My dryer runs...but without heat
Heating element is bad unplug machine access the heating element it should have a break in the coil if so twist the coil back together gently though put it back in and try it i didi it to minr 6 years ago and no problems and you save a ton of money.
This would probably work, but I would not recommend it for 2 reasons:
1. safety reasons. You could cause an arc or an overheat with serious consequences.
2. if one section of the coil broke, the rest is probably not in great shape either (though your experience would indicate that this is not always the case).
With regard to saving money/time, to implement this solution you would have to do all the work required to replace the heating element coil, and if you just buy the coil (called a re-string kit) for the dryer for $25.00, the restringing only takes about 15 minutes, and you know you have a new coil and a safe repair.
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The other solution is right. It could be a number of things. In my case it was the heating element. My solution is below - the most important thing to do is to get the service manual at the link below and use the diagnostic flowcharts to test the various components related to the heating element (fuses, relays, the element itself) to isolate the problem.
Fixed this myself. - it was the heating element.
Downloaded the service manual from this linkhttps://docs.google.com/file/d/0B5If-wTgYWH5ZmRhODliYjktYjZmZC00OTdkLTk1MDQtZDA1YWQ1ZjFjMTI3/edit?hl=en&pli=1
It has the error codes, but more importantly, it has wiring diagrams, instructions for taking the dryer apart, and troubleshooting flowcharts. I followed the flowchart for "dryer does not heat, but motor runs". The whole process probably took one hour. Dis-assembly, repair, and re-assembly probably took another 1-2 hours, but some of that was due to an initial bad re-stringing job (see below).
To follow the flowcharts, you will need a multimeter or an ohmmeter and a voltmeter, You will need a medium philips head screwdriver to get the dryer apart. Note that when you are testing voltage drop (google testing voltage drop if you don't know what this is) across the terminals of the high-limit thermostat on the heating element housing, you need to be careful not to touch the terminal block where the power cord enters the Dryer at the same time you are physically touching the cabinet or you may get a strong shock (trust me!). By the way - you should check the chamber in the dorr below the lint trap before reassembly...mine had a huge wad of lint in it.
When I completed the flowchart the result was"bad heating element", and when I took out the drum and tested continuity through the heating element, there was none. When I touched the element,, it was brittle and broke.
You can buy a replacement unit with the heat shield (metal pan that it sits in) and coil for about $60-$70, or just the coil for about $25. You may have to call around to find a parts place with either item in stock. When I saw how the coil was attached (very simple). I opted for the coil only (called a "restring") as it was cheaper and less work to replace. Got it locally for $25. Took about 10 minutes to put it in and then about 20 minutes to put the dyer back together (not counting my fumbling with the bad restringing job.. Follow the directions int the package with the coil for how to string the coil on the insulating clips. I did not realize there *were* instructions, and just tossed it on. When I put the drum back in and tested it, I had an awful screeching friction noise. I eventually realized that the gap between the drum and the coil is pretty small, and I had a bulge in one section of the coil; following the instructions probably would have avoided this. I just redistributed the coil over the insulating clips and twisted a few sections in tthe direction of the coiling (clockwise?) until everything appeared flat. Then the noise went Away and I dried my first load of laundry in 2 days. Good luck!
If there is no heat at all? either heating element bad, heat sensor bad, or not getting 220 volts (dryer can run on 110volts, breaker half on!)
SOURCE: electric whirlpool dryer turns & heats but does not dry
the flames on the dryer come on for a couple of minutes and then shut off then comes back on about 5 min. later,. the cloths don't get dry . this goes on the whole time the dryers running, take 2hours to dry a load of cloths
SOURCE: dryer runs, no heat Whirlpool duet 9250
Most likely, it is the thermostat which controls the heating element. The Bios Thermostat will have two wires connected to a round disc which has a flange and screw holes to hold it next to the blower vent or the center of the drum. Use an ohm meter to see if it open or take it to an appliance parts store to have them check it for you. You may also see a thermal fuse and a high temperature cut-off thermostat which should not read open with an ohm meter. Any open thermostat will prevent the heater element from turning on. The part should be about $25.00.
SOURCE: 80 series kenmore electric dryer runs but no heat
This could be the heating element or several other parts more likely the thermal fuse. There is a video on troubleshooting a similar model at www.appliancehelponline.com/servicemanual.html this will walk you thru troubleshooting your problem.
Hi,
If you are having problems with your
gas dryer not heating the most common problem is that the ignitor
goes bad. Even though it glows sometimes it is still not working
properly.
if
you dryer is gas check out this gas
no heat
tip....
If you have an electric dryer, you can
have many different things that can go wrong causing the dryer not to
heat.
check
out this electric
no heat
tip...
heatman101
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