DU1100xtpt6 stopped working - blinking clean light. Reapir tech says needs new logic board and heating element. Says logic board is under warrenty... can I get board from whirpool with out tech? Where I can buy correct heater? thanks!

Is the heating element working? did you check it for continuity.

Replace it.

Heat circuit problem ohm out the thermistor another way to check clamp an amprobe around wire leading to heating element start machine about 10-15 in should have an amp draw but with 7 blinks doubt if you will get one don't know hoe good you are with a meter as a tech I check the element and thermistor at the control to ensure components and wiring are good but the test points are so small it's easier with needle point test leads also make sure one of the terminals has not burned of the element really hard to explain to a DIYer how to perform all the test procedures there should be a tech sheet on the bottom panel under the dish washer

http://www.jordansmanuals.com/ServiceManuals/FP/Dishwasher/DD605/DD605%20Parts%20Manual.pdf

Read this manual it may help. Obviously the Tech had no idea ?

That blinking light is trying to tell you that there is something wrong with your dishwasher. Watch that blinking light.... Does it blink 7 times, pauses, and repeats? Or does it blink 3 times (or some other number). The most common problem is 7 blinks which means "water not heating error". This could be caused by a bad heating element, a bad thermal cutoff or thermostat, a bad controller, or a problem with the door latch and/or switches. Usually there is a tech-data sheet located on the other side of the toe-kick panel which will explain the meaning of the varius blink codes, but you might still need to call a technician to fix the problem. Don't forget to put that tech data sheet back so he can find it and use it to fix your dishwasher!

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/ronald_e6b9572cebe3ad27

I don't know if this will help. I had to work on Fisher & Paykel two draw dishwasher. The one problem was one draw would work but the other wouldn't. There is one board for each draw and one board in the base. The board in the base seem to be the power supply for the rest of the machine. I don't remember the model number and it has been years ago. Getting to the boards was not easy.
I did the swap the two draw boards and the problem didn't move. So whatever the problem was it was in the draw. I found Fisher & Paykel had design the heating element as a resistor to drop the 110 VAC down to a voltage the logic/controller board can use turn to Dc voltage to run board. The problem I found was the heating element had opened. There was no power to run the board. Later there was also a cable problem the confounded the repairman. He had to replace the draw harness.
My really big problem is the heating was on the ground side of the logic/controller board. The logic/controller board was on the 110 VAC side. So that if the heating element opened the logic/controller board would be floating up to 110 VAC. So any meter measurement on the board show 110 VAC. Even touching any part of the board and any part of washer you can get zapped. So be careful. It should the other way around so the board is at the ground side and heating element on the high side. If the heat element opened there would be no power to the board would be at ground level and no shock problem.

you need to reset the board..take off kickplate and there is a tech sheet.. this explains , which programs to push within so many seconds to reset board....

than either replace heater sensor or element.
Give me model number pls

QuietGuard3: Clean light flashing 7 times? Press Heated Dry, press Normal Wash, then press Heated Dry again and press Normal Wash again (that's 4 button-presses) and that should fix it.

hazman, depending on your serial number, this model has a bunch of service issues. Everything from the motor rework to the heating element. Sounds like your issue has to do with the heating element. If the dishwasher does not detect a 4 degrees temp. rise in the water in will go into this fault. They have redesigned the board to bypass this fault in later models. Since I don't have a serial number I can't tell if you have one of the affected models, but I assume so. I would call Whirlpool and inquire about any service flashes they have on this dishwasher, you may be covered. Otherwise you would have to do some tests to determine the cause, starting with the heating element. I believe you can clear the fault by pressing these keys in this order: high temp-air dry-high temp-air dry. four key presses...this should put it in the automatic test mode. Let it do it's thing and the fault should clear. For more info on your dishwasher there should be a tech sheet behind the bottom toe panel....Catriver..post back.