How to wire

You talking about a fuel tank pressure sensor?
It has three wire connector, wire colors, gray--dark green---black.
There are safety issues working under a vehicle, safety is your responsibility.

Here's a link to your sensor location. Where is the camshaft position sensor located for 1999 3 2L V6 Isuzu Rodeo

Moving the wires and making the relays work would point to a faulty connection in the fuse box area or something in the harness.
I would want to know if the relays are missing power or ground signals.

The best I can do is tell you how a 3 way and a 4 way switching circuit works, once you understand that all you have to do is throw in the dimmer (note: you can only have one dimmer in a circuit, the rest of the switches must be simple on and off switches). I did some research on the dimmers you purchased to use, and it claims that the accessory dimmers can be used along with the MIRELV's as you have said but in my experience when you try to do something like that, one dimmer would have to know what the other two are doing, and that is not happening, and unless the current is electronically controlled on the whole circuit by each dimmer, you'll never get all three dimmers to work.. So lets see if we can get it wired properly and get it to work, if not you will have to try using one dimmer and two regular switches and see if it resolves your problem. In every four way circuit there is at least 2 three way switching devices, one at the beginning of the circuit where the power comes in and one at the end of the circuit where the power goes out to the lights. You can have numerous 4 way devices in the middle of the two three way devices. So let start at the first 3 way device, which will have three terminals one it. Every three way switching device has whats called a common terminal, this is where your incoming power attaches. Then you have 2 "traveling" terminals where your traveling wires will connect (called this because your power will travel to or communicate with your four way switch through these wires (note: you cannot mix these wires up or your circuit will not work). Order doesn't matter at the three way, but at the four way you need to keep them straight; there are four terminals on your four way switch designed to pass the current along that you fed it from the three way. The are two types of four way terminals, some times incoming wires go on top or bottom terminals, sometimes on left or right side. Either way if incoming wires are on top and you have red wire on one side and black on the other when power leaves at the bottom you keep the colors on the same side (Note: all these concept apply if your dimmers have pigtail wires to attach the wires to as well). And once you get to you final three way switch you want to keep the traveling wire colors the same as the terminals on the first three way switch. The power will leave this last switch and go out to your lights through the common terminal. If your dimmers happen no to work, remove two devices and replace with two normal switches, just make sure they are three way or four way switches as needed (remember four ways go in the middle of two three ways). Three way switching and four way switching is very confusing, and I know the Lutron company won't try to explain how things work, just take your time with it.

If the power originates at the location of the light (or other item being switched) you need a 3-core cable from there to to each switch location.
If the power originates at one of the switch locations you need a 2-core cable from there to the fixture and a 3-core cable to the other switch location. (If the cable to the second switch location is routed through the junction box at the fixture then you only need 4 cores from the first switch to the junction box--three switch wires and the neutral wire for the fixture.)
In all cases described above the ground (earth) wire is separate and not included in the count.

Battery Constant 12v+ Positive Wire (+): Black/Orange And Red/White
Battery Constant 12v+ Positive Wire Location: Ignition Switch Harness
Starter Positive Wire (+): Yellow
Starter Positive Wire Location: Ignition Switch Harness
Ignition Positive Wire (+): Blue (16 Gauge)
Ignition Positive Wire Location: Ignition Switch Harness
Second Ignition Positive Wire (+): Yellow/Red
Second Ignition Positive Wire Location: Ignition Switch Harness
Accessory Positive Wire (+): Blue (10 Gauge)
Accessory Positive Wire Location: Ignition Switch Harness
Second Accessory Positive Wire (+): Orange
Second Accessory Positive Wire Location: Ignition Switch Harness
Parking Light Positive Wire (+): Black/Yellow
Parking Light Positive Wire Location: At Headlight Switch
Power Door Lock Positive Wire (+): Orange/Violet
Power Door Lock Positive Wire Location: In Drivers Kick Panel, White 6-Pin
Power Door Unlock Positive Wire (+): Pink/Violet
Power Door Unlock Positive Wire Location: In Drivers Kick Panel, White 12-Pin
Door Trigger Negative Wire (-): Yellow
Door Trigger Negative Wire Location: At Headlight Switch
Domelight Supervision Wire: Use Door Trigger (Requires Relay)
Domelight Supervision Wire Location: N/A
Horn Negative Wire (-): Black/Red
Horn Negative Wire Location: At Steering Column Harness
Tachometer Wire Negative Wire (-): Gray
Tachometer Wire Negative Wire Location: At PCM, Connector 1, Pin A7. The PCM (powertrain control module) is located on the firewall next to the wiper motor.
Brake Light Positive Wire (+): White/Tan
Brake Light Positive Wire Location: At Switch Above Brake Pedal
Factory Alarm Disarm Wire (-): Black/Orange (To disarm requires a (-) negative through a 1565 ohm resistor and an extra relay to connect.)
Factory Alarm Disarm Wire Location: In Drivers Kick Panel, White 12 Pin Plug
Factory Anti-Theft System: N/A
Factory Anti-Theft System Location: N/A

ok, what I meant was is it a live wire. Assuming it is and setting it aside, The other three must be leaving the switch. Hot in and three out for different speeds. The speeds are controlled downstrean on each wire either by resistors or motor design. The fan motor(s) are grounded at their mounting locations. So, touch the hot wire to each of the others one at a time to confirm. Then, turn the switch to low and insert the hot wire into a terminal until the one that that turns the fan on is found. Turn the switch off to confirm control and then turn switch to confirm control of the other two speeds. No need to worry about shorting anything, The ground would be your only fear and it's far remote. Good luck

There are three bolts: tensioner bolt on bottom two bolts on top and they are tough; three wires: ground, power, and harness.
Disconnect negative battery cable, remove all wires from alternator, remove drive belt. Locate all bolts: remove tensioner bolt and mounting bolts, then remove alternator from below. It comes off easier than it goes back on.
Install is reverse order of removal. be sure to label wires for easier replacement.
This videoclip might help you and you can find for more

Good Luck

I had the same inquery at my shop today on a Cummins hoist #6832. I have attached a PDF and am pretty sure this is how it goes. Hope this helps. Spent a good afternoon researching this one.

F10 is a Runaway temperature issue.
There are three possible scenarios:
1. The temperature sensor has failed.
2. The electronic control has failed
OR
3. The connector between the temperature sensor and the electronic control has failed.

The connector can be troublesome. The first thing to do is eliminate this potential issue.

• Remove the back panel.
• Locate the temperature sensor plug
  
• Cut the plug off the temperature sensor wires and the corresponding electronic control wires
  
• Using ceramic wire nuts, secure each temperature sensor wire to the corresponding electronic control wire.
  

If you need further assistance, let me know

Regards;

reg501

The FixYa Team.....