Drain pan full

Twice in 2 months, new installation. What do those 2 occurrences have in common? Would be nice to know.
Pour some water into the pan. If it drains then I suspect no trap on the drain line. If the air handler never turns off the partial pressure without a trap prevents outward water flow.

GET NEW GASKET AND FILTER FOR TRANNY ALONG WITH THE FLUID (BEFORE YOU BEGINE)
GET A LARGE FLAT DRAIN PAN.
PUT CAR UP ON 4 JACK STANDS.
place drain pan under tranny pan.
undo tranny pan screws - allow one corner to hang lower than the other corner (to allow fluid to drain) slowly remove them all.
Its messy! empty tranny pan into drain pan. set tranny pan to the side. undo the filter clamp, carefully remove the filter - set into the drain pan, remove the gasket around the tranny body/tranny pan.
Clean tranny block surface with clean cloth. install new filter, install clamp tightly. Clean tranny pan, place gasket onto pan and then reinstall tranny pan. (this only change the fluid in the tranny body and pan) If you wan the fluid out of the torque convertor you have pull the pan under the torque convertor and turn the convertor so you can get at the drain plug. Allow fluid to drain into drain pan. Reinstall drain plug and pan. (you will need a lot of fluid) Check manual for qty. Place car back on to ground/floor. Refill tranny through filler tube. Do not start the engine until oil is at full mark, and when you do start it do not all it to run for than 4 minutes - stop and add more fluid and check full mark again (repeat until no longer sinks below full mark. gently test drive around you block -- come back and check level while engine running. Top up if needed.
Siphon out excess above full mark. Test drive around 3 block,
come back check full mark. Because the torque convertor was emptied it can take a while to get all the air out it.

Serial numbers are visible on equipment where you see a permanently attached tag.
The tag will also give model number, motor amps, and other information.
Should say serial number or ser. no.

You need to find out if your drain has an out let outside and vacuum it out with a wet/dry vac. Otherwise you will have to cut the drain line inside and vacuum it out there, The ac supply houses sell a twist and turn clean-out tee that makes it easier to clean your drains.

sounds like the unit needs to be elevated and leveled.

The plastic drain pan has alternate drain connections, one for primary and one for secondary(backup drain). Make sure the proper outlet is being used for primary(the one with complete hole opening)drain. Another problem may be a cracked drain pan. If a Electric heating system with pull through coil then it will need a drip guard installed.
*Make sure all unused connections are capped off.

All you need to buy is a drain pan. Although depending on how your evap coil is encased you may have to pull the evap to get the drain pan in.

If the drip pan switch is shutting the unit down , this means you have a condensate drain issue. Be careful about wiring around any safety switch, especially if the furnace is in the attic or on a second floor. You could have water dripping on the ceiling. The drip pan switch is a safety switch. The best thing to do would be to inspect the furnace. The pan is underneath it. Look inside the pan if you can. If it is full of water, use a shop vac and vac the water out of the pan. If there is no water, you can locate the safety switch, take the two wires loose from it and just wire them together. Caution: This will be wiring around the condensate safety switch that could cause water to leak on the ceiling or floor depending where the furnace is. Don't go too long without getting someone out to clean the condensate drain out.

If you have a shop vac (wet vac) I suggest finding the drain outlet and sucking the restriction out. However if you don't then you need to open the air handler (coil) and pour about a cup of Bleach, not drain cleaner in to the coil drain pan. The restriction is likely in the trap ( U shaped piece of pvc). Good luck!

Your furnace is more than 90% efficient and extracting so much heat from the gas that it condenses instead of blowing out steam. This is good! Figure that for every dollar you spend on fuel, you are getting back 90+ cents back in heat. Compare that to the typical units that only get 70 - 80 cents back in heat.

Yes you should drain your condensate to a proper drain via gravity or a condensation pump. I would recommend you treat the condensate first with a acid neutralizer prior to draining in municipal drains due to it's high content of sulfuric acid. You can purchase these filter type neutralizers on the net or at a good heating wholesaler.