Power connector cable for this unit, where can I buy one

https://www.amazon.com/inch-Power-Over-Ethernet-Cable/dp/B005H4GX1E


Amazon com 6 inch Power Over Ethernet PoE Cable 2 pcs set 2 Pair Power and...

If your power cable has a usb connector on it that unplugs from the cigarette lighter plug then you use that. If not then you'll have to get a usb cable with the correct end on it to match your GPS unit.

If you are using the Bose ToneMatch cable (black cable - the connectors are round barrels with square connectors). Then this should work fine.


If it doesn't then try a different cable. You can use a network Cat-5 cable.
Note - if you are connecting to an L1® Model I or L1® classic then you need an T1 Power Supply.

T1 ToneMatch Audio Engine power supply

To my knowledge, the Power Supply used is just the common ATX form factor design.

Approximately 6 Inches Wide, 5-1/2 Inches Long, and 3-1/2 Inches Tall.

Needs these power cables;

A) 24-pin ATX main power cable
Newer power supply's come with a 20 + 4-pin ATX main power cable.

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#atxmain20plus4

That is so the power supply can be used on a motherboard, that needs a 20-pin, OR a 24-pin ATX main power cable.

B) 4-pin ATX +12 Volt power cable.
Often referred to as an ATX12V power cable.

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#atx12v4

[Note color of power cable connectors does NOT matter ]

Note the Lock on the side of the power cable's connector, and matching Tab on the motherboard connector.
The 20 + 4-pin ATX main power cable, and matching motherboard connector; has this type of Lock/Tab also.


C) Needs at least 2 SATA power cables.
The Harddrive is a SATA unit, and I believe the optical drive (CD/DVD drive) is too.

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#sata

Often has a Lock on the connector. Press to release when installing, or removing.

D) Should have at least two 4-pin (Standard) Peripheral power cables.
Misnomered as 'Molex',

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#peripheral

E) Needs one 4-pin (Small) Peripheral power cable, for the Card Reader.

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#floppy

Also needs 300 Watts.
A Power Supply like this one would work,

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=899123&CatId=1079

For additional questions please post in a Comment.
Regards,
joecoolvette

Not a problem, Dawn.

HP Support > Pavilion a1514n desktop computer > Main page,

http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/product?product=3207937&lc=en&cc=us&dlc=en&lang=en&cc=us

Product information > Product specifications > Motherboard specifications, RC410-M (Asterope 2)

http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?docname=c00714533&tmp_task=prodinfoCategory&cc=us&dlc=en&lang=en&lc=en&product=3207937

Scroll down to the motherboard illustration, and motherboard photo under it.

A) 24-pin ATX main power cable:

Illustration:
Look to the right of the Ram Memory slots, DIMM 1 and DIMM 2.
Look at the rectangle with ATXPWR1

Scroll down a little to the motherboard photo.
To the right of the black Ram Memory slots, with the white Locks on each end, is the 24-pin ATX main power cable connector on the motherboard.

Whitish connector with 24 socket holes. Two columns of 10 socket holes.
This is an example of an average 24-pin ATX main power cable, and it's respective connector on the motherboard,

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#atxmain24

[Note* Color of connectors does NOT matter ]

Note the power cable connector in the middle photo, and the photo to the far right with the power cable plugged into the motherboard.

Note the Lock on the side.
The Lock has a hooked end that goes over a tab, on the motherboard's connector.
The Lock operates like a see-saw on a playground.

Squeeze the top of the Lock in, to bring the hooked end away from the tab on the motherboard connector, when removing the power cable.
When the power cable is plugged into the motherboard correctly, and properly, the Lock will be locked over the tab.

B) 4-pin ATX +12 Volt power cable:

Illustration:
The Processor socket is represented by LGA775.
To the left of it is ATX12V

In the motherboard photo it is the square whitish 4-socket hole connector, to the bottom left corner of the Processor socket.

This is a general example of a 4-pin ATX +12 Volt power cable, and it's respective connector on the motherboard,

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#atx12v4

Note that it has a Lock also.

That's it for power cables that plug into the motherboard.

Product specifications specifies that the harddrive is a SATA unit.
It uses a SATA power cable from the Power Supply,

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#sata

Note that a SATA power cable's connector has 15-pins, and has the longer connector when compared to the SATA data cable.
The SATA data cable's connector has 7-pins.

Example of a SATA data cable, it's connector, and matching connector on the motherboard,

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:SATA_ports.jpg

Note the SATA data cable connector, and it's matching connector on the motherboard have an L-shape key.
So does the SATA power cable, and whatever it plugs into.
(Harddrive / Optical Drive )

This is an example of a 4-pin standard Peripheral power cable.
Has been misnomered as a 'Molex' power cable,

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#peripheral

IF, your SATA harddrive has a provision for a SATA power cable, AND a 4-pin Peripheral power cable, ONLY use just the SATA power cable.
Using both will burn up the SATA harddrive.
(Maybe not right away, but I assure you it WILL happen)

Do not use just a 4-pin Peripheral power cable on a SATA harddrive.
NOT enough power.

The Optical drive (DVD burner) is not stated whether it is a SATA unit, or IDE. (PATA)
If it is an IDE (PATA( unit it will use a 4-pin Peripheral power cable

It will also use a 40-pin flat ribbon data cable,

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parallel_ATA

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:PATA-cable.jpg

[May be 39 holes with 1 hole blocked off ]

CPU_FAN on the motherboard up above, and to the right of the Ram Memory slots, is where the Processor fan plugs into.

SYS_FAN below the processor socket, and to the right of ATX12V connector on motherboard, is for a computer case fan.

A computer case fan can also use a 4-pin standard Peripheral power cable, with an adapter cable, or may use a 4-pin small Peripheral power cable,

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#floppy

This power cable is also used for a Floppy Drive, and for newer computers is used on a Card Reader.

For additional questions please post in a Comment.

Regards,
joecoolvette

well that is catastrophic failure. have the motherboard replaced.

For one, I abhor Packard Bell, and the lack of support for it's users, of older computers.

If you don't support your computers, I say do not buy one from them.
(Oh, excuse me. For $$$$$$ they will)

Can't even find the specifications on the internet, (I do not own one), and Peckard Bell Support is of no help.

So let's do it another way.

What kind of cables connect to the Harddrive?

This will tell us if it is an IDE unit, or a SATA unit.

An IDE, (Also known as PATA), harddrive uses a flat ribbon cable, for it's data cable,

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parallel_ATA

Click on the photo all the way to the upper right. Shows a blue connector on a grayish flat cable.

The power cable for an IDE (PATA) harddrive, is a 4-pin standard Peripheral power cable. Shown here,

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#peripheral

Note the harddrive shown in the photos, is an IDE harddrive.


If it is a SATA unit, it will use a SATA power cable.
Has 15 contact pins in the connector.

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#sata

The SATA power cable has an L connection on the inside, to match the L connection on the back of the harddrive.

Same with a SATA data cable, only it is shorter in width, and has 7 contact pins,

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:SATA_ports.jpg

Also look at the label of the harddrive, and state what you see.
Is it a Seagate harddrive? What is the size? 250GB?

Smaller? Larger?

Once we find this info out, I can recommend harddrives.

Be aware that the Windows operating system was on that harddrive.
If you install a new harddrive, it won't have Windows on it.

You will need to obtain a genuine copy of Windows, and install it.

Post back in a Comment.

Regards,
joecoolvette

Bad Power Supply. Weak voltage power rail.

[There are three main voltages produced by the Dimension 4550's Power Supply.
1) 3.3 Volts
2) 5 Volts
3) 12 Volts ]

The Power On button LED functions as a diagnostic light also.

Dell Support > Dimension 4550 > Service Manual,

http://support.dell.com/support/edocs/systems/dim4550/

Left-click on Solving Problems, then click on Power Problems

The Power Supply is just an ATX form factor version. The common Power Supply form factor used in MANY desktop computers.
(ATX form factor for a Power Supply refers to the size, and shape of the Power Supply's case.
Approximately 6 inches Wide, 5.5 inches Long, and 3-1/2 inches Tall)

HOWEVER, (Not shouting), there is an area of concern, should you try a Power Supply you may have available for a test, or purchase one.

It involves the wiring of the 20-pin ATX main power cable. More specifically the power cable's connector.

To explain view the standard wiring, set for a 20-pin ATX main power cable's connector,

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#atxmain20

Looking at the photo to the far right, observe the color code of the wires, going down into the socket holes of the connector.

Look at the Lock tab on the side of the connector. This will help you orient the color code of the wires, and their placement in the socket holes, to the chart below the photos.

The connector on the end of the 20-pin ATX main power cable, is a Male connector.
Where the wires go into the connector, is the Back of the connector.
In the middle photo you can see the Front of the connector.

The wires going down into the ATX main power cable's connector, end in a female metal terminal.
The connector on the motherboard, (Shown in the photo to the Left), has Pins.
The metal female terminals go over the Pins.

The pins are numbered. The color code of the wires match up to the pins.
This is shown in the chart.

Now look at Dell Support > Dimension 4550 > Technical Overview > DC Power Connectors >
DC Power Connector P1

http://support.dell.com/support/edocs/systems/dim4550/techov.htm#1101897

The illustration may not be accurate. You'll have to compare since you have the computer, and Power Supply in front of you.

For a time period Dell was a Proprietary manufacturer.
Meaning they wanted THEIR parts used on THEIR computers, and ONLY THEIR parts.
They had the motherboard manufacturers make motherboards according to their specs.

One of the specifications was that the pins would be CHANGED around, in the motherboard connector for the ATX main power cable.

They also had Power Supply manufacturers make the ATX power cable to their specifications.

This means if a user bought an aftermarket Power Supply, the color code of the wires in the ATX main power cable would Not match.

Many users did buy an aftermarket Power Supply, and installed it.
Burnt motherboards, fried Processors, and graphics cards, resulted.

Orange wires are 3.3 Volts
Red wires are 5 Volts
Yellow wires are 12 Volts.
Black wires are Ground wires.

Guess what happens when you plug a 12 Volt wire into where a 3.3 Volt, or 5 Volt, or Ground wire is supposed to Be?
POOF!

My suggestion would be to look for a Power Supply that is an ATX form factor, is KNOWN to be good, and is compatible, for a test unit.
You, or someone you know may have upgraded to a better computer, and you may be able to borrow the Power Supply for a test unit.

Compatible:
Has the Correct power cables.
1) 20-pin ATX main power cable, OR a 20/24-pin ATX main power cable.
(20-pin connector that has an additional connector with 4 pins. Just use the 20-pin)

2) 4-pin ATX +12 Volt power cable. (Also referred to as P4 MB, and P4 ATX 12V)

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#atx12v4

(Power for the Processor)

3) Enough standard 4-pin Peripheral power cables.
(Misnomered as Molex)

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#peripheral

(Power for the IDE Harddrive, and Optical drive/s)

Also:
You can change the power wires around in the ATX main power cable's connector.
Change them around, in an aftermarket Power Supply's ATX main power cable's connector.

Want to know how post in a Comment.

The flat antenna flex cable is attached to the main PCB and receiver board by connectors. The top of each connector has a flap, which you pry up with a very small screw driver. This allows you to slide the cable out. To put it back in, you slide the cable into the connector and push the flap down on the connector to lock it in place. The cable will not go back in unless you lift the flap. Trying to insert it into the connector without lifting the flat probably caused the cable to flex and crack.

You're best bet is to buy an AS-IS unit on eBay that is dead or has a defective LCD screen and use it for parts to fix yours. Stay away from any units that claim to have antenna problem. I know you can buy replacement screens for the Nuvi on eBay but I haven't seen replacement flex cables.

Please let me know if I can be of further assistance to you.

Good Luck!
- Jim

It sounds like your power source module is defective. I suggest you try to replace it from one your might find at a second hand store. Look on the back side of the power source device. It should list the output voltage (usually DC or direct current as opposed to AC or alternating current) and also lists the current in amps that it produces. Also inspect the connector to your TV so you can try to match the connector when you buy a replacement. Armed with that information (output voltage and current ability from the power source) pick through the modules you find at a second hand store. Make sure the voltage exactly matches. You can also purchase a power module which can produce more amps of current, but never less. If you are successful in finding a match, buy it - but you may need to cut off the old connector and some of the wire that plugged into your tv so that you can reuse the connector on the used unit you just bought. You will need to splice the old wires from the tv connector to the wires coming out of the used power unit. Assuming the connector on the used unit you purchased did not match your tv connector, you will also need to cut off the connector and splice the tv connector to the wires coming out of the used power unit you just bought. If this is too complicated, go to the manufacturer and try to buy a replacement or look at other places like eBay for a matching power unit to the original TV unit.

There is a possibility your TV itself has a short and is defective, although from you comments I think it is more likely you power source unit.