has power?

what control do you have?

does it light up.

The blue one is switched because it has no power till you turn the key on This setup is on a Gold wing motorcycle with a intercom it is an elaborate setup The yellow wire shows a momentary grd every time you test it then nothing, no grd , no power

Do you have any connectors left intact? All you should need is the alternator power, grd, starter, distributor power, advance

Does the voltage at the battery drop when you connect 12v to the remote terminal?

If not, there is too much resistance in the power/ground wiring.

If the voltage drops at the battery, either the battery is weak or the amp is drawing excessive current.