Question about GE Freezers

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Ge gsl25jfta bs

Evaporator coils freezing up. Heater ohms out at ~22ohms. Temp sensor (after thawing) was around 42Kohms if I remember correctly. Defrost thermostat was open (after thawing). Evap Fan/motor working. I've let it run for about 20 minutes, and the bottom third of the coils have frosted over. Could this indicate a low charge situation?

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  • 286 Answers

Http://www.appliancepartspros.com/repair-help/general-electric-refrigerator-gsl25jftabs-repair/gsl25jftabs-frost-buildup.html

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_dc2f9e0a44104720

Posted on Jan 02, 2018

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Sea Breeze
  • 4655 Answers

SOURCE: Not Freezing, but cold

The thermostat should be a close circuit when requesting cold temps. or when asking the compressor to come on. The exterior surface on some freezers warm when asking for cold inside. Yours has a condenser coil on the back and that should warm when cooling. If compressor is runningit should be wrm if no freon has leaked from freezer somewhere.
The defrost timer should rotate clockwise during the day and give approx. 3 defrost daily or about every 8 hours. Until the thermostat is resolved and asks for a closed circuit the compressor will not come on. Unplug freezer from outlet,remove thermostat wires, then turn the thermostat to its coldest setting and check again. If no closed circuit the thermostat will need replaced first. Hope this has helped you, Sea Breeze

Posted on Nov 02, 2007

  • 1300 Answers

SOURCE: Unit not freezing , evaporator fan wont run

If this is a Bev-Air, don't think the door switch will control the fan. At the evap, there is a temp sensor called a fan delay. When unit goes into defrost mode, this warms up. Some also serve a dual purpose. It will terminate the defrost cycle at a certain temp., say 51 degrees or so, at the evap. Anyway, when unit comes out of defrost, it keeps the fan off so it allows the evap to cool quicker and to prevent circulating warm air. This could be your problem. Not a hard fix but they can be a pain sometimes. Outside chance that the unit is low on refrigerant (freon). This will not let the evap get cold enough to trip the sensor back into position to turn the fan on. Good Luck. Restaurant Parts and More carry alot of Bev-Air stuff. 1-888-814-1110. Ask for Rick

Posted on Feb 09, 2009

  • 1300 Answers

SOURCE: Hoshizaki ice machine KM500-MAE not sending water to harvest

I would not change the pump. If it runs for 3-5 minutes and stops, it has to be a control. The control board runs the freeze cycle for the first 5 minutes. This prevent "Short Cycling" of the freeze cycle. The board looks at the float after the first 5 minutes for the proper water level but should not effect the pump. If the pump does not run in the wash mode, check out the "Power/ Wash" switch. I would start there before I go spending hundreds on pump motor or control board. You may be able to get by on a $20 fix! Do this and get back to me. We will get it going.

Good Luck

Posted on May 08, 2009

  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: GE Freezer Not Freezing

I am not an expert, but if the defrost heater is not working, then maybe when it was unpluged the coils didn't completly unthaw. If not, the freezer still will not cool properly.

Posted on Jun 09, 2009

projdoc
  • 2239 Answers

SOURCE: Hi! My kelvinator FN360 frost free freezer's motor

check your door seals. warm air leaking in can keep it from reaching it's temp. also, the condensation will collect on the evaporator coils causing them to freeze up. when they do, there is no air flow to cool the rest of the fridge, so the compressor will run constantly trying to reach the set temp. empty it out, thaw out the coils, and check your door seals for leaks. if it still happens, you might have a slow freon leak.

Posted on Nov 10, 2009

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1 Answer

Evaporator ice up and unit has a temp at 31F not going down in singles digits


Melt the iced up evaporator with a hairdryer for a temp. fix. The auto defrost system isn't working. I can't find diagrams of yours but here is basically how it works.

The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can't flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won't turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass(disconnect the two wires plugged into it and twist them together) the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it's bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it's in the defrost mode.

If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.

Jan 09, 2011 | Traulsen RLT232NUTHHS Commercial Freezer

1 Answer

Ice up on the coil


DEFROST PROBLEM The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.
If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.
If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm. You can also bypass(disconnect the two wires plugged into it and twist them together) the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.
The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.
If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.
If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.

Jul 20, 2010 | Hoshizaki 48.5 cu. ft. / 1373 liter...

1 Answer

Side by side freezer frost in the back and food thawed out....the freezer is a 9 and fridge 5...What should i do? it is a couple of years old...


The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass(disconnect the two wires plugged into it and twist them together) the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.

If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others. You can post your model number into one of several appliance parts sites on the internet and search for defrost components to find your parts.

Jun 13, 2010 | Freezers

2 Answers

Hi! My kelvinator FN360 frost free freezer's motor is running all the time and it is not freezing inside properly.Occasionally, there is a pop coming from the freezer (most of the items are frozen though)...


check your door seals. warm air leaking in can keep it from reaching it's temp. also, the condensation will collect on the evaporator coils causing them to freeze up. when they do, there is no air flow to cool the rest of the fridge, so the compressor will run constantly trying to reach the set temp. empty it out, thaw out the coils, and check your door seals for leaks. if it still happens, you might have a slow freon leak.

Nov 10, 2009 | Freezers

1 Answer

Freezer won't freeze



If the evaporator coils behind the back panel of the freezer are icing up because of auto defrost failure that will stop the circulation of cold air and eventually affect the freezer too.
The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.

If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.

Nov 08, 2009 | Frigidaire Freezers

1 Answer

Freezer is cold, but not freezing stuff...


The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.

If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.

Oct 11, 2009 | Freezers

1 Answer

Freezer in side by side isn't freezing, but the other part is OK. What to do?


The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.

If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.

If you need help finding your model number see here> http://www.appliancepartspros.com/modelnumber_locator.aspx

To locate your timer, motherboard, control or adaptive defrost control , enter your model number and search for the part or post back on Fixya.
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action?psid=26129238&sid=PSx20071217x00001a

Oct 04, 2009 | Freezers

1 Answer

501f freezer ices up the evaporator. After defrosting it works well until it ices up again.


Could be a couple of things. First measure the resistance of the defrost heater that is mounted on the evaporator coil in freezer compartment. Make sure to disconnect the power from freezer first. The disconnect the defrost heater and measure with ohm meter. It should measure in the 20 ohm range. If it measures as "open" replace the coil.

Next suspect is the defrost timer mounted in the front of the compressor compartment. If the heater coil is OK, I'd just replace the timer. It is tough to test.

Finally, there is a defrost termination sensor mounted on the top of the defrost heater that shuts off the defrost heater when it reaches a high temperature. If the coil tests OK, and you are going to replace the timer, you may want to replace the sensor too. It is awkward to test, the temperature of the sensor needs to be be below room temperature to close. The cost of the sensor is low enough that you may not want to replace the timer, then test the system, and then have to go back in to replace the sensor later.

Jun 13, 2009 | Freezers

1 Answer

I have an older commercial upright Hobart freezer. The freezer seems to operate fine, cycling but always returning the compartment to zero degrees, until all of a sudden the temperature went up, well...


In most cases, an evap that freezes up is either an air flow problem or no defrost cycle. Older Hobarts have mechanical defrost time clocks. It could be locked up i.e., not running so no defrost cycle.
It could be coming out of defrost too early because the sensor that monitors the evap temp is not working properly.
The door could not be closing. If left cracked open, it will freeze up every time as unit never hits temp., keeps unit running. Warm air is seeping in and the moisture freezes on evap.
Lastly, the defrost heater(s) may not be working. Burned out, shorted, broken wire, etc.

Good luck and hope this helps.

Mar 28, 2009 | Victory Commercial Freezer VSF-3

1 Answer

GE Freezer Not Freezing


I am not an expert, but if the defrost heater is not working, then maybe when it was unpluged the coils didn't completly unthaw. If not, the freezer still will not cool properly.

Mar 25, 2009 | GE 13.7 cu. ft. General Electric Upright...

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