Fires but won't keep running

For an internal combustion engine to run, it needs fuel, air, spark and compression. Since it ran last year it is safe to assume you have good compression. Also, you can assume it has air if it was professionally serviced last fall and was running ok when you put it away.. You have spark so that leaves fuel. The first thing to check is fuel supply. If there is a fuel shutoff valve on the fuel tank or the fuel line leading to the carburetor check to see if it is ON. If the tank has gas and the valve is open or non-existent, then remove the air cleaner and spray a quick shot of starting fluid into the carburetor with the choke open and try starting it again. If it fires but quits, it is a fuel delivery problem. Primary suspect is a plugged main jet in the carburetor from sitting over the winter with oxygenated fuel in it. That is the same type of fuel you put in your car. It oxidizes metals. The jet can get restricted from oxidation (like rust). If that is the case the carb needs to be cleaned professionally. Use non-oxidized fuel in the future and run the engine dry for storage. Keep no more thn a months worth of gas on hand. Hope that helps.

Check the gears on the distributor.

If the resistor bypass doesn't solve it, another remedy could be a plug-in type engine block heater- I mean plug into household current. It keeps the engine coolant warm in the block. Every other car here in Montana uses one-works great for those below zero nights. When the wife pulls into work, just run an extension line and keep the car plugged in till time to go. Other than that, IDK, sounds like you've covered it pretty well as far as solutions.

I'm sorry but you have this posted in the wrong product category. Please re-post the question in the proper category This is the car and truck problem category

If the engine fires up for a second or two with starting fluid then the fuel pump is weak.I would check the fuel pressure and if its not within the specs then replace the pump and filter.

if you can put fuel in throttle body and it runs. then it is not getting any fuel. check your fuel pump fuse and the relay, if ok, then you may have a bad fuel pump or a plugged up fuel filter. check filter and fuses first. good-day !!

Cecil,
I am curious why this repair was not covered under the warranty? This snow blower has a 2 year warranty from the manufacture.

Two things for you.
First, there has always been the "what came first, the chicken or the egg" issue over leaving fuel or draining the fuel from you snow blower. Half the experts say drain it, and the other half say leave it in.
Secondly, all of the current Cub Cadet, Craftsman, Troy-Bilt, Yard Machine, and Yardman snow blowers with the Powermore engine need to be treated differently than the old Techumseh or Briggs side-valve that you were used to.
The issue with your Powermore engine is actually today's ethanol fuel. If you leave the ethanol blends in your tank without a fuel stabilizer the alcohol separates from the gas. This alcohol then rises to the top of the tank and gets into the fuel lines. The fuel lines actually will soften. (I've seen the primer bulb actually melt on a few units)
If you drain the tank and run it dry the remaining fuel will "varnish" and/or dry out the carb.
I know a service manager that repairs a lot of these Powermore motors. Instead of replacing the carb, his techs actually take the carb off, soak it overnight in carb cleaner and then reinstall it. This is so common that he keeps a few clean carbs on the shelf and then just switches them out when a customer has a problem.
So how do you keep from getting those high repair bills? First, use fuel stabilizer ALL THE TIME! Mix Sta-Bil, Sea Foam, or Craftsman Fuel Stabilizer according to the directions on the bottle. Secondly, try not to use ethanol blended fuel. Especially try to fill the tank the last time you use it in the spring with non blended fuel. Third, When you put your snowblower away, fill it with stabilized fuel, start the motor and run it until warm. Then "fog" the carb with SeaFoam spray until it loads up and quits running. Put it away for the season. (If you don't know how to fog go to SeaFoam's website and read about doing this with the spray)
It will start next fall.
Feel free to ask me any other questions about your snow blower. Don't forget to rate this answer and you are welcome to leave a comment about it.

To winterize a Force outboard you should start the engine and remove the fuel line. Remove the air box and while the engine is running rev up the engine a bit and spray the fogging oil into the throat of each carberator when the engine is about to run out of fuel. keep spraying the fogging oil until you see thick smoke coming from the exhaust area. The exhaust comes out of the center of the prop. When you see the blue smoke then keep spraying and let off the throttle and choke the engine so it dies. Stabilize or get rid of your fuel in the fuel tank and you can let it sit like that for the winter. Leave the outboard in the down position so that any water will drain by gravity out of the prop. When you want to use it next spring just hook up fresh fuel, squeeze the fuel bulb and fire the engine up. It will smoke for a few seconds until that fogging oil burns out of there but it will be ready to run.